I've had this car since last year but it has been garaged waiting for me to get around to it. It was $600 from a girl so it was unmolested and clean except for the engine/transmission (dying trans and blown headgasket). i dunno if i introduced it too early but progress will be coming along definitely this month

i already pulled the engine and trans. i'm sourcing manual parts and i'm rebuilding the engine.

plans so far:

rebuild
p&p
evo III 16g
pte intercooler
megasquirt
mandrel bent exhaust with a borla muffler

i'll be machining and welding the piping and exhaust with my trusty miller. also i haven't decided on injectors or anything else. unfortunately i sold my turbo and intercooler from my vw project so i'll be getting them as i need them.

and pics of the car






more pics on my other comp. even though its not much to look at yet

Good luck on your project. Your lucky you have a garage dedicated to working on your car. If I had a place like that to work on my car I would eat and sleep there 24/7.

I plan on spending as much time as my children let me in my garage real soon. Can' forget as much time as the checkbook lets me spend.

DSM= Doesn't Start Monthly

yeah i def spend a LOT of time at the garage. i have a few cars going on so i'm always working. and all my friend's cars i work on too. i wish i got paid to do all that work because then i wouldn't have to have a real job

UPDATE:

my project changed a little

i'm just waiting on my new miller syncrowave to weld up everything to get it running.

new plans

--engine stuff
14b turbo
vortech fmu
custom dp (02 housing) and modified megan racing dp
3 inch magnaflow muffler
3 inch resonators
3 inch muffler
2 inch ic piping
prothane engine mounts
full engine rebuild and head goodies
msd ignition
2g intercooler
walbro hp 255 fuel pump
manual tranny swap
hks ssq bov
lots of extra stuff

--not engine stuff
kenwood headunit
volkswagen mkiv gauge pod
kenwood speakers

--and stuff i don't haven't picked up yet
snow performance water/alc injection
tein coils
asa ar1 rims

now for the pics------

manual swap done


rebuilt engine and new tranny in


new headunit and gauge cluster from mkiv jetta/golf. innovate air/fuel gauge not in yet


gauge housing made from old headunit


muffler. i'm really suprised how well it fits the eclipse's rear





reusing stock pistons for boost. thats what the water/alc injections is for

thats a clean looking car and that garage kicks ass! is it heated?

good luck with your build, i will be intoducing my latest secret project in about 2 weeks

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

I very lucky im moving to a new house with a 2 car garage.
Most houses in Hawaii only have car ports. Been stuck with a car port for 2 1/2 years.

We will build you bigger and stronger


Wake up and drive my ass... More like wake up and fix it.

If the opposite of Pro is Con
then the opposite of Progress is Congress

Stuck with a car-port. I WISH I had a car-port. lol

edit: Nice project, keep it coming.


http://talontimes.blogspot.com

99gs
95TSI

thanks

it not heated unfortunately. but i wear a quilted monkey suit while i was pulling the engine apart. for the welding and assembly though i'm gonna be using an electric heater. luckily this year its been fairly warm.

Are you planning to try the 14b on the stock manifold idea or do you have an aftermarket manifold for that thing? Reason I ask is I saw you mention the E316G set up and, while that's really popular in the 4G63 community these days, that manifold isn't working on a 420A.

Also, keep an eye on those stock pistons. Even with really good tuning, the stockers might only be good for about a year on 10psi through the HRC S16G. You won't be able to just stick it at 10psi with that turbo and assume you're safe. You'll have to do some homework on this project.

Looks like you've got things under control, though. Good luck and keep us posted.

so it'll rarely see full boost
(never)Or it will break.


sounds like you got your shit in order I dont understand going with stock internals with this setup.
the two things you should upgrade you leave stock.

for all the people in the cold did you know the difference between summer and winter in hawaii is 4 degrees 84 in the summer 80 in the winter.


IM A ASSHOLE yes but a warm one.

We will build you bigger and stronger


Wake up and drive my ass... More like wake up and fix it.

If the opposite of Pro is Con
then the opposite of Progress is Congress

i left it at stock compression for two reasons.

gas mileage. i don't want to worry about going HIGH boost and having to support that fuel system. and low compression means i'll have to keep the boost higher.

reliability/emissions. i want everything to remain fairly stock but have all these piggy back systems available so when i do turn the boost up it'll be ice cold fuel air so it can handle it but on the other side when i go to emissions or when i'm using it as a daily driver it'll only be seeing like 4-5 psi or less, whatever the wastegate is set to stock and it will wear as a stock engine.

besides. if i went with forged internals, i might as well go with another evo 3 16g. then i might as well get more fuel/standalone to support that power. then clutch, diff, axles, ect ect... then it doesn't pass emissions. i gotta cap it somewhere.

also i'm using a fairly mild clutch. i wanted to keep it driveable. of course the poly engine mounts are gonna rattle my teeth out.

you get the point. i wanted a fast/reliable/reasonable car.

you will all think i'm prolly nuts but i'm keeping the auto ecu to keep the 6500 rev limiter.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

oh no no i wrote it wrong. i was saying if i were to drive this car to work or classes i would be driving the car at the minimum boost. which is 4-5 psi. but the way i'm setting it up (say if i were to try it out at the track or for whatever reason want more power) i could set the boost controller so it'll boost higher. how high i couldn't tell you right now. when its running, broken in and tuned, i'll dyno it and see what i'm working with.

and by fast i meant fastER. haha it would take a bit more to make it fast

do any of you have experience with water alcohol injection?

it lowers intake temperatures more than 45-50 degrees to allow for much more boost than the engine could normally handle. that with the ic sprayer i should be pretty safe. that way i can keep ignition timing without worrying about knocking or predetonating.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Guys, remember awddynamite ran 16 psi for over a year on a stock engine. It can be done, it's all in the tuning of it.

Mike D
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

i was expecting to pay around $1000 for tuning on the dyno.

the people at swift motorsports are going to help me out.

here is the type of ic piping and downpipe and exhaust i'm planning on using.

just an interesting and cheap alternative to mandrel bends.

Take a picture of the inside of that for me, lol

Anywho's, good luck on the project, it's good to see someone take alternative routes. I don't know of many that have rebuilt their engines with stock pistons AND boosted it, though I'm sure if you called and asked nicely J&E or Arias could have "found" some stock compression forged pistons.

Another thing to consider that you haven't mentioned would be to fab up a cold air intake for that turbo, I forget the specific numbers but a 1 degree drop in intake temp equals like a 3 degree drop in charge temp or something, it's significant.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

haha you don't think theres good penetration? those welds are a bit small but they go all the way through.

also i think i will consider a cai. its only going to be for the summer in the nice weather so it might be a good idea.

heres the welding i did on the oil drain bung.



manifold cut and ready for mock up and fitting

alright I'm back. I was busy finishing my degree. I've been picking up parts to finish the car. I got all stainless steel piping and bends so I can make the downpipe and exhaust and intercooler piping. There is some fitment issues with the turbo so I'll be removing the passenger side radiator fan and either putting in some low profile flex-a-lite fans or making a shroud so only the driver one is needed.

I'm considering pulling the engine again and going evoIII 16g and forged internals and megasquirt and front mount. We'll see. I'm not too far into Installing everything yet. If the engine is pulled again, I'll be putting in a LSD. Pics will come shortly!

keep it up! you are living my dream!

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

that was beautiful dude, you even made me cry!!

i already beat you on the wideband



if i did get megasquirt i can tune it via my laptop right?

that way i tune it until it has perfect air/fuel and ignition ect. then i only pay for dyno pulls.

but would megasquirt pass emissions? i need this to be a street legal car that doesn't have a check engine light and will pass an obd-II test.

the car isn't registered right now so i need to have it inspected as soon as i get it running so i can get it on the road.

has anyone made a harness set-up that you could quick disconnect and swap management? if it is worth i think i might take a look at that. i'm keeping all my other emission components so i think i could make it happen.

maybe i might stop and think about pulling the engine and coordinating the engine bay a little different so i can do this.

if i do swap to forged internals i might as well go with some bigger injectors and get forged rods too.

i hate all these decisions i have to make. i really really want the car on the road since it's been more than a year so i need it to be streetable and passable.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

i think i'm going to add a second phase to this car.

i think i'm going to continue installing the engine and turbo with stock management for now. after the semester ends i think i'll pull the head and swap pistons/rods and swap the injectors/management and put in a fmic/evo III 16g.

sounds like a lot of work but i don't want to invest in all that right now while i'm still in classes since i don't have any time to do that work. i'll fab up the manifold and downpipe to fit the turbo and work out all the other support systems so when it comes to it, i'll just have to swap everything and change around the intercooler piping a little.

also i don't want to run a fmic until i swap the bumper to a 97-99 bass mouth so i have some more room to play with.

and one of the things i can do is have an easy swap for the ecu set-up. also i'll have the car emissions tested so i'll have another two years to play with a bigger set-up.

With MSnS, you will use your own laptop to tune. It can even be one of those $75 cheap-o laptops off eBay a lot of the time, so you don't have to have a top-o-the-line lappy to use this system.

For emissions, if you have the ECU disconnected from the injector harness, then you'll get a CEL for injector failure. I've heard of some people leaving the stock injectors connected to the stock harness and tucked away behind the intake manidfold so the ECU can still operate them. I don't know how their running dry will affect them, but it's an idea. The other alternative, and what I had done for my car when I was planning on running MSnS, was to source another injector harness from a parts car that I could wire into my MS harness. That way, I could swap the connection controlling the injectors; MS or ECU.

Emissions/inspection considerations include deciding where you will intall your secondary IAT and CLT sensors. I put my IAT into the hole where the EGR pipe enters the back of the intake manifold. Now I have about three months to find another damn EGR pipe and figure out how to bolt it back up to that location. (I can remove my IAT since I'm not running MSnS, but if you want to avoid this situation, you might want another location for this MS sensor. Besides, I hear flow at this location is less than ideal.)

The wideband is definitely the way to go. MSnS can be set up, as far as I remember, to adjust fuel delivery on the fly in order to achieve preset AFR values. Given temperature and altitude changes, this sounds like a good option to have. Give yourself some time to iron out your AFR and then begin to play with spark.

I think this would be a great place to get started. Get up into the engine management forum and start reading up on what people are doing. You'll pick it up pretty quick.

good advice. i think i'll take you up on that and see about megasquirt and get back to my original plans.

i bead blasted the oil pan and repainted. i was having a hard time deciding on a color so i picked "doo doo brown" like my gf says.




oh and i'm gonna have to relocate the innovate gauge somewhere else. i'm thinking of replacing the cigarette lighter with the gauge and putting another gauge in the pod.



the car is supporting itslef and the engine/tranny for the first time in 11 months

i hacked up the megan downpipe today. i have to flip it around a bit to add the 3 inch cat and the custom downpipe. i would have taken more pictures but my camera died as soon as i took this pic. haha so much for a $170 downpipe

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper
i bead blasted the oil pan and repainted. i was having a hard time deciding on a color so i picked "doo doo brown" like my gf says.

Jamie-
-AUTOMATIC turbo'd 95 Talon ESI@8psi (stock internals)14.0sec=1/4 mile

-2003 Mitsubishi Evo VIII

haha well i don't think anyone will copy me then.

nice job on the return fittings.. However I am worried about the placing of your drain. With it being that low, you will most likely see oil backing up in your drain line as the oil level in the pan is higher than where you placed the drain.

-97 GS (First project, 299 whp)(sold)
- 97 RS 2.6 last numbers: 306hp, 352tq @16psi (Dead, parted out)
- 99 GS OZ, Hahn Kit, 56k miles (Sold)
--------
- 00 Nissan Maxima GLE (Daily Driver)
- 02 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro

Joe
MFG Racing

95 GS
MSnS
FP3052 coming soon.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1107

http://www.cardomain.com/id/95turbogs

the marker board is a good idea, I like that. Nice progress. What model Tig do you have? I have been looking into a Dynasty 200 from Miller for next year.

Terry

off topic...but...

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

96 Black ESi
91 Red TSI AWD (RIP)
02 WRX


"turnin wrenches for nine hours in the pouring rain, just to get the beast up and running again"

Aerospace Certified TIG welder for Precision Castparts in Portland, OR.

JoshSpair.com

i have a syncrowave 200. between that and the auto-dark miller helmet its a breeze to weld. it does ac, dc, aluminum, steel, titanium, stainless, magnesium(?), and anything else i get my hands on. it has voltage and amp readouts after the weld so you can see exactly what you were doing. everything is adjustable from the ac wave to post flow. and the runner set-up keeps everything self contained. it was my dream welder so i decided to take the dive and invest into one.

i had to relocate the air fuel gauge due to it being one fatty of a gauge. i moved it down to where the cigarette lighter was. i gotta put everything together to see if it sticks out too far. what a fricken piggy of a gauge.

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper
i had to relocate the air fuel gauge due to it being one fatty of a gauge. i moved it down to where the cigarette lighter was. i gotta put everything together to see if it sticks out too far. what a fricken piggy of a gauge.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

i was thinking that too, i even considered swapping the cd player and gauges to bring them up another 2 inches but the don't fit that high. i'd have to make another gauge pod.

i was kinda iffy on the air/fuel location because it is very low but sitting in the car it isn't bad at all. i'd rather looking down than having the gauges out in the open up high or on the a pillar.

there are a lot of stock cars like the corrado and rabbit that have low mounted gauges. since they aren't used all the time its a nice place to have them out of the way and from prying eyes.

http://images1.snapfish.com/34736%3B%3A%3C7%7Ffp344%3Enu%3D3274%3E4%3B3%3E372%3EWSNRCG%3D32337284%3B5%3C64nu0mrj

this is the view from the driver's seat.

new update. here is the gauges fully installed. that shift boot kind of bothers me the way its so skinny the whole way up. looks awkward. i think i'm going to make another one.




also what are these boxes? one is behind the shifter and one is under the heater box by the firewall in the center. could the second one be for the automatic transmission? i traced the harness and i think it is. i need it out because it interferes with the shifter cables.

the one by the shifter controls the SRS airbags...i think.

ok that makes sense since it needs to be mounted in a certain direction. i think i'm just gonna leave that other ecu deal out and see if my car runs without it.

If the other one is behind the radio, its probably the tcu for the auto tranny. And i'm pretty sure you dont need it if you did the mtx swap.
-Todd

Star Stage II, Greddy Type S, ADFX 3" DP, blah blah blah

Im not sure about the one behind the radio but I can look at work monday lol I do know that the one under the center console behind your shifter is your airbag brain project is looking great tho

DRIVE IT LIKE U STOLE IT

lol sorry guys still thought it was 07 for some dumb reason

DRIVE IT LIKE U STOLE IT