I've had this car since last year but it has been garaged waiting for me to get around to it. It was $600 from a girl so it was unmolested and clean except for the engine/transmission (dying trans and blown headgasket). i dunno if i introduced it too early but progress will be coming along definitely this month

i already pulled the engine and trans. i'm sourcing manual parts and i'm rebuilding the engine.

plans so far:

rebuild
p&p
evo III 16g
pte intercooler
megasquirt
mandrel bent exhaust with a borla muffler

i'll be machining and welding the piping and exhaust with my trusty miller. also i haven't decided on injectors or anything else. unfortunately i sold my turbo and intercooler from my vw project so i'll be getting them as i need them.

and pics of the car






more pics on my other comp. even though its not much to look at yet

Good luck on your project. Your lucky you have a garage dedicated to working on your car. If I had a place like that to work on my car I would eat and sleep there 24/7.

I plan on spending as much time as my children let me in my garage real soon. Can' forget as much time as the checkbook lets me spend.

yeah i def spend a LOT of time at the garage. i have a few cars going on so i'm always working. and all my friend's cars i work on too. i wish i got paid to do all that work because then i wouldn't have to have a real job

UPDATE:

my project changed a little

i'm just waiting on my new miller syncrowave to weld up everything to get it running.

new plans

--engine stuff
14b turbo
vortech fmu
custom dp (02 housing) and modified megan racing dp
3 inch magnaflow muffler
3 inch resonators
3 inch muffler
2 inch ic piping
prothane engine mounts
full engine rebuild and head goodies
msd ignition
2g intercooler
walbro hp 255 fuel pump
manual tranny swap
hks ssq bov
lots of extra stuff

--not engine stuff
kenwood headunit
volkswagen mkiv gauge pod
kenwood speakers

--and stuff i don't haven't picked up yet
snow performance water/alc injection
tein coils
asa ar1 rims

now for the pics------

manual swap done


rebuilt engine and new tranny in


new headunit and gauge cluster from mkiv jetta/golf. innovate air/fuel gauge not in yet


gauge housing made from old headunit


muffler. i'm really suprised how well it fits the eclipse's rear





reusing stock pistons for boost. thats what the water/alc injections is for

thats a clean looking car and that garage kicks ass! is it heated?

good luck with your build, i will be intoducing my latest secret project in about 2 weeks :)

I very lucky im moving to a new house with a 2 car garage. ;)
Most houses in Hawaii only have car ports. Been stuck with a car port for 2 1/2 years.

Stuck with a car-port. I WISH I had a car-port. lol

edit: Nice project, keep it coming.


http://talontimes.blogspot.com

99gs
95TSI

thanks

it not heated unfortunately. but i wear a quilted monkey suit while i was pulling the engine apart. for the welding and assembly though i'm gonna be using an electric heater. luckily this year its been fairly warm.

Are you planning to try the 14b on the stock manifold idea or do you have an aftermarket manifold for that thing? Reason I ask is I saw you mention the E316G set up and, while that's really popular in the 4G63 community these days, that manifold isn't working on a 420A. ;)

Also, keep an eye on those stock pistons. Even with really good tuning, the stockers might only be good for about a year on 10psi through the HRC S16G. You won't be able to just stick it at 10psi with that turbo and assume you're safe. You'll have to do some homework on this project.

Looks like you've got things under control, though. Good luck and keep us posted.

Originally posted by DR1665
Are you planning to try the 14b on the stock manifold idea or do you have an aftermarket manifold for that thing? Reason I ask is I saw you mention the E316G set up and, while that's really popular in the 4G63 community these days, that manifold isn't working on a 420A. ;) Also, keep an eye on those stock pistons. Even with really good tuning, the stockers might only be good for about a year on 10psi through the HRC S16G. You won't be able to just stick it at 10psi with that turbo and assume you're safe. You'll have to do some homework on this project. Looks like you've got things under control, though. Good luck and keep us posted.

my original plans was to use the 16g and go forged pistons/rods because i had a new 16g for another project. i was ready for a turbo set-up though so i sold it.

now i'm using the 14b turbo set-up. i'm hacking a stock 1g manifold, flipping and clocking the turbo and making a custom downpipe as well to make everything fit properly.

i'm going to be using this as a daily so it'll rarely see full boost. the innovate air/fuel standalone will help me keep tabs on the tuning and the snow performance water/alc injection will help keep things cool for more boost.

i just picked up my syncrowave tonight so this weekend i'll have some project pics so you can really see where i'm going with this project!!!

also i have a few other things i didn't mention like adjustable cam gear and intercooler sprayer for more tuning/cooling. i'm trying to build the engine so its reliable ore than powerful but i plan on being able to get a bit more power out of it whenever i want.

so it'll rarely see full boost
(never)Or it will break.


sounds like you got your shit in order I dont understand going with stock internals with this setup.
the two things you should upgrade you leave stock.

for all the people in the cold did you know the difference between summer and winter in hawaii is 4 degrees 84 in the summer 80 in the winter.


IM A ASSHOLE :) yes but a warm one.

i left it at stock compression for two reasons.

gas mileage. i don't want to worry about going HIGH boost and having to support that fuel system. and low compression means i'll have to keep the boost higher.

reliability/emissions. i want everything to remain fairly stock but have all these piggy back systems available so when i do turn the boost up it'll be ice cold fuel air so it can handle it but on the other side when i go to emissions or when i'm using it as a daily driver it'll only be seeing like 4-5 psi or less, whatever the wastegate is set to stock and it will wear as a stock engine.

besides. if i went with forged internals, i might as well go with another evo 3 16g. then i might as well get more fuel/standalone to support that power. then clutch, diff, axles, ect ect... then it doesn't pass emissions. i gotta cap it somewhere.

also i'm using a fairly mild clutch. i wanted to keep it driveable. of course the poly engine mounts are gonna rattle my teeth out.

you get the point. i wanted a fast/reliable/reasonable car.

you will all think i'm prolly nuts but i'm keeping the auto ecu to keep the 6500 rev limiter.

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper
i left it at stock compression for two reasons. gas mileage. i don't want to worry about going HIGH boost and having to support that fuel system. and low compression means i'll have to keep the boost higher. reliability/emissions. i want everything to remain fairly stock but have all these piggy back systems available so when i do turn the boost up it'll be ice cold fuel air so it can handle it but on the other side when i go to emissions or when i'm using it as a daily driver it'll only be seeing like 4-5 psi or less, whatever the wastegate is set to stock and it will wear as a stock engine. besides. if i went with forged internals, i might as well go with another evo 3 16g. then i might as well get more fuel/standalone to support that power. then clutch, diff, axles, ect ect... then it doesn't pass emissions. i gotta cap it somewhere. also i'm using a fairly mild clutch. i wanted to keep it driveable. of course the poly engine mounts are gonna rattle my teeth out. you get the point. i wanted a fast/reliable/reasonable car. you will all think i'm prolly nuts but i'm keeping the auto ecu to keep the 6500 rev limiter.

You DO realize that most engines that are aftermarket turbocharged like your engine will be, seamingly tend to not be soo reliable right?

Also, you seem like you know what you are doing, but you said you want a fast/reliable car. Two problems with that sentence in my opinion. One, the fast part. Your sticking with a stock compression motor, a small turbo and a near stock fuel system pushing 4-5psi. This isnt going to be as fast as you think it is I dont think. As any car is going to pull with a turbo, 4-5psi isnt very much. I bet it inproves your 1/4 from a 16 to maybe 14.8-15.5. I could be wrong, but that are the numbers I have seen with that much boost. Two, the reliable part that I already blabbed on about above.

I think you should go back to your original plans in your first post.

Rebuild
Megasquirt

Those are the 2 coolest things you can do :)

oh no no i wrote it wrong. i was saying if i were to drive this car to work or classes i would be driving the car at the minimum boost. which is 4-5 psi. but the way i'm setting it up (say if i were to try it out at the track or for whatever reason want more power) i could set the boost controller so it'll boost higher. how high i couldn't tell you right now. when its running, broken in and tuned, i'll dyno it and see what i'm working with.

and by fast i meant fastER. haha it would take a bit more to make it fast

do any of you have experience with water alcohol injection?

it lowers intake temperatures more than 45-50 degrees to allow for much more boost than the engine could normally handle. that with the ic sprayer i should be pretty safe. that way i can keep ignition timing without worrying about knocking or predetonating.

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper
do any of you have experience with water alcohol injection? it lowers intake temperatures more than 45-50 degrees to allow for much more boost than the engine could normally handle.

The reduction in temperature is only part of the equation. Water/Alky injection also serves to raise the effective octane rating of the combustion mixture, which results in the greatest benefit with regards to detonation, imo.

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper do any of you have experience with water alcohol injection? it lowers intake temperatures more than 45-50 degrees to allow for much more boost than the engine could normally handle.

The reduction in temperature is only part of the equation. Water/Alky injection also serves to raise the effective octane rating of the combustion mixture, which results in the greatest benefit with regards to detonation, imo.

i dont know much about it, but i would really like to experience with it or see some results from it. get that baby running and let us know how it works!!! :)

Guys, remember awddynamite ran 16 psi for over a year on a stock engine. It can be done, it's all in the tuning of it.

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05
Guys, remember awddynamite ran 16 psi for over a year on a stock engine. It can be done, it's all in the tuning of it.

AWDasshat had hours of dyno tunign on the car and his friend or whoever owned the shop so we call that FREE tuning. we could all do the same if Hahn would work on our car for nothing.

Most DSM'ers cant keep their car properly maintained and you expect them to properly tune them? PVC intakes and other less mentionable tactics make me cringe. Keep spreading the 16psi is fine mentality and we go back to blowing shit up again.

Go sit in the corner....here is the choad hat. You cant give out advise no more....your grounded.


Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon AWDasshat had hours of dyno tunign on the car and his friend or whoever owned the shop so we call that FREE tuning. we could all do the same if Hahn would work on our car for nothing. Most DSM'ers cant keep their car properly maintained and you expect them to properly tune them? PVC intakes and other less mentionable tactics make me cringe. Keep spreading the 16psi is fine mentality and we go back to blowing shit up again. Go sit in the corner....here is the choad hat. You cant give out advise no more....your grounded. Terry

i'm going to tune it until its perfect. it'd be kinda silly not to.

Originally posted by DR1665
The reduction in temperature is only part of the equation. Water/Alky injection also serves to raise the effective octane rating of the combustion mixture, which results in the greatest benefit with regards to detonation, imo.

x1000

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon AWDasshat had hours of dyno tunign on the car and his friend or whoever owned the shop so we call that FREE tuning. we could all do the same if Hahn would work on our car for nothing. Most DSM'ers cant keep their car properly maintained and you expect them to properly tune them? PVC intakes and other less mentionable tactics make me cringe. Keep spreading the 16psi is fine mentality and we go back to blowing shit up again. Go sit in the corner....here is the choad hat. You cant give out advise no more....your grounded. Terry

i'm going to tune it until its perfect. it'd be kinda silly not to.

hopefully you have tons of money, do you realize how much most dyno shops cost to actually dyno + tune your car 'perfectly' ?

i was expecting to pay around $1000 for tuning on the dyno.

the people at swift motorsports are going to help me out.

here is the type of ic piping and downpipe and exhaust i'm planning on using.

just an interesting and cheap alternative to mandrel bends.

Take a picture of the inside of that for me, lol

Anywho's, good luck on the project, it's good to see someone take alternative routes. I don't know of many that have rebuilt their engines with stock pistons AND boosted it, though I'm sure if you called and asked nicely J&E or Arias could have "found" some stock compression forged pistons.

Another thing to consider that you haven't mentioned would be to fab up a cold air intake for that turbo, I forget the specific numbers but a 1 degree drop in intake temp equals like a 3 degree drop in charge temp or something, it's significant.

haha you don't think theres good penetration? those welds are a bit small but they go all the way through.

also i think i will consider a cai. its only going to be for the summer in the nice weather so it might be a good idea.

heres the welding i did on the oil drain bung.



manifold cut and ready for mock up and fitting

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper do any of you have experience with water alcohol injection? it lowers intake temperatures more than 45-50 degrees to allow for much more boost than the engine could normally handle.

The reduction in temperature is only part of the equation. Water/Alky injection also serves to raise the effective octane rating of the combustion mixture, which results in the greatest benefit with regards to detonation, imo.

This kid at my school has a WRX and is running water/alky... It lowered his intake temperatures 48-55 degrees (in the summer).

alright I'm back. I was busy finishing my degree. I've been picking up parts to finish the car. I got all stainless steel piping and bends so I can make the downpipe and exhaust and intercooler piping. There is some fitment issues with the turbo so I'll be removing the passenger side radiator fan and either putting in some low profile flex-a-lite fans or making a shroud so only the driver one is needed.

I'm considering pulling the engine again and going evoIII 16g and forged internals and megasquirt and front mount. We'll see. I'm not too far into Installing everything yet. If the engine is pulled again, I'll be putting in a LSD. Pics will come shortly!

keep it up! you are living my dream!

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper
water/alc injection will help keep things cool for more boost.

That is incorrect. water/alc injection does help fend off high intake temps and the like which in turn cause detonation.

But it sure as hell isn't going to do a single thing except get in the way when your pulling your engine again to rebuild it cause you blew the ringlands to pieces.

Your going to be very disappointed in those pistons, I guaranfuckintee it.

Originally posted by Blizare
Your going to be very disappointed in those pistons, I guaranfuckintee it.

I have to agree with Blizzo this time around. You look like you've got a lot of fabrication experience and that will serve you well, but why spend $1000 on dyno tuning? Holy shiite, man. Allow me to illustrate:

Your plan:
$1000
-extensive dyno time on stock bottom end
You get a couple extra pounds out of that snail and make a bit more power than those who did not invest so heavily in tuning. You're still on fragile, cast internals - only now you're running the car right up on the very edge of that blade. One wrong move, one boost spike, and the engine is toast, bro.

OUR plan:
$1000
-Forged pistons. <$500
-Megasquirt'n'Spark. <$500
You save money by getting keeping the stock connecting rods, but you upgrade the weakest link in the system - the brittle-ass ring lands on those cast pistons. You are still more prone to bend a rod, but you can throw more boost at those pistons before you're at risk to do so.

On top of that, you've got the community standard tuning instrument which allows complete control of both fuel and spark (AND water/alky injection) - which you can not get anywhere else for less than a grand. This community has a solid base of experienced professionals who are using MSnS to tune their own cars.

If you roll into a dyno shop with a SFMU and an SAFC with a boosted engine on completely stock internals, chances are good they're going to be able to tune you okay, but these cars don't have the adjustability to really do a good tune without the proper electronics installed.

Suppose you stuck to your guns and spent all that money on the dyno. They can adjust your cam gears and maybe play around with your fuel pressure or even an SAFC to lean things out (it won't add fuel on our cars). It's going to be tricky, at best.

Suppose you put in forged pistons and invest in MSnS. Now you can do a lot of the tuning yourself. You can adjust your fuel trims to be right where you want them (a couple hundred dollars more will have you sporting onboard wideband O2). You can advance your ignition timing lower in the rpms to help you spool the turbo, then gradually retard to hold that boost out to redline. In the meantime, MSnS is watching your IATs, EGTs, and TPS to determine when to activate your water injection system on the fly. If you could put 10-12psi to the stock pistons, now you're putting the wood to those rods, but you can go further with the engine in terms of boost and horsepower before you bend something. Are you going to get 400whp out of the stock rods? Haha. I highly doubt it, but you'll go farther on forged pistons/stock rods than stock pistons and rods.

I think spending $1000 on dyno tuning a car which does not have the mods needed for proper tuning is just giving a grand to the shop. Now, while you've got a lot of it apart, is the time to stop and re-think the game plan. It's obvious you've got a smart head on your shoulders, but you could just go SO much farther if you just swapped out those stock pistons.

That's my .o2

EDIT:
Blizzo and I agreeing again. Who woulda thunkit.

that was beautiful dude, you even made me cry!!

i already beat you on the wideband



if i did get megasquirt i can tune it via my laptop right?

that way i tune it until it has perfect air/fuel and ignition ect. then i only pay for dyno pulls.

but would megasquirt pass emissions? i need this to be a street legal car that doesn't have a check engine light and will pass an obd-II test.

the car isn't registered right now so i need to have it inspected as soon as i get it running so i can get it on the road.

has anyone made a harness set-up that you could quick disconnect and swap management? if it is worth i think i might take a look at that. i'm keeping all my other emission components so i think i could make it happen.

maybe i might stop and think about pulling the engine and coordinating the engine bay a little different so i can do this.

if i do swap to forged internals i might as well go with some bigger injectors and get forged rods too.

i hate all these decisions i have to make. i really really want the car on the road since it's been more than a year so i need it to be streetable and passable.

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper
i need this to be a street legal car that doesn't have a check engine light and will pass an obd-II test.

Keep it stock :shrug

Even though I'm not running the MS right now, I have everything installed on the car, hooked up ready to go. All I need to run the MS is a laptop that works (Grrr!) and to swap two connectors (fuel rail connector to MS/ ECU connector to resistor board) and the thing goes, it takes five minutes counting beer time. I just took the car to be smogged (the infamous CA smog) and it passed with flying colors. So the answer is, yes it will pass emissions, if you take the time to set it up so that you can flop back to stock in a heartbeat. now as far as the turbo on your engine passing emissions, I don't know the laws there, but they'd slam your pecker in a car door here in CA, and that's at a nice shop.

BTW, I believe the Innovative works with the MS too.

i think i'm going to add a second phase to this car.

i think i'm going to continue installing the engine and turbo with stock management for now. after the semester ends i think i'll pull the head and swap pistons/rods and swap the injectors/management and put in a fmic/evo III 16g.

sounds like a lot of work but i don't want to invest in all that right now while i'm still in classes since i don't have any time to do that work. i'll fab up the manifold and downpipe to fit the turbo and work out all the other support systems so when it comes to it, i'll just have to swap everything and change around the intercooler piping a little.

also i don't want to run a fmic until i swap the bumper to a 97-99 bass mouth so i have some more room to play with.

and one of the things i can do is have an easy swap for the ecu set-up. also i'll have the car emissions tested so i'll have another two years to play with a bigger set-up.

With MSnS, you will use your own laptop to tune. It can even be one of those $75 cheap-o laptops off eBay a lot of the time, so you don't have to have a top-o-the-line lappy to use this system.

For emissions, if you have the ECU disconnected from the injector harness, then you'll get a CEL for injector failure. I've heard of some people leaving the stock injectors connected to the stock harness and tucked away behind the intake manidfold so the ECU can still operate them. I don't know how their running dry will affect them, but it's an idea. The other alternative, and what I had done for my car when I was planning on running MSnS, was to source another injector harness from a parts car that I could wire into my MS harness. That way, I could swap the connection controlling the injectors; MS or ECU.

Emissions/inspection considerations include deciding where you will intall your secondary IAT and CLT sensors. I put my IAT into the hole where the EGR pipe enters the back of the intake manifold. Now I have about three months to find another damn EGR pipe and figure out how to bolt it back up to that location. (I can remove my IAT since I'm not running MSnS, but if you want to avoid this situation, you might want another location for this MS sensor. Besides, I hear flow at this location is less than ideal.)

The wideband is definitely the way to go. MSnS can be set up, as far as I remember, to adjust fuel delivery on the fly in order to achieve preset AFR values. Given temperature and altitude changes, this sounds like a good option to have. Give yourself some time to iron out your AFR and then begin to play with spark.

I think this would be a great place to get started. Get up into the engine management forum and start reading up on what people are doing. You'll pick it up pretty quick.

good advice. i think i'll take you up on that and see about megasquirt and get back to my original plans.

i bead blasted the oil pan and repainted. i was having a hard time deciding on a color so i picked "doo doo brown" like my gf says.




oh and i'm gonna have to relocate the innovate gauge somewhere else. i'm thinking of replacing the cigarette lighter with the gauge and putting another gauge in the pod.



the car is supporting itslef and the engine/tranny for the first time in 11 months

i hacked up the megan downpipe today. i have to flip it around a bit to add the 3 inch cat and the custom downpipe. i would have taken more pictures but my camera died as soon as i took this pic. haha so much for a $170 downpipe

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper
i bead blasted the oil pan and repainted. i was having a hard time deciding on a color so i picked "doo doo brown" like my gf says.

That sure is one horrid oilpan color lol.

haha well i don't think anyone will copy me then.

nice job on the return fittings.. However I am worried about the placing of your drain. With it being that low, you will most likely see oil backing up in your drain line as the oil level in the pan is higher than where you placed the drain.

Originally posted by whodatt1
nice job on the return fittings.. However I am worried about the placing of your drain. With it being that low, you will most likely see oil backing up in your drain line as the oil level in the pan is higher than where you placed the drain.

X2

Originally posted by whodatt1
nice job on the return fittings.. However I am worried about the placing of your drain. With it being that low, you will most likely see oil backing up in your drain line as the oil level in the pan is higher than where you placed the drain.

i was thinking about it for a while. it would have been difficult to mount it higher because of the size of the push lock barb i used. it is 5/8" diameter barbs and hose so it would take a half quart of fluid to back up to the turbo. also its being mounted as a top mount so i will have a lot of hose. the oil will have plenty of space to leave the turbo quickly. if i find i'm having problems i'll change th design a little. its a used 14b right now so i don't mind replacing it.


anyway more progress:


i finished the modified ci motorsports oil feed kit with a few extra fittings to incorporate a second fuel pressure sender, restrictor, and of course the feed line to the turbo



i don't think my axles are seated fully. who the heck would decide to have splines on both sides of the axles???? does anyone have pictures of fully seated axle splines? its so much easier when the inner cv joint is bolted to the diff.



i finally set up the clutch cylinder as well. i have to bleed it some more because its not disengaging the clutch with full pedal travel. all my pedals are hooked up now, though.



the car is looking more and more complete every day though!!! rims and coilovers will come when the salt is off the roads.



my board of stuff to install/weld, plumb/wire, and buy. i want to get all this stuff done by next weekend. its looking good since i have monday off from classes that i'll get to spend another 6 or 7 hours working on it.

maybe i'll have it running for the first time in more than a year???

the marker board is a good idea, I like that. Nice progress. What model Tig do you have? I have been looking into a Dynasty 200 from Miller for next year.

Terry

off topic...but...

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
I have been looking into a Dynasty 200 from Miller for next year.

I really recommend the dynasty 200, the whole package is just amazing. For what you get in the versatility its not that pricey. its perfect for automotive fabrication, and its AC/DC. rock on. If you want a badass little TIG, thermal arc has a nice HF start box, but its DC - only. I opted for the dynasty. ive welded things for people on their kitchen tables before, its awesome. it actually paid for itself in a few weeks of steady side work. a little generator can handle its load no problem, then you have a killer package right there!

i have a syncrowave 200. between that and the auto-dark miller helmet its a breeze to weld. it does ac, dc, aluminum, steel, titanium, stainless, magnesium(?), and anything else i get my hands on. it has voltage and amp readouts after the weld so you can see exactly what you were doing. everything is adjustable from the ac wave to post flow. and the runner set-up keeps everything self contained. it was my dream welder so i decided to take the dive and invest into one.

i had to relocate the air fuel gauge due to it being one fatty of a gauge. i moved it down to where the cigarette lighter was. i gotta put everything together to see if it sticks out too far. what a fricken piggy of a gauge.

Originally posted by fastmaxxcooper
i had to relocate the air fuel gauge due to it being one fatty of a gauge. i moved it down to where the cigarette lighter was. i gotta put everything together to see if it sticks out too far. what a fricken piggy of a gauge.

I think those 3 gauges look clean under the radio, but I dont think it was a good choice of spot for all those 4 gauges bro. I cant imagine going full throttle and then having to look down that far to monitor boost and a/f.

I dunno man, I would think about relocating those myself.

i was thinking that too, i even considered swapping the cd player and gauges to bring them up another 2 inches but the don't fit that high. i'd have to make another gauge pod.

i was kinda iffy on the air/fuel location because it is very low but sitting in the car it isn't bad at all. i'd rather looking down than having the gauges out in the open up high or on the a pillar.

there are a lot of stock cars like the corrado and rabbit that have low mounted gauges. since they aren't used all the time its a nice place to have them out of the way and from prying eyes.

http://images1.snapfish.com/34736%3B%3A%3C7%7Ffp344%3Enu%3D3274%3E4%3B3%3E372%3EWSNRCG%3D32337284%3B5%3C64nu0mrj

this is the view from the driver's seat.

new update. here is the gauges fully installed. that shift boot kind of bothers me the way its so skinny the whole way up. looks awkward. i think i'm going to make another one.




also what are these boxes? one is behind the shifter and one is under the heater box by the firewall in the center. could the second one be for the automatic transmission? i traced the harness and i think it is. i need it out because it interferes with the shifter cables.

the one by the shifter controls the SRS airbags...i think.

ok that makes sense since it needs to be mounted in a certain direction. i think i'm just gonna leave that other ecu deal out and see if my car runs without it.

If the other one is behind the radio, its probably the tcu for the auto tranny. And i'm pretty sure you dont need it if you did the mtx swap.
-Todd

Im not sure about the one behind the radio but I can look at work monday lol I do know that the one under the center console behind your shifter is your airbag brain project is looking great tho

lol sorry guys still thought it was 07 for some dumb reason