Ok, here are some thoughts on metaljim's idea. Anyone please step in with your thoughts about any of this also.

Fooling the ECU into going into open loop with boost is a great idea. BUT, it may hurt our low boost(1-6 psi) power. Our engines are built and designed to be VERY detonation proof. The actual shape, design, and the excellent flow characteristics of our cylinder head helps denote detonation in itself, which is why we can run almost 8 psi without getting detonation. I noticed on the datalogger that WOT timing advance stays pretty close to 15 degrees. I think, just by how the car feels, that this is almost PERFECT timing advance running upwards of 8 psi, on stock 9.6:1 compression. The car just pulls excellent with that boost pressure, and ignition timing (remember, we are running 93 octane gas here, as must at 8 psi). The reason i say this, is becuase detonation seems to set in right after 8 psi, as I and others have blow our stock pistons at anything over this (even with slightly rich A/F ratios). NOW, part throttle boosting in closed loop, seems to be right on power wise, using the stock ecu timing advance to upwards of almost 30 degrees! With this much advance, anything over 6 psi may cause detonation,in closed loop. So now running 1-6 psi in closed loop is making great power, without detonation, becuase of our great cumbustion chamber design. Now, if we were to fool the ECU into going into open loop at lower boost, say 1-6 psi, IMO, it would really hurt our HP in low boost. But we have to think about how long we are actually in low boost in closed loop. Not long at all. It takes quite a bit of easy throttle to build 7+ psi of boost without going into open loop (80% + throttle). I did that one time hit almost 10 psi, but it had just went out of closed loop. It was mearly a second. IMO, it would be best to START timing retard at lets say 6 psi, when in closed loop ONLY. We dont need any timing retard with boost lower thatn that, if we did, we would loose big power, since detonation at that boost or lower doenst really happen with a lot of timing advance. If we saw 15 degrees of timing at 1-6 psi of boost, it would def hurt HP, in big way IMO. If we could retard boost starting at 6 psi in closed loop, up to where it goes into open loop, that would be perfect. That would protect our engines from 6 psi to 10 psi, if we could get boost that high in closed loop)). Then when the ecu goes into open loop, only start retarding starting at 7 or 8 psi, and on up from there. This way, we keep our low boost, closed loop power , and very little chance of detonation if we can actually get boost to go higher in closed loop. Then when we get the ecu to go into open loop, timing will again start to retard once more, starting at 8 psi on up. Does this make sense? Its almost going to be "easier" to keep a watch on our boost gauges to not let part throttle boost go above 6 psi in closed loop, rather than trying to figure all this out, let alone finding the proper retard modules and electronics to make it work. After we hit that 6 psi, just puch the gas to the floor, or far enough to get the ecu to go into open loop. This way, timing retard units that can retard with boost, will work if we set them to start retarding at 8 psi and higher. That just brings us back to where we started We NEED at least a unit that will retard timing when under boost. But it needs to be versatile enough to only start at 8 psi and up, where we only need it. It could then be fine tuned with an rpm based retard as well, but much dyno time to do that properly. I still think retarding only with rpm's is not the best way to go for power production. We just plain dont need it. Not at lower boost. Time once again for more research..I am determined to find the right product that will work for us MSD makes a boost only retard unit, i am looking into that, as it can be had for 300 or less. Its a start. I earnestly believe there is a way we can do this, without shelling out big bucks for a stand alone EMS, and at the same time, make EXCELLENT HP, without blowing up our little 420A's

EDIT: Ok, i see what metaljim is saying, i didnt understand at first. But you say that only start retard in closed loop at 6+ psi of boost, which is what i was tyring to say also. I still need to think about this some more really

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
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-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)