Well, after waiting forever, I am finally to the point where I am able to start my car with the turbo kit installed!

What I have is: reverse t25 turbo, 440cc injectors w/resistor pack, 3000GT BOV, SFMU, 255 fuel pump, AEM WB O2, SAFC and a bunch of shit im probably forgetting.

Now, I don't expect it to run perfectly right out of the gun but I thought I'd post and let you guys know what it's doing and maybe you can help me get it lined out.

When I start it up, the Wideband O2 fluctuates between 11 and 14; The Oil pressure was +65 or so I believe and I think the EGT was around 6. The boost gauge reads around -14 psi. It spikes up when I press the gas. If I rev it too much the car will die. At idle, it fluctuates between about .6 - .9 RPM back and forth repeatedly. Also, should I be able to hear my BOV if I just rev the engine? I fdrgot to check the fuel pressure, the gague is on the rail, I can reply with that tomorrow if needed. Im sure I need to make adjustments for conditions @ idle and @ WOT.

I have an SAFC, but it needs some work since some cunt broke into my car and ripped the wiring out of the circuit board. If someone could respond to this thread: http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_mesg&forum=8&topic_id=102274&mesg_id=102274&page= that would be helpful.

Here is a picture. I left the fan off so I can quicky access anything if needed, i'll put that back on when I get stuff lined out. I also plan to wrap the downpipe and manifold. Im also trying to route the IC piping around the fogs, but I may not be able to get away with that. I also did the 97 front end conversion during this. I can post more pics as I wrap things up.

Terry: the fuel line you built seems to work great, thanks.

Am I seeing that picture right, that the piping from the compressor is routed first between the turbo and the exhaust manifold, and then hugs the turbine section and runs right next to the exhaust for a few more inches? It would be ironic if that IC piping is transferring as much heat into the air as the intercooler is removing.

You normally can't hear your BOV by blipping the throttle unless you have a load so you can build boost. *however* if you do not have a load (like the car is just sitting in neutral) and keep the RPMs up high enough so that the turbo spools up, and quickly close the throttle body plate, that momentarily builds up pressure and the BOV will sound

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

Yea, you should rework that i.c piping...doesnt look like the intercooler will do much.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Im completely open to ideas to re-route the piping. Based on space, it doesnt looks like I have alot of options there...

I plan to wrap the downpipe and manifold, that should help with temp's, right? I could also wrap that piece of IC Piping as well, right?

can't clock the compressor housing? I haven't dealt with t25 int/WG so not sure on the bolt setup, but clockin the outlet down would help a ton.

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'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

You can clock all of it. A year ago I ran a T25. You can flip it over and run a 2.5 in down pipe with no problem. You can make the bov sound if you rev it 5k and blip the thottle it will hit about 3psi for a second. I have my old down pipe with flange in have garage some where.

That would be helpful. Took me almost a year to get the downpipe made the way it is, so im not in much of a hurry to get it changed really. I think I can wrap the IC Pipe and manifold and header and all and it should maintain temps. I probably need more help with tuning and such. It is nice to hear it running again thats for sure.

Hey bud I Pm'd you back. Just let me know where you are at. Cold beer, a big hammer, and my welder and we can defeat any problems. Also my labor rate is about a gabillion an hour.

I've got the hammer and the beer, that's for sure!

I'd for sure do something about your intercooler pipes.

You know how hot those turbo parts get. Those pipes are going to soak up that heat like nobodys business and SIGNIFICANTLY reduce your performance. Every 100* drop in intake temps is around 10% more hp.


I'd move the battery to the trunk to move the IC to TB piping away from the downpipe more.

I'd also clock the compressor side down instead of being that close to the turbine housing.

It's not like it's going to be that much more work.

You got it running, that's the important thing.

Goodnight sweetheart...yes its time to go...bum bum bum bum bum...good night sweetheart yes I am one little a$$hole......bum bum bum bum....

Ok, thanks for your suggestions, I'll see what I can do.

This turbo + manifold setup I bought from Blizare. Here is what he told me about making changes:

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Built. That's All...
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www.monkeybuttpirate.com
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2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

What kind of intercooler are you running?

Goodnight sweetheart...yes its time to go...bum bum bum bum bum...good night sweetheart yes I am one little a$$hole......bum bum bum bum....

XS POWER

SS autochrome eh?


I heard from a few online sources that those intercoolers and the ones from ebay heatsoak like a pair of horny teenager panties during a johnny depp flick. Yes, even the fmic's.

I'm doing some digging to see if there is any truth to that. I dont see why there would be. It's a basic tube and fin design that expensive intercoolers use too. Might be an "it doesn't cost as much as my hks/greddy/arc intercooler so it's garbage" type-thing.

Why is a single pair of underwear refered to as a pair anyway?

Goodnight sweetheart...yes its time to go...bum bum bum bum bum...good night sweetheart yes I am one little a$$hole......bum bum bum bum....