I have more problems with my power steering then I think anyone can ever have. My belt has shoot off more than 15 times and is has gotten tangled in my timing belt several times which you all know caused a ton of damage.

I had my unorthodox under drive pulley taken off and replaced back to stock, had it checked to see if it’s aligned. I also replaced the power steering pump. The problem still exists and no matter who I take it to they claim to fix it and then it happens again.

I am sick and tired of it causing me problems so I have come to the decision to remove it. I have the phantom LSD on my car. I was wondering what do I need to do to take the power steering out of my car.

I understand that I am going to need to drain the power steering fluid but I wasn’t sure what else to do following that. I want it to be a little less work trying to turn or park because to my understanding the reason why it is so hard now is because I am trying to push the fluid through manually.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/browseimages.php?do=member&imageuser=24657

Probably the tensioner bearing failing that is making it come off, but okay.

There's two lines going into the PS rack. Connect them together.

Rip everything else out.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

Am I going to have any problems when I connect the two lines going into the PS rack and then Rip everything else out.

Is removing the PS going to cause any problem is what I am getting at?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/browseimages.php?do=member&imageuser=24657

Yes it will cause you problems. The ps system is made to have ps fluid in it while the car is running, using the ps system without the fluid circulating through it will cause the gears inside the power steering to chew themselves up. You want to convert to MANUAL steering, and I hear the parts for that are not only hard to find, but it's a pain in the ass to install. But yeah, I would recommend against just disconnecting the lines to your power steering.

That's why you connect the lines on the rack together. it keeps the fluid in it, and instead of pushing fluid from the rack, you're just moving it from one side to the other.

For what its worth, you *can* just disconnect the lines. The rack won't implode or fall apart if you do.

No manual rack for a 2GNT exists.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

So if I connect the lines on the rack together to keep the fluid in it, and instead of pushing fluid from the rack, I will just be moving it from one side to the other, will this still make it easier to steer? (ex: parking)

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/browseimages.php?do=member&imageuser=24657

No, not really. It's going to be hard regardless of what you do.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

I understand its going to be hard, but I guess where I am getting at is when I take it out and connect those tubes will it be alittle easier then how it was when I had everything still in there?

Do I have any other options?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/browseimages.php?do=member&imageuser=24657

It will be the same as it is now with no belt. Your option is to fix the issue and keep the power steering.

Terry

Yeah, no power steering sucks. Big time.

Unless you're not driving daily, then you really don't need PS.

1998 Eclipse GS

GS-T Axleback|CAI|OBX 4-1 Header|AF/X UDP|

okay I ended up not removing my powersteering but we decided just to use a belt for the powersteering and no ac. My mechanic checked over the stepup and everything seems okay until the drive homl\
Well I was at a stop light and I shifted into neutral and did a light rev and I felt the belt slip off. I pulled over and yes it slipped off with no noticable marks on the belt. What can explain this for keep happening?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/browseimages.php?do=member&imageuser=24657

Simply put, either geometry or tension (provided the belt is good).

Either the tension on the belt is incorrect (or slipping) or one of the components crooked (pulleys crooked or bent or the whole power steering pump crooked).

The tension is kind of self explanatory. I check my geometry with a T straight edge that I make. Basically I put a piece (usually wood) on the end of a straight edge at 90* and then lay the straight edge against the pulleys to eyeball for gaps. I guess that's not the greatest explanation but the drive is to check and see that the pulleys are in line so the belt does not ride off.

MB

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

check the tensioner pully.
heres how.

First, go to the auto parts store or a bearing shop and get a 6301 sealed bearing.(about $5.00)

Now go home and get the following tools,
hammer, 3/8" ratchet, 15MM socket, 3/8" extenion, spring clip removal tool, or a small regular screwdriver

Pull off your belt(or in your case, rev the motor until it falls off)
grab the pully and wiggle it. If it moves in any direction other than the intended rotation, the bearing is NFG, I am talking even 1/2 of a MM.

Simply unbolt the pully slide it twards the rear of the car and it slip right out of the bracket.

Next you need to remove the pully from the threaded shaft it rides on. use that hammer, one decent hit should knock it loose and you can pull it out.

Next remove the spring clip that hold the bearing inplace.

After that,knock the bearing out of the pully. Place it on its side,(spring clip side down) use the 3/8" socket extension placed on the bearing. Use a hammer and give it a solid couple of wacks. The bearing will pop right out.

Once the bearing is out of the pully, clean the pully up with a rag or paper towel.

The new bearing needs to be "press" fitted into the pully. that is simple. Carefully use your hammer and that 3/8" extension. Mind the seal, you dont want ruin the seal or youll be doing this again in a few months.

Once the bearing is in the pully, replace the spring clip, the threaded shaft. Slip it back onto the motor, repace the belt and tighten everything down.

Start your motor up and notice how much more quiet the motor sounds now that the spent bearing has been repalced

This job takes about 15 minutes to comlpete

Tom

98 RS 5spd.

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

I'm in the process of this. I'm connecting the lines. Um, should i add some fluid before looping them? Which line if so? What should i use to connect the lines and where can i get the peice?

Any write ups on ac removal? I mean, i didn't want to take it out but fuck it. My windows roll down.

Rather just bring this thread back than make another.

Mike D
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Mike D
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Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Mike D
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I'm guessing he means a simple "cut them and let that be that". I dont like the sound of that.



Fuck it. I'll replace the lines, pulley bearing, pulley(do aftermarket aem pulleys come with bearings?), res and bring the power steering back into the picture. I'll probably keep the ac too. If I ever need the room in the future, they'll come out.

Do you mean to just unbolt the lines from the rack and thats it mark?

Mike D
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Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

Alright, that's all I needed to hear then, thanks Mark. I thought it was "required" to connect them together or else the rack would get damaged very soon or something.

Mike D
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of course everyone had to talk about powersteering belts being lunched and of course mine decided to get eaten, turns out the bolt on the drivers side of the pump decided to grow legs allowing the pump to flex slightly in the bracket, sliding the belt off.

anyone know the size of that bolt so I can pick one up on the way home? I don't want to take the whole pump loose just to get a bolt size when I dont' have the time.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

sounds like your crank pulley is slightly too far out or the tensioner pulley isn't tightened enough/bad bearing, that's the problems i've had with the belt popping off

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

If you replace the bearing remember to tell them if it is shielded or not, and if so how it is. See if you have an Applied Industrial Technologies in your area. You can get a good price usually on our bearings.

6301 2ZJEM (Metal Shielded on both sides)
6301 2RS (Rubber Shielded on both sides)

I believe those are primarly stocked in the SKF brand, but you could probably get them also in a Koyo which is a cheaper, but decent replacement.

Im not try to make a sells pitch, just trying to give ya some info to help you out if you decided to replace it.

'95 Eclipse RS (sold)
'99 Eclipse GS OZ (sold)
'90 Eclipse GST (sold)
'90 Talon TSI AWD (sold)
'94 Plymouth Laser RS (sold)
'04 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8t (sold)
'08 Silverado LTZ (daily)