Well I've been working on this the past several weekends, and thought i'd share some pics of the all the wiring for the MS, and the IAT and coolant sensor locations.

GM Coolant sensor mounted in stock T-stat housing, and wired to loom:



GM Intake Air Temp sensor, tapped into the EGR hole, and counter sunk so the tip of the sensor is more exposed inside the mani:


Here is some wiring at the battery for the MS power, and redid my fan relay wiring while i was in there:



This is the stock injector harness that I spliced. I used Male/Female connectors just in case I wish to re-connect the stock wiring:



I left 2 loops of wiring here, one is the injector driver wires, just if i need easy access to the wiring to add resistors, or whatever. The other harness there is the Ignition driver wires, and I ran 3 spare wires here also, just in case I wish to add more features later on.



Just a pic of all my wires. Getting the harness all ready..



Oooo look at all the wires! This is fun


This is where I drilled a 1" hole in the firewall, passenger side, close to the stock wire harness.



Pic of the loomed up complete harness running next to the stock harness, and into the car.



The complete wire harness on the pass side. I don't know exactly where I will be putting the MS, but it will prob go under the dash there, prob to the left by the console. I'll prob run a DB9 cable to it, so I dont have to mess around plugging it in all the time.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

ok
thats just cool

looks clean
what did you use to seal the coolant sensor
it looks like teflon tape or is it paste

1996 eclipse GS-T
1968 Ford Mustang
2004 Suzuki GSXR600
2006 Honda CBR1000RR
Decisions Decisions

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

damn clean work...as always Matt

getty up

-kent-




'98 Talon...gone, but not forgotten

When I decide to Megasquirt (not a question of if), I will need all kinds of help, I can see that now. There's no way in hell I'm going to be able to do that shit by myself. Especially because I am electronic/wiring/ems retarded. That is some good looking stuff by the way.

-Roman

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

It looks good man! Nice and Clean.. Are you a car stereo installer?

_____________________________________
Scott
90' GSX, 06' Effo SSL

(parting out 95 GS)

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

OMG! That looks like so much fucking fun! I can't wait to do that to Daisy! This thread is getting bookmarked. Very, very useful information and pictures in here, Matt. Sincere thank yous!

I want my megasquirt. I Just need to read a little more. (all I've been doing for the past 2 days ) Man, If I lived close to where you are at, I'd pay you to wire mine in, I hate dealing with wires and such. But it's all for a great purpose.
~Jeffo


Hey, have you seen my new tail lights? Yeah, cool huh, get used to looking at them.

I started my wire up tonight. Got as far as drilling the hole and RTVing my "grommet" in place. Planning on roughing in the wires for the MS and Zt tomorrow night. I was thinking though, I like this idea here:

And I've decided I want to do the same, but is there any reason why? (Maybe this was mentioned elsewhere and I forgot or missed it.) Is there any reason to keep the stock IAT (other than CEL)? Why not just install the new sensor in the old location? Seems to me it would be more accurate to the temperature of the air actually being ingested by the cylinders. Air rushing past the throttle plate is going to be coming right in from the filter element (or turbo) and might be slightly cooler than air already in the plenum. Maybe it's such an insignifigant difference that it doesn't matter and I'm textbook much ado about nothing here, but I'm curious, ya know?

Finally, with the EGR blocked off like that, how do you think the IAC will react? MS going to be able to rectify? I'm thinking IAC might try to choke off the idle when it's looking for EGR flow. Of course, I'm really tired too. I should have gone to bed hours ago.

-"Easy Mac"
05 Mazda RX-8 (RR8 #88)
99 Eclipse RS 398whp & 372lb-ft

Yeah i've had that blocked off for several years now..The only thing that happens is during a CEL clearing, or ECU reset, shortly after I start the car, it will stumble and idle like crap for like 30 seconds or so, then trip the CEL for EGR insufficient flow, then it runs like normal anytime after that(as long as i dont reset the ECU again). If you are still utilizing the stock ECU for idle control, ect, then it will still happen..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Well, I finally got to start roughing in my wires tonight. I have to say that this post was a big help in reminding me of little things I already knew and also for giving me ideas on things I want to try differently. az2gnt.net/events/DaisyRebornMSwiringroughin/index.html I think I'll run a couple more wires like you did in the event I want to add some new gizmo Lee cooks up after the fact. I do have some other questions, however I think I will start a new thread for search puposes.

Thanks again.

(And tell me what you think so far, if you wouldn't mind.)

EDIT:
Dammit. I just remembered I have Lee's schematic bookmarked and it's got more than a couple differences from the schematic I used tonight. It's reasons like this that I always rough in all my wires first before I terminate anything. Looks like most of my questions just got answered. LOL

It's still a lot of fun in any case. I love this shit. There's just something about a clean wire up that calms me down.

EDIT2:
Just to be on the safe side, is this schematic still current? Or have there been changes made to work with the 4G63 ignition modules?

Driggs look for the newer on on this site pinned to the top. Its the first link.

So far i have the db37 all soldered in and I am ready to pull the harness into the car. I am going to use the factory sensors or air and coolant.

Looks real nice Matt, if you remove the Pass side panel to the console, you will see a perfect spot right behind the radio for the MS unit. you will have to stand it up on its side but some velcro tape will make it a nice comfortable spot to be! lol

Terry

It's looking good so far Brian! Be sure to wire loom up all your wires too, it will help to protect them, and look like stock too As far as the wiring diagram, yeah that link has the most updated one so far. The fuel pump output is up to you really..I'm still retaining the stock ECU for now, so i'll just leave fuel pump control up to that...just one less wire to hook up i suppose. If you are taking out the stock ECU, then of course you will have to hook up fuel pump to MS control. One thing that I was thinking about though, I should have wired up the DB37 and soldered it before I ran the wires, since now I will have to solder it up inside the car...which is not a huge deal, but it would have been easier to do it outside the car on a bench.. Have fun!

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Eh no prob for the help man..Oh and one more thing, don't forget to run a vac line to run to the MS map sensor! I just got that done today, and finished up running the wire from my AEM wideband and tied that in with my harness As far as wiring goes, just be sure to write down what each wire does..I made my own harness with my own wires, and just wrote everything down. I had to use several of the same color wires, so with those i put 2 wires in a drill, and you can put the other ends in a vise, and twist them up. I did this for the igntion drivers, and the injector drivers. Fun stuff

Oh and one more thing, if you are going to put your IAT sensor in the EGR hole, you will want to counter sink the hole first, so that the sensor fits down into the EGR hole a bit..If you just blindly drill and tap the hole, then the tip of the sensor is almost flush with the wall of the intake mani. First, just find a drill bit that is slightly larger than the hex of the sensor, and drill the EGR hole at least 1/8" or so down. Then you can use your NPT drill and then tap the hole. Just dont drill that first counter sink hole too deep, or you wont be able to get a wrench on the sensor hex. Don't go any more than 1/4" down.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

When makign your harness to deal with the trouble of finding different color wires......take a pice of vacuum tubing that the wire will fit in. Cust a small pie chunk out of it so you can see the wire once put in. Now insert a sharpie marker and pull the wire through to make a colored stripe on the wire. Thsi will also make the harness look more professional. This is an old RC car trick i learned years ago. One white wire can become 6 different wires.

Terry

That sounds pretty neat, Terry. Can't say I did that on my RC-10, but certainly an idea.

Originally posted by DR1665
That sounds pretty neat, Terry. Can't say I did that on my RC-10, but certainly an idea.

1996 eclipse GS-T
1968 Ford Mustang
2004 Suzuki GSXR600
2006 Honda CBR1000RR
Decisions Decisions

At one point in time mt RC-10 was my little world, i was just as anal then too....lol


Terry

That's a beautiful wiring job I think if you made multiple wiring harnesses premeasured and all loomed up and sold them for a decent price you'd sell a lot.

98' Dodge Avenger
HRC Stage 3

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Good info Nate.

I though the MS had the output already set up for the fan control? but your saying you need to design an amplifier and solder that to the board...i think i got that confused.....

How would you go about building an amplifier for one of the unused outputs? I would expect it to be similer to the driver circuit used on the Injectors

Terry

Yeah, you have to use a transistor to drive a relay for extra outputs. You would fry the processor if you tried to run a relay off of it directly.. Here is a diagram for water injection control, but just follow the x2 diagram from the board to drive a relay..basically a resistor and a 2n2222 transistor, and a diode.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

makes perfect sense...whats the 0v?

Terry

0v just means ground..

There actually is already one circuit like this on the MS board meant for the fast idle control relay. Since we dont really use this feature, it would be pretty simple to jump any output on the processor and have it go to the input resistor on the fast idle circuit, to control a relay, such as the fan control. Just take the fan control output from the processor(you can use x2), and jump that over to the input side of R16(dont keep the input side of R16 soldered in the hole on the board).Now the pin on the DB37 that was designated for fast idle, will now be your fan control, without having to put together any more hardware. Same goes for the fuel pump control relay circuit. The board also has the resistor/transistor for controlling the fuel pump relay, so if you just use the stock ECU for fuel pump control, you would now have 2 circuits already available to drive 2 separate 12volt relays

With the Extra code though, you can use led 18 for fan control, and x2 for water injection. Not sure if you need the resistor/transistor circuit if you use led 18 for fan control though, since led 18 already is driven by a transistor...

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

yes i was doing some reading on transistors and realized that. Why does the Megasquirt schematic show an output for a fan control if the transistor circuit is not built in to the board to control the relay? I would expect this to be included since Fan control is pretty basic necessity for a standalone.

Terry

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)