I need the bolt that bolts through the idler pulley and into the block. Not the one with the brackets and tensioner but the single one. I need this asap and satin wants me to pay 100 dollars for the whole assembly.

20.00 shipped for the bolt and the piece it screws into.

Terry

I think i may have worded it wrong. It is the tensioner that bolts into the block. It is between the front cam and the water pump. I have a brand new pulley just need the bolt that goes through the center of it and into the block.

ok is it the pully that connects to the hydraulic tensioner. if so which bolt there are 2, one holds the pivoting bracket to the block and another that holds the pully to the pivoting bracket.

FYI: the bolt that holds the pully to the pivoting bracket is just a regular bolt. I know i have the one you need. now the bolt that holds the bracket to the block is a large shoulder bolt. I have both.

Terry

It is not the one with the bracket or pivoting tensioner. It is just a single pulley that bolts to the block. There is just one bolt that kinda has a sleave that it rolls on.

None of mine have had that sleeve. The bearing has the inner race already in it. sorry i cant help.

hey maybe you are right. I think it doesnt have the sleave. I am thinking of the pivoting piece. I do need just the bolt with out the sleave but its just the pulley center bolt. Sorry man. I just know that it broke but i havent dug in yet to remove it

someone please find one for me.

If you want me to mail you a regular grade 8 bolt i can but why not just tear it apart and go to the local hardware store for one.

If you want just send me your address and 2.00 for shipping and i'll sent it saturday if i can or monday morn at the latest.

Terry

There is an IDLER pulley, which bolts to the cylinder head, and that is just one single pulley, with a normal grade 10.9 bolt. Now, there is the tensioner bracket pulley also. The pulley is on a pivoting arm, that is attached to a metal bracket that bolts to the block. One bolt through the center of the pulley, and one bolt that goes through the pivoting arm that holds the pulley. The pivoting arm bolt is known to break, and its not a normal bolt. If this is the bolt that is broken, GET A NEW BRACKET/pulley assembly from the dealer. You are really not supposed to remove that special bolt, or even instal a new one. Thats really one bolt i would not mess around with, because if that breaks when the motor is running, then the timing belt comes off, and you will bend valves..If that pivot bolt is the one that is broken, you really should suck it up and buy a new bracket/pulley assembly. Now if its just that single idler pulley bolt, then go to a hardware store and get the proper sized grade 10.9 bolt..Dont forget to use loctite on that bolt, and torque to spec

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

um i think that was stated already..... There is nothing in any proceedure or TSB stating that bolt is not to be removed. Matt you have a rebuilt forged block in your car right? did the machine shop clean the block with the time covers ect still on it? Not to start a petty debate but you sound liek another member on this board that give out crap info...you know who!

Of course as matt did state common sense is needed when dealign with any timing component including the shoulder bolt that the tensioner pully bracket pivots on.

For the record i have every bolt in the timing cover so whichever one if broken i can sent it to you or you can buy it from the dealer.

Terry

haha yeah i know..I could have sworn that i read that in the service manual..hmm maybe i'll have to look..Anyway, from personal experience, the dealership doesnt sell that pivot bolt separately from the bracket..It has a special threadlocking compound on it, and is torqued to some rated spec, which idont have. I'd be really scared to take that bolt out and put one in...at lest for me anyway

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Thanks guys. It is just the single idler pulley bolt. Anyways i will tear it apart and find out which ones i need. The idler pulley did break while i was driving but i didnt hear any noise it just stalled and i kept rolling it over but it didnt do any thing. So i am hopeing that i didnt bend anything.