#24427, "Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" Jun-18-04 02:08 PM by GhEttOrAiD
Well, apparently my lugs actually taper, that is, they get larger right near the hub...this has made it impossible to install this GSX brake kit i got from Spooledupracing. I tried myself, and WheelWorks had a crack at it, same conclusion.
I called up satan to confirm, they also believe that my lugs should NOT taper in this manner. From what I've read, I just need a large hammer to both remove and install these lugs. Does anyone have any personal experience with this?
I'm also a little concerned that switching to straight lugs that dont taper could... somehow make my hub obsolete. i.e... maybe the hub NEEDS the lugs to be a larger diameter.... Plus... I'm not sure I'm entirely comfortable working with large blunt imprecise tools when dealing in such a critical area!
#24428, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 0
Even though you told me to "shut the fuck up" i will help you out!
I have seen tapered studs (if thats what you really mean) on other manufacturs. Kinda sounds like someone replaced yours with the wrong ones, who knows. All you really need to do is remove your calipers/brackets and strike each Stud once with a big hammer. They should pop right out. Now keep in mind you need to rotate the hub so the stud you are hitting is where the caliper is supposed to be. If you have to hit the studs a couple times dont be alarmed. You will see whyyou have to rotate the hub as you go when you get it apart and look at the access you have to the back of the studs. Use an open lug with a few heavy washers to tighten the new studs into the hub.
There should be no reason you will have to change your hub out. If you feel you do i have rebuilt ones but you shouldnt.
Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges
#24430, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 1
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon Even though you told me to "shut the fuck up" i will help you out! I have seen tapered studs (if thats what you really mean) on other manufacturs. Kinda sounds like someone replaced yours with the wrong ones, who knows. All you really need to do is remove your calipers/brackets and strike each Stud once with a big hammer. They should pop right out. Now keep in mind you need to rotate the hub so the stud you are hitting is where the caliper is supposed to be. If you have to hit the studs a couple times dont be alarmed. You will see whyyou have to rotate the hub as you go when you get it apart and look at the access you have to the back of the studs. Use an open lug with a few heavy washers to tighten the new studs into the hub. There should be no reason you will have to change your hub out. If you feel you do i have rebuilt ones but you shouldnt. Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)
ahhh yeah that sounds easy
theres no risk of like... what i mentioned regarding the hub REQUIRING these larger studs? How do they fit in? Are they recessed at all?
thanks!
Dont remember telling you to stfu... just ah... lol
#24432, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 2
Well the hubs shouldnt have been modified if that is the stud that really did come with the car. Now if someoen did switch suds and drilled out the hub then you never know but i cant see anyone going through all that hassel for a wrong or different stud. Do this: Pick up 10 studs or get them from a junkyard....easy to get and pocket, the ones on a 1g might be the same. Pop one of yours out and test fit the correct stud. you will see on the stud the splines that cause the press fit, you should not be able to put them in by hand, it will require some type of force as previously discussed. Then you are fine.
Picture would be great but unnessasary. you should be fine just changing out the studs. I am really curoius as to the size of the taper.....never seen any installed on an import compact car before..mostly trucks du to the large drums on the rear but we are talking 1" dia stud too...lol
Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges
#24433, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon Well the hubs shouldnt have been modified if that is the stud that really did come with the car. Now if someoen did switch suds and drilled out the hub then you never know but i cant see anyone going through all that hassel for a wrong or different stud. Do this: Pick up 10 studs or get them from a junkyard....easy to get and pocket, the ones on a 1g might be the same. Pop one of yours out and test fit the correct stud. you will see on the stud the splines that cause the press fit, you should not be able to put them in by hand, it will require some type of force as previously discussed. Then you are fine. Picture would be great but unnessasary. you should be fine just changing out the studs. I am really curoius as to the size of the taper.....never seen any installed on an import compact car before..mostly trucks du to the large drums on the rear but we are talking 1" dia stud too...lol Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)
if it is in fact a taper, its VERY slight. like you wouldnt even notice it if you saw it in real life...
#24434, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 3
Well not sure what mitsu was referring to exacly, i can assume but we know where that goes. I have installed mine when they were broken and when rebuilding the hubs i have now.....all the studs are the same, not a bit of taper other than the splines that press in. You dont need to heat the studs at all just a good wack with a hammer. You can thread a lug on the end so you dont take the risk of mushrooming them at all or miss and hit another, this way you know they are perfect if you want spares (good to have). if the taper is that small have you tried cleaning out the rotor holes at all...maybe you have some corrosion (if they are used). If they are new you could ream the hole if its that small a difference. I wouldnt, junkyard would only cost you an hour including your drive time to get studs.
Heat expansion is usually referred to when dealing with the proper metal or manufacturing process in the stud quality. For example the studs in a 26000 lbs hydraulic truck are hardened to a higher grade then say our 2600lb passenger vehicle. Thats the only thing i can think mitsu was talking about unless the tech was trying to get you to bring your car to them. (Baffle with bullshit technique)
Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges
#24435, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 6
Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon Well not sure what mitsu was referring to exacly, i can assume but we know where that goes. I have installed mine when they were broken and when rebuilding the hubs i have now.....all the studs are the same, not a bit of taper other than the splines that press in. You dont need to heat the studs at all just a good wack with a hammer. You can thread a lug on the end so you dont take the risk of mushrooming them at all or miss and hit another, this way you know they are perfect if you want spares (good to have). if the taper is that small have you tried cleaning out the rotor holes at all...maybe you have some corrosion (if they are used). If they are new you could ream the hole if its that small a difference. I wouldnt, junkyard would only cost you an hour including your drive time to get studs. Heat expansion is usually referred to when dealing with the proper metal or manufacturing process in the stud quality. For example the studs in a 26000 lbs hydraulic truck are hardened to a higher grade then say our 2600lb passenger vehicle. Thats the only thing i can think mitsu was talking about unless the tech was trying to get you to bring your car to them. (Baffle with bullshit technique) Terry 96 Eagle talon ESI Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges 97 Eclipse Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)
Yeah I shouldnt have zoned out during that spiel... busy at work so i couldnt devote resources to bullshit detection
theyre brand new rotors, and I'd rather not just "bandage" the situation anyway. I'd also be afraid of doing any form of machining on the rotor, I'm sure its not as bad as making your own DRILLED rotors but...it seems to me that its in the same vein...
#24436, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 7
One more thing...Do i have to worry about breaking anything when I hammer? I dont mean if i miss, I just mean is there risk of bending something that shouldnt be bent...
#24449, "RE: Is there any special... "technique" to removing and installing wheel lugs?" In response to Reply # 0
for future reference, if anyone searches+finds this thread... it really is that easy, my old studs popped out after 1-2 hits. just rotate stud you're working on to the cutout part of the dust shield where the caliper would be.
