my first mod completed was the cutting of the dump tube. sounded like it made a huge difference while in my garage, but on the road it went back to barely any "woosh."

i really don't get why vfaq.com tells you to remove the intake tubing when you can just take off the cbv to intake tube connector off and remove the dump tube from there...it took me like 10 minutes to finish without removing the intake tubing.

i also order a k&n filter today so i'll put that on tomorrow. but i was wondering how do you make the intake from wobbling all over without the filter box. do i have to make my own braket?

next:
-new bov (probably with hard UICP)
-boost contoller w/boost guage
-255lph fp
-A/F ratio guage
(egt after new manifold from below items)

then after i pay for plates and get more money:
-3" exhaust
-S16g with ported manifold and install kit
-probably hahn SMIC with hard lower ICP
-lsd
-either 550cc or 625cc injectors
-safc
sound good so far?

now a few more questions
-am i safe with stock motor...can't it handle 450hp or so?
-do you recommend a new fuel rail?
-do you recommend a new intake mani?
-what is the size of a stock TB?
-and what does the fuel rewire kit do?(i know what is, but what does it benefit?)
-sorry for all the questions

thanks ALOT! for any advice.(besides search FOOLS!! :p )

There's another freebies also you can do:
Removing the restrictor from the BCS will get you another 1-1.5 psi of boost.
future list sounds good. I wouldn't worry about the pump yet until you get new injectors and such.
I would do this:
K&N or other cone filter
UIP w/BOV
Boost guage
rewire stock fuel pump
MBC
Cat back
test pipe/high flow cat
down pipe
pocketlogger
EGT guage
S-AFC

Then, I would do these next few all at the same time:
turbo
injectors
fuel pump

if you do those in order, you'll have what you need when you need it.

Oh, and to answer a few of you ques...
Stock fuel rail is fine*
Stock intake mani is fine*
Stock TB is fine*
**There's a point that you will outgrow these, It shouldn't be for quite awhile.
Rewire basically bypasses the cheesy small ass wire with some good thick stuff that will deliver a nice clean supply of power to your fuel pump when you start adding more boost and need more fuel.

__________________________________________________________
-Tony <--- NOT asian.
'06 Wicked White EVO IX

please dont waste $800 on a hahn smic

______________________________________

11.65 @ 115

cool, thanks. the reason i'm planning on putting in the fuel pump now(or sooner than usual) is becuase i already have it from the kit i was putting on my gs. it won't hurt anything will it?

do you have to keep the cbv to intake tube connector hose on? i know the car almost dies without it, but is there a way around it?

and why not the smic? it's a hell of alot wider than stock and can handle up to 400hp. and it's acually $500. i guess i don't see why not

because you can get a greddy fmic kit for $500(used on ebay or dsmtrader) or you can just buy a supra smic and it will do the same thing for about $100

______________________________________

11.65 @ 115

to answer your question about the K&N intake...it comes with it's own bracket that bolts up to one of the holes that the stock airbox came from. do you have a 1g or 2g?

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX: K&N Filter, John Sheppard built transmission with GVR4 1st gear, autometer boost gauge, "free mods", Greddy type-s BOV, broken shifter

No you can't just remove the BOV dump tube. That is the most common question asked on DSM boards. Just keep it on

The 4G63 is safe to around 400-450hp when properly modified.

Stock TB size on 2Gs is 52mm. You can get a 1g TB which is 60mm as an upgrade.

Stock intake manifold is fine.

Stock fuel rail runs 8's at least. It is fine as well.

Fuel pump rewire kit just runs larger gage wire to the fuel pump from the battery. The larger the wire, the more power can get to the pump. More power, more fuel. Get the idea?


Also, don't feel that you HAVE to go with Hahn just because you used to have a 420a. Hahn makes great products, but there are others out there just as good for a lot less money.

i wanted an upgraded smic as well, but after talking to several people about it, it's a waste of money. Buddy of mine had a hahn smic and when he was on the dyno after a few pulls he said it became heat soked at only 18psi on his ported/clipped big 16g.

______________________________________________________
2003.5 M3
99 M3
99 GST

i took out the BCS restrictor last night after looking into it too. the auto parts store accidently ordered the k&N filter that goes inside the air box so i ordered the fpik, it should be here on saturday. does $117 sound like a good price for the fpik?

(it's a 2g 5-speed for the people wondering)

i don't know what i'll do with the IC now. if i go side mount i'll look into supra. don't know about front mount.

do any of you run greddy profec b's, spec 1 or 2, do you like them?

Get a manual boost controller. $50. Don't pay a penny more for boost control.

www.boostcontroller.com. I have a Hallman and love it.

Also, boost gauge should be the first thing you buy. The factory ones are garbage, so "knowing" boost levels is ultra important.



Also, DO NOT vent the BOV to the atmosphere. Just don't. Hook the recirculation tube back up and leave her there.

It's running again shitheads.

http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=791

HybriDSM@gmail.com ; HybriDSM@hotmail.com

Think for yourself. Question authority does not always mean disagree with authority.

If life were perfect, I'd be Calvin and you'd be Hobbes.

Travis
************
Blue 93 Talon AWD
Best Time 11.9 w/ 104 octane
-Objects in mirror are getting thier asses kicked-