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your EGT's seem fine. your EGT probe is before the turbo on the man1fold, right? 800-900 is what my idle temperature is, sometimes when i'm hardcore downshifting it will go down to around 700. 1500 is perfectly fine, just don't let it go much above 1575 or so. 1600 is where the "you're gonna kill shit real fast" zone begins. remember, all EGT gauges have lag so assume that the tempatures are 25-50 degrees higher when the tempatures are going up. personally, i will let off the boost when the tempatures reach around 1575 or so. this happens pretty fasy for me with the 1G SMIC at 12 psi and .93 for oxygen sensor voltages. i really need to get a FMIC.
speaking of FMIC's, i bet yours looks really pimp! wish i had one.
yes, the accel/HRC "raped pig" fuel pump is indeed quite loud. you'll have to live with it, the noize seemed to go away once fuel pressures go up. for me at least. installing a higher flow in-tank pump will reduce the sound level of that blasted thing to a reasonable level. i have some type of ebay walbro pump (no idea on the flow level, but i didn't care. it said "walbro" and it's better than stock therefore it's all good) and it definately made a huge difference with the fuel pump sound. at idle when my fuel pressures are at like 15-18 psi, the pumps are loudest, and you can hear the 2 different pumps humming at 2 different tones. it sounds pretty cool actually.
EDIT: yeah, the 30lb (310 cc/min) injectors would be a very good investment. you will be able to run much lower fuel pressures. instead of having 120 psi of fuel at 10 psi of boost, you'll only need like 80 or 90 psi of fuel, i think. don't quote me on that though, i'm just guessing.
something else to "hold you over" until the winter rebuild? hmmm... turbo grind cams would be fun. the 2.5" ERT downpipe would be good too. get rid of your cat if you haven't done so already and if you can cook up an innovative and sketchey way of passing smog if so required. but first, get a S-FMU in addition to the stuff that you're already planning on getting. the S-FMU is probably the best fully adjustable regulator out there (next to the Aeromotive 1:1 unit), hands down. it holds rock steady fuel pressures, unlike the CrapTech unit that comes with the HRC kit. i blame that thing for the death of my stock piston ring landings. don't forget to buy the bleed/needle valve and the special 10/32 NPT fitting that goes into the bleed/needle valve enabling you to put on a check valve so it doesn't suck in air in vacuum. this will allow you to adjust your boosted fuel curve much like the needle valve on the top of the CrapTech FPR supplied with the HRC kit.  2016 WRX STi Limited (current) 2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated) 1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold) old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)
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