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confussion lol
Thanks for doing the research for the numbers. 
Dunno if this is useless info, but I watched my last smog test (on an actual legal car) VERY carefully, and the tech was cool about explaining what he was putting into the computer, etc. Anyways, here's the process, feel free to make corrections or add steps!
The tech just scans the barcoded vin sticker for your car (or types it in but this takes longer). Borrowed barcode might be one possibility for beating the system? dunno.
The computer comes up with, say, "1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 2.0 NT CAL" you'll get "FED" and laxer requirements for non-cali cars. The tech will sometimes verify this info with other stickers on your car. My tech didn't.
It then pulls up a checklist of all the equipped smog related items for the tech to visually inspect. It's just a text list, the tech is expected to follow the OBD sticker for equipment placement, and just know what it all looks like. The checklist is built into the system, varys between model years, and is based solely on OEM specs. *If you used to have an air filter below the battery, there better still be one there, or have a CARB sticker for the new intake!*
Once the tech checks PASS off for all your visuals, the computer then takes your gas cap to pressure test it. Then they have you start the car, roll it onto the dyno, and they hook it up to a timing sensor. They put the sniffer in your exhaust, and check the inputs on the computer.
They then connect to the DMV database via modem and download the current pollution map for your car. This map is hard set and just has the values for pass/fail and requirements. (ie. engine must idle at at least 830 rpm, timing +14, NOx 14.2 @ 1200 rpm etc)
The test gets underway, and the computer just counts the inputs. Once the test completes, the computer runs the entire log through the pass/fail rules it downloaded. If you're out of spec for more than a few seconds on any parameter you will fail that parameter and of course the whole smog check.
Single best way to pass: Get a "Pre-Test"!!!!! It costs about half as much as a regular smog check, and if you fail the info does NOT go to the DMV. They just tell you and you leave. This way you can fix something that's broken, or find a tech that's more lenient/knowledgeable. One place did "lie" and said I would pass, and I didn't. Best to spend a couple $20s at a few different garages to make DAMN SURE you will pass before they send your VIN to the DMV. Also ask for your pretest numbers (they cant print them out tho) and your requirements. Ie, if you're testing at 8ppm and the max is 9ppm, fix it before you retest!
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