Hi guys, I am always trying to look ahead, and well smog check is going to be comming up again. I reciently found that when going to your local smog shop, if you have misplaced your CARB sticker you can try and give them a paper with one on there. If you go to the california carb site, you can find a list of all qualified CARB exempt parts. For 2g's there is an HKS replacement turbo, and a GReddy kit listed up on there....
So if you throw up your CARB numbers to them, this may have them look past the fact that you were not turbo to begin with... So just start BS'in your way thru the smog check. However, When they throw the vin up into the machine I don't know if it comes down and says NON-TURBO, or if you throw the number up there when it is a factory turbo car, it comes back and says TURBO, or if there is a spot that is checked or unchecked depending on the number you put in... Or if a model had a turbo option, then it comes back and says this should or should not have a turbo on it.... Well I really don't know but I think if you can keep him occupied thru the whole proccess and have him just get down to the test part of it, he will look past finalities like that... hopefully :)
GReddy = D-397-3 this can explain your metal pipes other than plastic, and your FMIC.
HKS = D-186-20, I have no idea what you want with them, but it is a good way to trick your nemisis into submission by confussion!
nemisis = smog tech
submission = passing your car
confussion = I don't even know what I said.


so there you have a couple numbers, if we could get a copy of the stickers I am sure we could make some for ourselves to put under the hood ::Shrugs::

confussion :nono lol

Thanks for doing the research for the numbers. :)

Dunno if this is useless info, but I watched my last smog test (on an actual legal car) VERY carefully, and the tech was cool about explaining what he was putting into the computer, etc. Anyways, here's the process, feel free to make corrections or add steps!

The tech just scans the barcoded vin sticker for your car (or types it in but this takes longer). Borrowed barcode might be one possibility for beating the system? dunno.

The computer comes up with, say, "1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 2.0 NT CAL" you'll get "FED" and laxer requirements for non-cali cars. The tech will sometimes verify this info with other stickers on your car. My tech didn't.

It then pulls up a checklist of all the equipped smog related items for the tech to visually inspect. It's just a text list, the tech is expected to follow the OBD sticker for equipment placement, and just know what it all looks like. The checklist is built into the system, varys between model years, and is based solely on OEM specs. *If you used to have an air filter below the battery, there better still be one there, or have a CARB sticker for the new intake!*

Once the tech checks PASS off for all your visuals, the computer then takes your gas cap to pressure test it. Then they have you start the car, roll it onto the dyno, and they hook it up to a timing sensor. They put the sniffer in your exhaust, and check the inputs on the computer.

They then connect to the DMV database via modem and download the current pollution map for your car. This map is hard set and just has the values for pass/fail and requirements. (ie. engine must idle at at least 830 rpm, timing +14, NOx 14.2 @ 1200 rpm etc)

The test gets underway, and the computer just counts the inputs. Once the test completes, the computer runs the entire log through the pass/fail rules it downloaded. If you're out of spec for more than a few seconds on any parameter you will fail that parameter and of course the whole smog check.


Single best way to pass: Get a "Pre-Test"!!!!! It costs about half as much as a regular smog check, and if you fail the info does NOT go to the DMV. They just tell you and you leave. This way you can fix something that's broken, or find a tech that's more lenient/knowledgeable. One place did "lie" and said I would pass, and I didn't. Best to spend a couple $20s at a few different garages to make DAMN SURE you will pass before they send your VIN to the DMV. Also ask for your pretest numbers (they cant print them out tho) and your requirements. Ie, if you're testing at 8ppm and the max is 9ppm, fix it before you retest!

Yeah another reason why california is so anal.

For the last 2 week, I had been worried sick over passing smog on the convertible. Since it is a "Test only" order, any failure is automatically sent to the DMV. The smog test can only be performed at Test only centers, which limits us to friendly places that we can bring the vehicle to.

Luckly, the smog tech over looked the 2.75" DP, 3" high flow cat, 3" apexi catback, and thought the greddy type-s is part of the injen intake assembly.

He did ask for the EO number of the intake though.

Anyways to make a long story short, the car failed last weekend due to me clearing DTC memory with my datalogger prior to testing. The reason the car failed to initialize/recoginize a OBD II self test within the ECU, and the SMOG machine caught it. Hence functional portion failed causing a automatic failed test.

the following week, we disconnected the battery, and drove it many times. On the morning of the test, I drove into San Bernardino from Corona at speeds of 110-115 on the 91 FW in hopes of lighting off the cat, and keeping it worm. the process worked.

The car managed a 46ppm on HC levels when 54ppm is max. CO, and NO levels are well withing limit.

I'm just glad we will not have to deal with this for another 2 years, and thankful that I do not have to remove all mods for the smog referee.

I think the SoCal members need to all get together, chip in E.O. stickers, and discuss this matter.

Anyways lets make this a topic of discussion at the next meet. Especially the NT-turbo people.

thanx for viewing.

I smell Baja Fresh comming up... 2 week warning... Check announcments.