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Sonic:
This is my setup, although i have the S16G, not the Star kit, but this may help. I use the 2.72" disk/ring in the SFMU, a bleed valve, and a vacume check valve attached to the bleed valve. I run 25 psi at idle vacume( 17hg's). This on the 315's gave me very good fuel trim numbers, and no rich CEL at all. I have about 1 to 1 1/2 turns out on the bleed valve to fine tune the boosted fuel pressure for 7 to 8 psi, and it gets plenty of fuel. We can probably run a safe 10 psi on the 315's easy with greater fuel pressures. I'd say 12 psi max boost on these injects. I would start off with the 2.72" disk, then if you have the bleed valve attached( its an option on the SFMU), keep it closed so no boost pressure bleeds out to lower your boosted fuel pressure. If you are running way too rich, then start opening up the bleed valve to lower the fuel pressure, doing so a little at a time until your EGT's look good. Tune more by EGT's than what an A/F gauge is telling you. Dont use the SAFC either, too much timing will result. Shoot for EGT's around 1525-1550 max at 8 to 10 psi of boost.
The optional bleed valve is a great part to have, as this makes fine tuning fuel pressures easy and accurate. You can get it from Vortech directly, or from HRC. Its the same exact valve from HRC, that they use on their Cartech FPR. Use a short piece of vac line connected to the bleed vavle with the vacume check valve connected, so that no vacume can be drawn back into the SFMU when under vacume conditions. That can alter your fuel pressure if not used. You will only need the check valve if you have the bleed vavle opened some.
 13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
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