I have the 30lbs injectors and I have heard countless times that you don't need an AFC to run these properly. If that is true, approximately what size disk and spring need to be in the S-FMU and about what should the idle and WOT pressures be set at? TIA

....or is there a way to make the stock ECU run them properly with just changing the disk in the star fmu?

I think you'd be way too rich if you try and run them w/ the stock static pressure. That's why you need the SFMU. I'd start out w/ about 38psi static, ~30psi idle and run the 2.72" disk. If you run 10psi then you'll have about 82psi fuel pressure at WOT. When I had them and idled at 30psi my LTFT was maxxed and my STFT was about -15%. So I think that's a pretty good setting for them.

Thanks. Right now I'm running about 13psi and I'm getting a lot higher timing advance than what I want because of the S-AFC. I am planning on getting the SFMU around christmas time but I just wanted to make sure I knew what settings to use before I even got it. The 440's will go in after that along with the MSD ignition.

Hey Jason, i lost my laptop privileges, wanna come up some day or i can come down and we can get an idea of my fuel trims after I get my 450's in???



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

Sure man. I'm up in Wichita at least once a weekend. Just let me know when. Or you could come down here. Doesn't matter to me.

i have a question. i have a ner (1 of the few) that i have most of the stuff. anywayz i have seen that 30 lb ford injectors can be run without an afc that is what i am wanting to do for now. does anyone have any clue what disc that i have in the fmu? and what do u think that the max psi (boost) that u can run on these without an afc? i am still trying to learn all this stuff so i appreciate the insite. we are wanting to run more than 15psi thru this motor and yes i have all the forged goodies so it would be silly not to use it to its potential.
ben

>>>we are wanting to run more than 15psi thru this motor<<<

Then don't get the #30's. They are only good to like 13psi unless you want insane fuel pressures.

If i get the stage 2 hrc kit, then get the s-fmu, better fuel pump, and 315 injectors, would it be alright to run 10psi since i won't have the rebuilt bottom end, yet. Or stay low, i want to be able to run 8psi daily and run 10psi at the track probably every other weekend. Will this be alright or should i not go to 10psi, please help me with this area b/c i am still trying to learn on how to get the right setup after i get the internals, but for now i want 10psi.

Sonic:

This is my setup, although i have the S16G, not the Star kit, but this may help. I use the 2.72" disk/ring in the SFMU, a bleed valve, and a vacume check valve attached to the bleed valve. I run 25 psi at idle vacume( 17hg's). This on the 315's gave me very good fuel trim numbers, and no rich CEL at all. I have about 1 to 1 1/2 turns out on the bleed valve to fine tune the boosted fuel pressure for 7 to 8 psi, and it gets plenty of fuel. We can probably run a safe 10 psi on the 315's easy with greater fuel pressures. I'd say 12 psi max boost on these injects. I would start off with the 2.72" disk, then if you have the bleed valve attached( its an option on the SFMU), keep it closed so no boost pressure bleeds out to lower your boosted fuel pressure. If you are running way too rich, then start opening up the bleed valve to lower the fuel pressure, doing so a little at a time until your EGT's look good. Tune more by EGT's than what an A/F gauge is telling you. Dont use the SAFC either, too much timing will result. Shoot for EGT's around 1525-1550 max at 8 to 10 psi of boost.

The optional bleed valve is a great part to have, as this makes fine tuning fuel pressures easy and accurate. You can get it from Vortech directly, or from HRC. Its the same exact valve from HRC, that they use on their Cartech FPR. Use a short piece of vac line connected to the bleed vavle with the vacume check valve connected, so that no vacume can be drawn back into the SFMU when under vacume conditions. That can alter your fuel pressure if not used. You will only need the check valve if you have the bleed vavle opened some.