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Yeah, the block fits no problem. I will relay my experiences, and only my experiences thus far, rather then guessing or relaying secondhand information. I can't risk it not being perfect information, and having me be called a liar or a con. The 2.4 is only 1" taller then the 2.0. .5" wider at the bedplate, and 1" longer at the bedplate. It definately fits in the engine bay. I have a 1998 Stratus block, with a mechanical tensioner that I would like to replace with a hydraulic one at some point. I know how to do this, but I don't want to be accused of giving misinformation so that I can sell stuff, so all I can say is that you need some other stuff to make a hydraulic tensioner work. The mechanical tensioner tends to actually drop tension when the intake cam rounds a roller rocker and the belt is no longer fighting the valve springs. But this is an entirely different diversion.
On my block, my alternator bolted to the Stratus bracket, no problem. My AC bolts to the Stratus bracket with slight modification to the bracket: I used a hacksaw to cut one of the bolt legs off (no, I do not sell hacksaws), and then ground down a rib so that the boltholes for the compressor and the bracket mate up. This bracket bolts to the block flawlessly. The power steering, however, is a little bit more work. It requires cutting the leg for the bolthole off of your power steering bracket and fabricating a plate to go against the block. Then measure where the pump needs to go in relation to the belts, so that they line up, and mount the bracket to the plate you just made.
This is all fine and dandy, until you notice that you just bolted the alternator to the front of the block and the power steering pump to the back. The pump needs to be re-plumbed to the new location, and the alternator needs the wires running to it lengthened. Not a big job for either.
So yes, I would go for the 220 dollar internals if that is what you can get them for. If the price total is over 400 dollars, there are better aftermarket alternatives.
Now, as far as mounting the motor into the bay, I have yet to mount it up, but I know that there are going to be some interesting problems related to the passenger side mount and the crossmember/oil pan. The mount looks like it will sit 1" too high if you try to bolt the Eclipse mount to the Stratus bracket. Might be able to cut it or flip it upside down, but I have no idea yet, don't quote me on any of this, yadda yadda yadda etc etc... The oil pan that you must use is a 2.4L oil pan. If you remove your balance shafts, you should baffle the oil pan to keep your 6+ quart sump from sloshing away from the pickup. I have usually seen pans baffled to 3 quarts. I am trying to get more information on this, though. This means that you must either fabricate a crossmember so that your front motor mount fits, or else you need to make a custom oil pan. The 2.0 oil pan will not bolt up. I do not sell oil pans, crossmembers, or side motor mounts. If I did, I would have some way to install this motor now, but I don't, so I have nothing to sell. Transmission bolts right up, but the sensors on the block need to be swapped from the 2.4 to the 2.0 ones, because the harness connections are different. The 2.0 head bolts on, and the exhaust downpipe needs to be lengthened by 2" or so if you use the 2.4L oil pan. Wow, this post became a long novel, but I hope that this helps somebody. If it doesn't help you, please don't post saying that I am trying to trick you. I am only human, and I have not mastered this swap. I am in no way trying to trick, lie,con, make money, sell stuff, or clean the grime off of the floors with this information. Please take it as it is.
Thanks.
-=B-= <=== No, I don't sell that.
Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.
Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate.
Me: Can I put that in my sig?
Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.
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