I did call today just for giggles and sure enough 53 bux for the piston/rod no matter what. Is this a too good to be true option? I'm in college so I can't really afford to throw away 220 bux (not like anyone else does either). But doing the math for forged 2.0 stuff, I'm ahead by a long shot even after I find the block. I have really good machinest near me that won't charge crap for decking(bring up comp) and honing. I have 72,xxx miles now on my stock internals and they are going to get tired soon. How much of a fuel system change would there be from 30lb injectors and S-AFC and my 12:1 disc and how much boost are we talking at 8.5:1 comp along with what kind of HP numbers whould you expect to see at 15 psi? I'm looking for a daily driver engine and I'll be nice to it, but I want to put a hurting on it at the track. So long story short, is it worth the 220 bux now or forget it and stay with the traditional eagle rod and JG piston set-up?

fwdperformance.com sells the 2.5L rods.

I wonder how much the 2.4L pistons only are. The 2.5L rods are $180 with ARP bolts.

Dodge will NOT seperate the combo. It's about 5-10 dollars per rod/piston to have the pin pushed out and back onto another piston. I'm just now starting to look into this so I don't know too much about this engine. You want to be careful about which rods get pushed to which pistons b/c of the wrist pin location.

OK I have a tad more info but more confusion to go along.
1) oil pan-- which one fits Eclipse?
2) 2.5 turbo II Rods-- Do they fit 2.4 crank w/ the PT pistons?
3) I'm I dreaming, or can I boost 15 lbs on a 2.4 w/ $220 worth of internals?
Please, I'm ready to buy these rods/pistons (esp while they are cheap) and start saving for the 2.4 short block.

how much is the 2.4 short block and does it bolt right up to our head etc....plus um, what kinda gains come from this?

Here in KS people are common on running into stuff, so a short block from a yard is cheap for me. I know that a member "Skrilla" had done it. He's sometimes hit and miss here but "The1Bill" is also doing it. He's figured some ways ,that I hope he'll share, on to get everything to fit. I've read some old posts where he's ran into oil pan/crossmember fitment probs and a making a new motor mount. I'd imagine it would be an easy 225 FWHP w/ the 7.8:1 piston/rod combo at 15psi and some good tuning. Maybe bump the comp by decking and see some better numbers. Keep in mind that the swap I want to do is for the cheap rods and NOT a stock Cloud car 2.4 swap w/ the higher compression. Either way, I'd like to know if this is really feasible or am I wasting my time and money if I buy these $52 internals.

Erik, where did you call, do u have their number...local dealers here have already jacked up the price to over 200 a rod/piston combo

Yeah, the block fits no problem. I will relay my experiences, and only my experiences thus far, rather then guessing or relaying secondhand information. I can't risk it not being perfect information, and having me be called a liar or a con. The 2.4 is only 1" taller then the 2.0. .5" wider at the bedplate, and 1" longer at the bedplate. It definately fits in the engine bay. I have a 1998 Stratus block, with a mechanical tensioner that I would like to replace with a hydraulic one at some point. I know how to do this, but I don't want to be accused of giving misinformation so that I can sell stuff, so all I can say is that you need some other stuff to make a hydraulic tensioner work. The mechanical tensioner tends to actually drop tension when the intake cam rounds a roller rocker and the belt is no longer fighting the valve springs. But this is an entirely different diversion.
On my block, my alternator bolted to the Stratus bracket, no problem. My AC bolts to the Stratus bracket with slight modification to the bracket: I used a hacksaw to cut one of the bolt legs off (no, I do not sell hacksaws), and then ground down a rib so that the boltholes for the compressor and the bracket mate up. This bracket bolts to the block flawlessly. The power steering, however, is a little bit more work. It requires cutting the leg for the bolthole off of your power steering bracket and fabricating a plate to go against the block. Then measure where the pump needs to go in relation to the belts, so that they line up, and mount the bracket to the plate you just made.
This is all fine and dandy, until you notice that you just bolted the alternator to the front of the block and the power steering pump to the back. The pump needs to be re-plumbed to the new location, and the alternator needs the wires running to it lengthened. Not a big job for either.
So yes, I would go for the 220 dollar internals if that is what you can get them for. If the price total is over 400 dollars, there are better aftermarket alternatives.
Now, as far as mounting the motor into the bay, I have yet to mount it up, but I know that there are going to be some interesting problems related to the passenger side mount and the crossmember/oil pan. The mount looks like it will sit 1" too high if you try to bolt the Eclipse mount to the Stratus bracket. Might be able to cut it or flip it upside down, but I have no idea yet, don't quote me on any of this, yadda yadda yadda etc etc... The oil pan that you must use is a 2.4L oil pan. If you remove your balance shafts, you should baffle the oil pan to keep your 6+ quart sump from sloshing away from the pickup. I have usually seen pans baffled to 3 quarts. I am trying to get more information on this, though. This means that you must either fabricate a crossmember so that your front motor mount fits, or else you need to make a custom oil pan. The 2.0 oil pan will not bolt up. I do not sell oil pans, crossmembers, or side motor mounts. If I did, I would have some way to install this motor now, but I don't, so I have nothing to sell. Transmission bolts right up, but the sensors on the block need to be swapped from the 2.4 to the 2.0 ones, because the harness connections are different. The 2.0 head bolts on, and the exhaust downpipe needs to be lengthened by 2" or so if you use the 2.4L oil pan. Wow, this post became a long novel, but I hope that this helps somebody. If it doesn't help you, please don't post saying that I am trying to trick you. I am only human, and I have not mastered this swap. I am in no way trying to trick, lie,con, make money, sell stuff, or clean the grime off of the floors with this information. Please take it as it is.
Thanks.
-=B-= <=== No, I don't sell that.

Thats a lot of good information man! I really want to do this swap down the road so please keep us updated on your progress.

I wouldn't have asked you for help if I had thought you were going to con me! I think I'm going to make my purchase, and I'll post the phone number up later of the dealer that quoted me 53.xx dollars per assembly.

I think he was just referring to different post where he had been accused of conning people about the 2.4 swap, but that has been worked out.

Yeah, forgive the sarcastic remarks in my last post. I tried to get the information that I have out without the liability if anything is wrong with it. I think that I will add one phrase to my signiture: Your results may vary.
-=B-=

The place where I got them, Molle Automotive, could order them in but they only showed 8 in Atlanta and another 2 national warehouse. I have the reciept in front of me. Part# 4884247AC $53.70 ea. with my total before tax $214.80. With Kansas tax it came out to be $230.48.
They said they'll continue to offer the price until told different. Their phone number is: 620-231-2080. Keep in mind that this is a pretty small town so make sure you tell them that you're not me or I'm going to recieve phone calls to get my rods again! I'm not sure if they'll ship, so ask first. I hope this sh*t works b/c now I'm in the hunt for a block!

OK now that I've ordered the rods and pistons, there is word of them NOT fitting b/c of interference w/ the 2.0 Eclipse head. You can't turn rods around on the crank b/c of the angles. So what to do now?