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Well i just recently did this to my car. I was boosting about 6.5 psi, and i used the dark spring and 2.72" disk/ring setup. It worked very well at that boost. When i would hit 7 or 7.5 psi, it would run a little to lean, not enough fuel pressure. So now at my 8 psi, i am using the 3.62" disk, and dark spring, along with the optional bleed valve. You will need the bleed valve to bleed off some of the boost becuase the 3.62" disk will rise the fuel pressure to quickly.But if you will only run 6 psi then the 2.72" disk will be perfect, any higher than that, i'd go with the larger disk and the bleed valve. I just got my new disk and bleed valve just in today actually. I had orderd the bleed vavle from vortech, costs 28 bucks. Here's the kicker. Its the SAME bleed valve thats on the HRC FPR! It will just screw in the bleed port on the SFMU. Now you can use the HRC bleed vavle and check valve if you like, but i didnt use a check valve, as Vortech says its not needed, but when you open the bleed vavle, it will leak vacum at idle, and change your idle fuel pressure, so the more you open the bleed valve, the higher the fuel pressure goes,so you just turn down the static adj screw to get it back to normal. Since you said you had the Billet FPR, i'm not too sure if that one has the bleed valve on it, but it might. And the larger disk from Vortech costs 3 bucks. Hope this helps, as i just did this today, so its all fresh in the head Car pulls damn nice too BTW. Oh yeah, you will need AN 6 FEMALE hose fittings to connect the fuel lines to the SFMU. I needed to get a "T" hose barb fitting to split the line so i could hook up the fuel pressure gaguge, as you wont be able to use the HRC T fitting. Get some small hose clamps to tighten all the fuel lines down also.
 13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
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