Ok My Head gasket is gone along with it maybe a piston in number 2. I was wanting to just fix the HG and build later but the guy at the shop says fixing the HG with bad rings or piston in number 2 may cause the number 2 cylinder to quit all tgether. So he quoted me 6K for parts, labor, and machine work for rebuilding the top and bottom end, that includes the Howell bottom end and bored out, all gaskets, valve job, or valve train????, some kind of angle job, cams and everything else... First of all is this a fair price and is it worth it...
My pockets aren't right so I can't afford the 6 G's right now so I thought what about doing just the bottom and he says thats not a good idea either cause it will over work the top end and not beable to breathe like it should be.
Then he mentioned doing all that but not boring .20 over so the price would drop on labor and machine work,............should I do this or is it better to get it bored out since everything will be opened up anyways..
What should I do..............
My only other option is to just let the car sit and save up but I would rather not do that........ I am in a bad position........what can I do???
Mark Dollar Stage 3-4 Turbo See my White Avenger @ WWW.Armond30.com
#16999, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 0
lets add it up... howell bottem kit 1100 howell top end kit 1350 (prices i've been quoted from local shop) 3 angle vavle job 125, and instalation of new parts balance crank, pistons, ect 160 .02 over bore 120 all tope end gaskets from dealer 175
Total so are 3030.00 All thats left is the labor to take it all apart and put it back together, and theres no way it should be another 3g's
I think he's trying to rape you! Call around to different engine shope, custom engine builders, machine shops, ect.. I think you can find a better price.
And you will be fine it you just build the bottom end, that's what almost all the built cars here w/ turbos have done (stock top end)
#17000, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 1
Your mechanic is an idiot.
Build the bottom end, the head and stock valvetrain is built well enough for 7500 RPM, and flows enough under forced induction for 450HP with no other mods. Why mess up a good thing?
______________________________ If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.
'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#17002, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 3
If Armond says don't go there, I would listen to him. Find another shop and just start with the bottom end unless you can afford the top end. HRC is running 11's with a stock top end.
#17004, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 5
good gawd!!!! 6k? shop around mayn. I spent a little over 700.00 in labor costs everytime I rebuilt. And I have a built head that cost me 300.00. Well.. port and polished.. I didn't upgrade the valve train.. just have mild crower regrinds. But I did port match the plenum.. manifolds TB.. all that sheeit. If someone asked me for 6k for a rebuild.. he'd be catching a glimpse of my mighty middle finger all up in his grill!!! cack sacker. just buy the parts you need... eagle rods would prolly suffice.. and shop around for a reputable shop that won't gouge your wallet. You don't have to pay for a name when building a race head. Just go to a machine shop that has been open for years.. they'll give you the works at a fraction of the cost of Gude or JG. I got mine done at Ed Hale in Lakeside Cali. I did have a JG head at one point.. only to find out they put an exhaust valve in an intake port and it didn't seal right. But anyway.. don't even spend that much for a rebuild... you'd feel broke and ripped off.. and people will be laughing at you. If you need resources.. email me.
#17005, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 6
Learn how to type??? See if I typed this right, F*@k YOU!!!!!! Hows that?
But anyway, So if I get the Howell bottom end kit I will be ok? Should I get the .20 bore or just get the standard? If I get it bored that is going to cost a lot to cause it cost more if they have to remove and replace the engine huh?
What would be the most difference of getting bored out and standard?
What would be the average of a total amount for the bottom end kit plus installation with the bore and then without the bore???
Thanks
Oh yeah Super 20 I was just kidding.
Mark Dollar Stage 3-4 Turbo See my White Avenger @ WWW.Armond30.com
#17006, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 7
i believe its just a couple $100-2 max? to bore it? correct me if im wrong cool Michael 99gs- hrc stage 2
Michael 99gs hrc stage 5000 SOLD... 2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)stock what other car should i buy?? hmmm Car info & pictures at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/520269
#17007, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 8
You'll have to remove the engine anyway. That's not a deciding factor. Also, for the record, the overbore is .020 (twenty-thousandths of an inch) not .20 (twenty hundreds of an inch)
The overbore will cost you very little if you take it to a machine shop.
______________________________ If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.
'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco) '95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor) '97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control) '99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater) '13 Evo X (mostly stock) '17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)
#17008, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 9
so it is better to go ahead and do the .020 rather than the standard if only cost a little more......I don't know what how big of a difference it makes, I know it will lower the compression for more boost, but it couldn't allow a whole heck of a lot more boost does it?
Mark Dollar Stage 3-4 Turbo See my White Avenger @ WWW.Armond30.com
#17009, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 10
It's really not for lowering CR. It won't change that. It will very very slightly change your displacement. The purpose of the overbore is to resurface the insides of your cylinders to make sure the piston rings get a nice smooth surface to seal against.
#17011, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 12
good machine shops around here will charge you 40-60 bucks to bore out your cylinders. If you take it to a speed shop.. you'll be paying the middle man because they'll be sending your block to a machine shop anyway.
#17012, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 13
Take your car to another shop--no way should labor cost $3K. It should only take them 20-25 hours to complete. If you don't, yet, have the money to do both the head and bottom end, just do the bottom end first. And definitely, get the .020 overbore. It should only be about $100-$200. Plus, when you want to do the head later, it isn't necessary to yank the engine, so labor won't be as much. The car can still be very fast without a fully prepped head. Shop around for a reputable shop--a shop that will do everything the right way, and for a reasonable price.
___________ Kon C
"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."
#17013, "RE: Building bottom but not the top??????" In response to Reply # 14
good lord,and I thought I got raped.buy the parts yourself,and go to another shop.Or better yet,buy the parts.take it apart yourself.take the head,intk n' ehaust mani to a shop and have it machined.use the saved money for regounded cams,port/polish or other goodies.oooohhh...stroker kit(if it's out).
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