Ok My Head gasket is gone along with it maybe a piston in number 2.
I was wanting to just fix the HG and build later but the guy at the shop says fixing the HG with bad rings or piston in number 2 may cause the number 2 cylinder to quit all tgether.
So he quoted me 6K for parts, labor, and machine work for rebuilding the top and bottom end, that includes the Howell bottom end and bored out, all gaskets, valve job, or valve train????, some kind of angle job, cams and everything else...
First of all is this a fair price and is it worth it...

My pockets aren't right so I can't afford the 6 G's right now so I thought what about doing just the bottom and he says thats not a good idea either cause it will over work the top end and not beable to breathe like it should be.

Then he mentioned doing all that but not boring .20 over so the price would drop on labor and machine work,............should I do this or is it better to get it bored out since everything will be opened up anyways..

What should I do..............

My only other option is to just let the car sit and save up but I would rather not do that........
I am in a bad position........what can I do???

lets add it up...
howell bottem kit 1100
howell top end kit 1350
(prices i've been quoted from local shop)
3 angle vavle job 125, and instalation of new parts
balance crank, pistons, ect 160
.02 over bore 120
all tope end gaskets from dealer 175

Total so are 3030.00
All thats left is the labor to take it all apart and put it back together, and theres no way it should be another 3g's

I think he's trying to rape you! Call around to different engine shope, custom engine builders, machine shops, ect.. I think you can find a better price.

And you will be fine it you just build the bottom end, that's what almost all the built cars here w/ turbos have done (stock top end)

Your mechanic is an idiot.

Build the bottom end, the head and stock valvetrain is built well enough for 7500 RPM, and flows enough under forced induction for 450HP with no other mods. Why mess up a good thing?

ok what about boring out the sylinder to .20 over.
Should I do that or not??

He also said that boring it out along with the port and polish of the top ens will be around 600 if not more...IS that a misconfiguration also????

Thanks guys

I talked to Armond last night ans he knows the guy and then told me to not let him work on my car hehehe

If Armond says don't go there, I would listen to him. Find another shop and just start with the bottom end unless you can afford the top end. HRC is running 11's with a stock top end.

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current status - No 3rd Gear synchro


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yeah, find a different place to do the work, and learn how to type! :-)

good gawd!!!! 6k? shop around mayn. I spent a little over 700.00 in labor costs everytime I rebuilt. And I have a built head that cost me 300.00. Well.. port and polished.. I didn't upgrade the valve train.. just have mild crower regrinds. But I did port match the plenum.. manifolds TB.. all that sheeit. If someone asked me for 6k for a rebuild.. he'd be catching a glimpse of my mighty middle finger all up in his grill!!! cack sacker. just buy the parts you need... eagle rods would prolly suffice.. and shop around for a reputable shop that won't gouge your wallet. You don't have to pay for a name when building a race head. Just go to a machine shop that has been open for years.. they'll give you the works at a fraction of the cost of Gude or JG. I got mine done at Ed Hale in Lakeside Cali. I did have a JG head at one point.. only to find out they put an exhaust valve in an intake port and it didn't seal right. But anyway.. don't even spend that much for a rebuild... you'd feel broke and ripped off.. and people will be laughing at you. If you need resources.. email me.

Learn how to type???
See if I typed this right, F*@k YOU!!!!!! Hows that? ;)

But anyway,
So if I get the Howell bottom end kit I will be ok?
Should I get the .20 bore or just get the standard?
If I get it bored that is going to cost a lot to cause it cost more if they have to remove and replace the engine huh?

What would be the most difference of getting bored out and standard?

What would be the average of a total amount for the bottom end kit plus installation with the bore and then without the bore???

Thanks

Oh yeah Super 20 I was just kidding.

i believe its just a couple $100-2 max? to bore it?
correct me if im wrong
cool
Michael 99gs- hrc stage 2

You'll have to remove the engine anyway. That's not a deciding factor. Also, for the record, the overbore is .020 (twenty-thousandths of an inch) not .20 (twenty hundreds of an inch)

The overbore will cost you very little if you take it to a machine shop.

so it is better to go ahead and do the .020 rather than the standard if only cost a little more......I don't know what how big of a difference it makes, I know it will lower the compression for more boost, but it couldn't allow a whole heck of a lot more boost does it?

It's really not for lowering CR. It won't change that. It will very very slightly change your displacement. The purpose of the overbore is to resurface the insides of your cylinders to make sure the piston rings get a nice smooth surface to seal against.

Oh yeah the dude at the shop I was telling you about told me that it would take 40 hours that is why it was like 2600 bucks in labor....

HAHAHAHA
Yeah I am going somewhere else.

Can someone tell me what I asked above?
THANKS

Mark

good machine shops around here will charge you 40-60 bucks to bore out your cylinders. If you take it to a speed shop.. you'll be paying the middle man because they'll be sending your block to a machine shop anyway.

Take your car to another shop--no way should labor cost $3K. It should only take them 20-25 hours to complete. If you don't, yet, have the money to do both the head and bottom end, just do the bottom end first. And definitely, get the .020 overbore. It should only be about $100-$200. Plus, when you want to do the head later, it isn't necessary to yank the engine, so labor won't be as much. The car can still be very fast without a fully prepped head. Shop around for a reputable shop--a shop that will do everything the right way, and for a reasonable price.

good lord,and I thought I got raped.buy the parts yourself,and go to another shop.Or better yet,buy the parts.take it apart yourself.take the head,intk n' ehaust mani to a shop and have it machined.use the saved money for regounded cams,port/polish or other goodies.oooohhh...stroker kit(if it's out).