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My info on increased displacement engines is likely covered in much greater detail by the links above.
As far as other engine build issues, like Jeff said, I just went through these exact issues last year and have a good amount of info to share depending on what you are looking to do.
As far as revving to 9k and beyond, get new OEM or upgraded valve guides (Bronze), new valves (I went with 1mm over sized Ferrea Valves), stiffer valve springs and light retainers (Crower springs and Ti retainers are great). The get the 272/272 cams and you're all set to rev to 10,500 if you're daring. 3g lifters are a must too to avoid lifter tick. Continuous angle valve job (better than 3 or 5 since the material for grinding is relatively limited on our heads), deck the head and have it cleaned and that will get you alot of flow and power.
As far as the bottom end, I was worried about the rod ratios and everything else as well as some clearance issues with the 2.3/2.4 engine. I simply went with the 2.0 bored .020" over with Wiseco 8.3's, Manley rods, and ARP fasteners (Clevite bearings too). Pretty simple bottom end I guess. Overkill certainly but also alot more forgiving to less than optimal tuning conditions.
Now, on to the injectors. Here is the asshole comment: If you are still considering 550's, sell the car and let it go to someone else. 550's will do nothing but facilitate your blowing your engine. Get the number 550 out of your head. If you're building a car that will be a track monster (500 bhp or above) also get rid of the idea of daily driving it. Forged engines are very tempermental and although you could likely drive it all year in AZ, why put that kind of wear on it. Back to injectors, I went with 850's. Why? Because at no point did I ever want to have to deal with possibily outflowing my injectors, running lean, and rebuilding the engine from the bottom up. Get huge injectors, stay out of boost on the road and get 400 miles to the tank. In boost with "spirited driving", you'll get 150 to a tank, but that's ok too. Also, 91 octane is going to be a huge limiter for you. On the street you'll have to turn the boost way down, and the car just won't make gobs of power without race gas. C16 on the track will be fine though.
As far as why I made these decisions, ask away and I'll try and give my point of view. It's a great time to be doing engine build work, but just take your time and make decisions you are comfortable with. 
It's running again shitheads.
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