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I JUST went through the same dilemma, only I didn't get teh syncros changed (gonna wait for an LSD to do that, I think) but here's what I looked at:
CFDF ACT 2600 ACT 2100
Stocker flywheel XACT flywheel "stupid thin" flywheel (RRE)
I went with the 2100 and the XACT flywheel, but if I could do it again I'd go with the flywheel from RRE that can be resurfaced (buying a new plate for it). The 2100 holds great, chirps in 2nd and sometimes 3rd, and is easy to drive with. THe 2600 won't make crankwalk, but from the research I did it can aggravate the problem if its already there (i.e. its not noticable now, but it will be with a 2600 and a few thousand miles).
As for the flywheel, its great, but I wouldn't go lighter if you drive around town much. I go to school in Nashville and the drivers here are the worst, ever. This means that with the flywheel i'm constantly either riding the clutch or tailing some moron doing 15mph in the left lane....hills are a bitch with a full car, too. What i'm saying is "drivablility" is fine, but you will probably stall out at random times every now and then. Its up to you, but I"ve heard nothing but good things about the 2100, and mine is great. As for the CFDF....I dunno....any clutch that STRESSES you break it in for over 500 mi. (you should do this anyway, but most companies aren't as anal about it when they sell it to you) makes me wonder..
Plus i've <<heard>> that its not a true dual friction, but frankly I could care less. If a clutch holds, it holds, I dont' care really how one is doing it over the other. If it really would make you feel better to have a "dual friction" clutch, then by all means...
I dont' have the internet yet (tuesday hopefully) but shoot me a PM or an IM if you have any more questions.
Vandy ---------------------------------------
Black 98 GST missing her owner and looking for a new one...Inquiries welcome
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