Sup guys, im pretty sure thats whats wrong with my car if you read below on the post asking if my tranny is messed up. Well, I think thats what is wrong. I dont know if it would be a fork because i can put it into gear and it pops out but if i drive it hard like if i am slamin the gears, it goes into gear fine. But in no way im going to take apart that tranny and without resurfucing the flywheel or getting a lightened one and getting a new clutch so I wanted to figure out what works the best for the amount of money. Now remember that I have to pay for labor and I dont have alot of money so help me out guys. I am was thinking of going with the act 2600. And flywheel?? IDK is it worth it or not? thanks alot

my car pops out of first, pretty sure its the syncro of the clutch

ACT2600 would be good if your making really good power. i know it's a hell of alot of pedal pressure added to though. and another thing about the 2600 is that people have had alot of cars crankwalk when they get them installed. 2100 would be great if you have the usaul mods like intake exhaust BOV. i have the same problem you have about having to slam the gear in and i know i have a bad synchro and clutch. but i'm gonna go with the centerforce dual friction clutch. alot of people have had trouble with them and more people use ACT but i've done some research and want to try the CF.

act 2600 and fidenza light weight flywheel.



http://www.BerkshireCountyImports.com

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My personal opinion is go with the 2100 unless you plan on making huge power and taking the crankwalk risk. Also, ACT came out with a new flywheel that is about 12.7 pounds and is designed more for dragracing than other flywheels, and therefore, its slightly higher weight means it is much stronger than one of the 8 pound aluminum fidanza type flywheels.

It isn't resurfacable unfortunately, but if you don't wanna spend $ for a flywheel, the just get the stocker resurfaced. It's worked well for many people making rasonable power.

even though i have a 99 should i worry about crankwalk with the 2600... you guys think its the syncro also? is there such thing as a clutch syncro? its going into gears hard in all of them

never heard of a clutch synchro! anyway you shouldn't really WORRY about crankwalk but don't think it can't happen to you. my tranny is needing a 4th gear synchro but intead of just replacing that i'm gonna send it to john sheppard at http://www.shepracing.com to rebuild the whole thing. i've heard only good things about him and his rebuild is bulletproof! and like the other guy said only go with the 2600 if your making really good power. the 2100 seems a little weak to me for AWD if your gonna have basic mods so i'd suggest the Centerforce dual friction.

I'm pretty sure that CK meant to write "syncro OR clutch" and not "syncro OF clutch" I type of instead of or alot when I'm typing fast.

I JUST went through the same dilemma, only I didn't get teh syncros changed (gonna wait for an LSD to do that, I think) but here's what I looked at:

CFDF
ACT 2600
ACT 2100

Stocker flywheel
XACT flywheel
"stupid thin" flywheel (RRE)

I went with the 2100 and the XACT flywheel, but if I could do it again I'd go with the flywheel from RRE that can be resurfaced (buying a new plate for it). The 2100 holds great, chirps in 2nd and sometimes 3rd, and is easy to drive with. THe 2600 won't make crankwalk, but from the research I did it can aggravate the problem if its already there (i.e. its not noticable now, but it will be with a 2600 and a few thousand miles).

As for the flywheel, its great, but I wouldn't go lighter if you drive around town much. I go to school in Nashville and the drivers here are the worst, ever. This means that with the flywheel i'm constantly either riding the clutch or tailing some moron doing 15mph in the left lane....hills are a bitch with a full car, too. What i'm saying is "drivablility" is fine, but you will probably stall out at random times every now and then. Its up to you, but I"ve heard nothing but good things about the 2100, and mine is great. As for the CFDF....I dunno....any clutch that STRESSES you break it in for over 500 mi. (you should do this anyway, but most companies aren't as anal about it when they sell it to you) makes me wonder...:wary

Plus i've <<heard>> that its not a true dual friction, but frankly I could care less. If a clutch holds, it holds, I dont' care really how one is doing it over the other. If it really would make you feel better to have a "dual friction" clutch, then by all means...

I dont' have the internet yet (tuesday hopefully) but shoot me a PM or an IM if you have any more questions.

Vandy

Awesome yeah I would like to talk to you on AIM if I could whats your Screen name. I have aol on this laptop and I cant click on the AIM icon righ tnow because my computer is down. Thanks alot

no prob..sn is

toolshedmf

I won't be on until wednesday at the earliest tho...stupid comcast people, they're like the mob, only legit...x(

AIGHT

i'm back....still hatin' on comcast, but ask away. LIke I said, go with the flywheel that can be lightened (not the stocker, not XACT, but the other one on RRE), but only if you don't mind severe drivability issues with traffic (i.e. it will feel like you just learned stick if you're being nice to your car, or for a nice ride you'll be all over the clutch). I'm a whole lot better now that i'm used to it, but i'm not a shitty driver and i'm definitely saying if I were to drive a stock clutch/flywheel it'd be smooth, but its ridiculously difficult to start at a reasonable speed and be smooth with this clutch/flywheel combo, and its pretty mild.

vandy:thumbsup

Wait did you get the lightened stock flywheel or the Fidanza?

no I went with the XACT flywheel, but there's one that you can buy replacement surfaces for....