ok this is my second weekend trying to get my new suspension in..I have eibach prokit and KYB AGX...well im using the write-up from the home page and I cant get the first nut off...its driving me crazy...last week I ended up putting in my brembo and master metal pads and had no problem.. Its the nut that holds the swaybar link to the damper fork you need a 14mm cresent and 14mm socket...I already tried to jack up the suspension to get pressure off the sway bar...I have already stripped the nut for the crescent wrench! I can get the bolt to spin around but cant get the nut free..I cant seem to get enough force with the crescent wrench to hold when I start turning with the socket wrench..and yes I have a good breaker bar..and yes I used lots of wd40..would liquid wrench work better? I want to know if Im taking this nut off correctly? TIA
AFX/UDP,AEM,AF/X 55mm TB,50 shot of NOS,Glenn's short shifter,17" tantrum,prokit KYB AGX,JL stealthbox sony headunit,audiobahn amp,M3 style mirrors,Blue leds,yellow fogs,reverse ind,w
#9484, "RE: strut/spring install problems ??HELP" In response to Reply # 0
Just loosen the bolt that closes the "cup" and you will be able to pop the cartriage out of the car once you loosen the 3 nuts at the strut tower. I did my shocks without removing the cup. Just left it there. Hope ya have a spring compressor! Good luck, -=B-=
Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.
Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate. Me: Can I put that in my sig? Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.
#9485, "RE: strut/spring install problems ??HELP" In response to Reply # 0
You are talking about the front sway bar end link right, and not the rear? If it is the front, you do need a 14mm wrench, but to hold the link stud from turning, you need to use an allen wrench to hold it in place while you turn the nut. In the center of the link stud, you will see where the allen wrench goes, this will hold it still. Be sure to have the entire front of the car raised up, so you don't put pressure on the sway bar. Only having one side up at a time puts too much stress on the end link, and you will have a difficult time poping out the link from the knuckle..If you are doing the rear, sorry, i have no help there, as i have no rear bar on my car..
13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!) S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential fuel injection) My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net -1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy" -1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD) -2000 Honda CR-V(daily)
#9486, "RE: strut/spring install problems ??HELP" In response to Reply # 2
The rear is a piece of cake, and the sway bar does not interfere with removal or install of shocks/springs. I replaced my shocks without unbolting the sway bar end links, though. That is what I would do, personally, as the '95-'96 do not have the allen key lock on them, oyu hafta get a really small 14MM crescent wrench in there. Not worth the aggrivation, in my opinion... -=B-=
Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.
Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate. Me: Can I put that in my sig? Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.
#9488, "RE: strut/spring install problems ??HELP" In response to Reply # 4
I know what your going thru since i live in Maine. I had to cut the end links off with a high speed cutter. Nothing else was going to get them off. I even soaked them in PB blaster for like two days, nothing. The allen wrench hole rounded out first try. Damn salty roads. Good Luck!
#9489, "RE: strut/spring install problems ??HELP" In response to Reply # 5
thanks for the support hey do you wanna drive on down to MA should only take ya 5 hours from Maine hehe..well I should be giving it another go this weekend
AFX/UDP,AEM,AF/X 55mm TB,50 shot of NOS,Glenn's short shifter,17" tantrum,prokit KYB AGX,JL stealthbox sony headunit,audiobahn amp,M3 style mirrors,Blue leds,yellow fogs,reverse ind,w
#9490, "RE: strut/spring install problems ??HELP" In response to Reply # 6
If it was only a little closer! There is one other thing you can try that worked on my passenger side, but you'll still need new endlinks. Tear the grease boots off, clean them up, through some huge vise grips on them, and then take the nut off. If you end up doing either of the two. Make sure you call Mitsubishi and get the new endlinks first. It will take 3-4 days if there not on hand. Tell them you also need the nuts. For some strange reason they don't come with nuts. I paid around $50.00 for the fronts. Let us know how it goes!
#9491, "RE: strut/spring install problems ??HELP" In response to Reply # 7
hmmm..well if its going to cost me $50 for new end links...maybe I should pay a shop to do the install for $150...but I dont want them touching my car never mind bad idea must be late...
AFX/UDP,AEM,AF/X 55mm TB,50 shot of NOS,Glenn's short shifter,17" tantrum,prokit KYB AGX,JL stealthbox sony headunit,audiobahn amp,M3 style mirrors,Blue leds,yellow fogs,reverse ind,w