Im replacing the rear wheel bearing on my 97 eclipse. I removed the whole hub from the car with the rotor attached to it. I tried prying the rotor off the hub but no success. Do anyone have any ideas on replacing the bearing?

Well Depending on where you live in the Country. I know Midwest DSM's have a hell of a time getting rear wheel bearings out.

Usually you want to just beat it out with A BFH "big fucking hammer" while the hub is still mounted to the car.

Some succeed like stated above, others have to take it to a shop and get it pressed out.

If you're tierd of fucking with it, take it to a shop, it'll be out in 10 min, and cost you less then 20$.

Jeff.

Originally posted by 740TurboBrick

"Dsms run on Gasoline, DSMers run on Alcohol...Id bring a tank to refuel the DSMers..."

Beating it with a hammer while attached to the car worked for me..

1999 Eclipse GS
Built motor
Hahn 16G Turbo w/ FMIC
Hahn Stage 5 Portfueler (270's & 500's)
Zeitronix Zt-2 wideband w/ 3.5bar MAP
3" SS Turbo Back
CM Stage 4 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel
Baer Big Brake Kit

I assume and hope you removed the brake caliper before trying said beating? If so, it should come right off. There isnt that much surface area to hold a rotor on to the hub.

95 Eclipse GS: 10.5:1, Crower 2's and MSII
186 WHP - 150 WTQ
14.697 @ 93.85 MPH......Gone, but not forgotten
99 420A Avenger: Given to my sister
99 GS OZ: Sold
03 Evo 8: Family Car with balls

Heh heh, you guys make me giggle.

Did you ever look closely at that rotor? Do you see a couple of holes on opposite sides of each other? Do you see where there are threads in those holes? Thinking maybe you could thread a bolt into said holes? See where I'm going with this?

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

95 Eclipse GS: 10.5:1, Crower 2's and MSII
186 WHP - 150 WTQ
14.697 @ 93.85 MPH......Gone, but not forgotten
99 420A Avenger: Given to my sister
99 GS OZ: Sold
03 Evo 8: Family Car with balls

Thats what those bolt holes are for, lol. Screw two screws in and it pushes the rotor away from the hub, easiest way. I usually just tap mine with a hammer though because I don't really have a rust issue.

Last time I did a rotor change there was a lot of rust and said holes were rusty as well. Since I was changing out the rotors anyway I figured it would be more effective (and fun) to beat it with a hammer.

Twas quite effective!

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

I actually had a rotor break the other day using the screw technique. the hat actually split and separated. If I can find it I'll take a pic this weekend.

It was only the original factory rotor with 170k miles on it. LOL!

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Im sure this has been solved, but for future reference 2x 8mm x 1.25 hex head bolts about 1.5in long will solve your problem. Just alternate while tightening them down.

Ah Vtec... All of the lag with none of the turbo