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I would say to ditch the crossdrilled. Any hole in the rotor creates a stress concentration (if you want, I'll even run the numbers to figure out what it is). In general, you AVOID any stress concentration in cast pieces. Some people MAY use them and never have any issues with them, but the risk is pretty high, espicially with any harder driving. The only way to lower this is to cast the rotor with the holes already in the casting, even then, any sharp edges create a concentration. The part will finally fail in fatigue due to propagation of the crack that will form at that concentration, when it fails, the crack will expand at a rate of 1 mile/sec.
Honestly, I don't think the advantage on a street car (if ANY) is worth the risk of cross drilled rotors. I have Power Slot rotors with Hawk HPS pads, and that feels great to me. I also the same setup on all 4 wheels on an 02 Mini Cooper and that thing stops quicker than anything else I have driven.
I have personally never used AGX struts, but I have Tokico Illumina's with Tein S-Techs, and know that works.
Which bushings where you planning on? The Energy Suspension kit is all one piece, and even more of a pain to install, but if you buy the BLACK color bushings, they are also graphite infused, you will virtually NEVER have to Re-Grease them. 1997 Eagle Talon ESi:|Shaved 2Gb bumper|CP CAI w/ K&N Filter and cold air box|Megan Racing Headers|Solid shifter bushings |PowerSlot rotors/Hawk HPS
pads|Rear Disk Conversion | Prothane Engine Mounts|Tokico Illumina struts|Tein S-Tech springs|Front/Rear Upper and Lower Braces |Energy Suspension Bushings|
55mm Half Shaft TB|Greddy eManage Ultimate|AEM UEGO Wideband|Autometer gauges
1987 Trans Am GTA: Project
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