That's right... I boosted it up to 26 PSI today (with a Super 20G) and everything went very well. The 300 kPa MAP sensor works perfect, the ignition was super strong (took it to 8500 RPMs), and the AFR was very stable and consistant using 72 lb. Siemens Deka injectors (tuned it for low 11's at high boost). I could tell the engine was making lots of torque because the tires kept breaking loose in 3rd AND 4th gear. Actually, it threw the alternator belt off!

Oh my - I'm extremely satisfied with the MegaSquirt and MSnS-Extra 024s9 firmware!

My next step is to get the Megasquirt controlling the Greddy Profec B's boost solenoid.

Nice. Does it still make power up at 8500? I haven't past 7500 yet with the stock cams. What kind of cams do you have?

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Sweet. How about posting an MSQ there, Doug

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Originally posted by dougie2
That's right... I boosted it up to 26 PSI today (with a Super 20G) and everything went very well. The 300 kPa MAP sensor works perfect, the ignition was super strong (took it to 8500 RPMs), and the AFR was very stable and consistant using 72 lb. Siemens Deka injectors (tuned it for low 11's at high boost). I could tell the engine was making lots of torque because the tires kept breaking loose in 3rd AND 4th gear. Actually, it threw the alternator belt off! Oh my - I'm extremely satisfied with the MegaSquirt and MSnS-Extra 024s9 firmware! My next step is to get the Megasquirt controlling the Greddy Profec B's boost solenoid.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Fuck if this isn't an exciting thread!

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

Doug, I suppose all I really need to know is your contants settings, and your idle fuel pressure..Maybe what idle PW and A/F ratio too. I am going to be ordering the same Accel injects you have, from Summit tomorrow..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

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.
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Oh no! My sig died! I'll get another one.
Member and Co-Founder of FLDSM

Ummmmm yea, you need to take me for a ride some time. And let me know when you sell that other stuff because I might could work something out with you. Oh, and if you ever need a garage or a lift with air tools, just let me know and you can work on your car out here at Rivergate Toyota.

-Roman

What are you going to do about your alternator belt? Mine is recently doing the same thing. You don't want to boost off your belt every time you rev it out like that.

How much power are you putting down?

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

____________________________________________________
four nails four corners four riders and four horses

The engine is really strong right now. It actually feels stronger than when I put down 402 HP (or was it 406? I can't remember) with the Accel DFI and nitrous last year. Who knows, it may actually be making that much power considering my AFR is right at 11.6:1 at WOT and I'm giving it pretty agressive ignition timing with 118 octane fuel. Or it may just be in my head. I had some dyno time scheduled for this weekend, but I signed on a house and will be moving so the dyno testing will have to wait.

do you have a chance to post the msq?

Well, it looks like the dyno is going to have to wait even longer because my head gasket sprung a leak. On high boost runs, cylinder pressure is leaking into the water jackets and causing coolant to blow out the overflow tank. The engine still runs strong but I know there's a small leak, so the head's coming off soon.

I'll try to post that MSQ tonight. I just finished moving and have to unpack everything.

You aren't lifting the head, are you? 26 PSI is a lot to add to static compression...

is it overflowing just because your temps are so high? do you ahve enough airflow through the front bumper and through the radiator?

im only asking cause im having the same problems on my 1g. just a thought anyway if the headgasket isnt kablooeed.

______________________________
Matt D.
'06 Evo IX SE
'98 RS-T 13.8 @ 106.1

That's exactly what mine did when i lost my headgasket. it was very random and intermittant, but sure as shit it was the headgasket...

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

I remember talking with Bill Hahn at the SO last year, and he had these same issues with high boost/high power. From what I gathered, anything over 400HP you will want to drill out the head and block for 1/2" head studs, and torque to 100ftlbs. I *think* he uses an O ringed setup and copper gasket. I dont think its really a issue of a "blown" HG, because its rather difficult to blow out a MLS gasket. They just leak under super high cylinder pressures, which technically, is not a blown HG. It's just basically reaching the sealing limit of the HG and the clamping torque applied to it. The standard head studs should not be torqued over 85 ft lbs or so, because they were not designed to handle those torque loads, which is why the upgrade to 1/2" studs. That info came from Bill and ARP, so i like to think they know what they are talking about

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I am inclined to agree. One of the limiting factors with the 7 bolt 4G63s, as opposed to the 6 bolt 4G63s is the bolt/stud hole in the block. The 7 bolt has an M11, where the 6 bolt has an M12. Incidently, the 7 bolt is more prone to lifting the head. Maybe it would behoove you to drill out, and use some M13 studs or something similar?

I really don't think 1/2" head studs are neccessary over the standard size ARP head studs. An improvement, yes, but not necessary. Also, the radiator isn't the problem because I'm using an aluminum Fluidyne radiator with dual FAL 2100 CFM fans. Flow through & around the intercooler is fine.

Currently, I'm using ARP head studs torqued to 100 ft.lbs. and a 4-layer MLS teflon-lined headgasket. It's had a couple of years worth of high boost with nitrous runs on it. Recently, during some MegaSquirt testing, I overheated the motor to 270+ degrees at idle and blew the radiator cap off the t-stat housing (don't ask how I let this happen). The motor has been running super strong since then, but I can't help thinking that it was the start of my current issue. I'm seriously thinking headgasket here.

If I do have to pull the head off, then 1/2" studs will go in along with o-rings and an all out race-prepped head in preparation for new GT35/40R turbo setup.

what is an "O-ring setup?

Edit: Also, maybe we need a link/info on getting these new studs from ARP. Drill + tap sizes.

I think this should be mandatory for people even thinking of boosting there 420a's.

I hate hearing from the 4g63 people that the 420a's don't hold up to high power because of head gasket leaks.

While the blocks are apart, and already getting fitted for ARP studs... Lets explain how to do it right so the fucking head gasket doesn't have to be changed every time we hit 21+psi.

ARP part numbers, drill sizes, tap sizes, o-ringed head gasket info (www.headgasket.com)?

Lets start getting rid of this stereotype for the 420a.

Dougie, your my hero.


I figure since I cant stop fixing the damn thing, I'll just create more problems to work on. The stock pile has begun. Parts PArts PARts PARTs PARTS!!!
I'm a novice listen to what I say and make your own conclusion. If I'm wrong tell me and I will learn. Thanks be to the 2gnt Gods may they grant me turbo and fruits of the Earth. Amen.

It's definetely the headgasket. It's been pushing some out the overflow and now it's burning some when I romp on it. The coolant tests positive for hydrocarbons. However, it still runs good and doesn't overheat when I stay out of boost... which I'm happy about.

On a side note, I took the revs up to 9100 RPM today and the valves were floating pretty good. The power starts leveling off around 8250 RPM too.

I guess all of this is supposed to be a sign. It's a sign that the time has come to go all out and start on my next goal for this project. The plan is to slowly get the car in race trim and try to get the engine making 600 HP without nitrous.

Has anyone thought that we need to use bigger diameter washers on the head studs to take up some of the load from the excess torque. I once over torqued the studs because of a bad torque wrench and noticed that it made groves and major indents into the aluminum head where the washer rests.

HRC's RS runs 1/2" head studs, although that requires drilling out the block, head and messing with taps. But, it's the best way to truly upgrade the head-block structure.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Just a question: How do you check if the coolant has hydrocarbons?

When is the money spending going to stop on this fucking car?!

You use a hyrdocarbon tester. It's a tool that uses a cartain dye and you put it over where the radiator cap goes and draw in the air or steam from your coolant... if the dye changes colors that means there are hydrocarbons in the coolant and you have a bad head gasket.

Okay cool. Thanks for the tip. I'll try to find where I can find these kits.

When is the money spending going to stop on this fucking car?!

Dealerships and some general repair shops have them and can check for hydrocarbons for you.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

Great, I will surely look into this! Hey thanks alot guys!

When is the money spending going to stop on this fucking car?!

yes i know i brought this back from the dead and all, but i was woundering what came about of this, did you use the 1/2' studs? o rings? what did you do to fix the issue?

Well, the car's been down ever since. It sat from Sept/05 to Feb/06. I'm now working hard on a daily basis to finish up the new setup by April 1st... and I'm on track for the most part.

Here's what I'm working on right now:

Tore down engine
Re-honed cylinders
ARP main studs
ARP cam tower studs
ARP 1/2" head studs
Cometic HP headgasket
NRGY Heads pro-race head
Crane 0018 camshafts
Crane valve springs
Crane Titanium retainers
SI stainless 1mm oversized valves
Fidanza cam gears
Ported/Enlarged intake manifold
Custom tubular turbo header
FP3565 turbocharger
TiAl 44mm v-band wastegate
3" open dump downpipe (stainless steel)
Open dump wastegate discharge (stainless steel)
Custom radiator
Extreme Intercoolers FMIC (huge, 3.5" thick)
2.5" powercoated intercooler piping
TiAl blow-off valve
2002 base Neon trans w/ 3.55
Quaife limited slip differential
Driveshaft Shop stage 4 halfshaft axles

That most of it... I think it'll fix the headgasket leak.

id say but you can probly not use the cam tower studs tho, it probly wouldnt make much difference

The cam tower studs aren't for increasing the engine's power output, or anything like that, but for durability and ease of installation/removal. I'll likely be digging through the engine a lot in the near future, and by installing the cam tower studs, I won't have to ever replace the oem bolts again.

Evo 8 - 12.3@113 circa 2009 (~330whp)
Now with BB Xona Rotor HTZ FP Red and ~450whp
2018 MSM Civic SI Ktuner TSP stage 1 w/ Honda hacked headunit.

yea and the part # for the 1/2" headstuds

I got all the ARP hardware directly from ARP by calling them on the phone.

There is no part # or kit for 1/2" head studs. You have to measure the studs yourself and order them ala cart from ARP. The engine block will need drilled out and re-tapped, and the dowel pins for the head will need to be drilled out in a lathe. I used new dowel pins from Dodge.

hey doug, NICE work. i was wondering if you are running stock crank and cam sensors if so do you have the numbers for them. i got the haltech ecu in my car but no one wants to touch it for tunning so im on my own and those numbers are a killer to find. anyway keep up the good work.

-Roman