I've pretty much always had this issue, just never looked into much yet..On a hot re-start, the motor runs lean for maybe one minute, then runs fine. The wideband shows super lean during this time as well, and motor will stuble and run like crap. Over at the MS website, people are all talking about heat soak of the IAT, but the intake temps are damn near identical at the restart. Like i can shut the car off, then 10 seconds later restart it, and it will run lean until a minute, when the ego correction starts adding fuel. Anyone else have this issue? Its done this with every code version i've tried to date.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Hot afterstart enrichment?

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

I have the same problem. I had the ASE explained to me pretty good the other day on the msfi forums. If you look at a datalog while starting the ASE only kicks in for a few seconds. After that is goes into warmup. I dont think the ASE has to do with this problem. What wideband are you using? Sometimes I think my innovate comunicates to slow with my msns. Just a thought.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Why is your EGO correction adding fuel at idle? Maybe you simply have VE values that are too low.

Matt- maybe you could send me a copy of your MSQ file and I can compare it to a lot of MSQs that I have, that I KNOW work great. Maybe I can find something there.

I have my ego helping at idle alittle too. It was the easiest way to smooth out the idle. For me on the ve table there was a big difference between 53 and 54. Im not talking about the ve table under constants but the ve table under tuning. When I changed the constance ve table to get the number to change on the tunning ve the afr at idle went from like 13.6:1 to 15:1. So I used the ego to help alittle. Thats what it is for right?

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

My ase table only goes to 130. How can I change this?

Update to the newest alpha code. I have 029k running on the bench (car is down) with MT 756.

The other cool thing about the newer alpha releases is that they support real-time barometric correction - you need a second MAP sensor identical to the one hooked up to the manifold, though. It works on the bench but I haven't tried it on the car yet. I might end up putting a "large" (0.1-1.0 uF) capacitor across the second MAP sensor output to average the output more. It seems to fluctuate around 99-100 or 100-101 kPa very quickly at times, where as actual barometric pressure would take on the order of a minute or more to change that much depending on weather conditions, vertical speed etc... It would be nice if there was a code change to accept a different type of MAP sensor, like a 1 BAR or something which would have better accuracy and precision.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

As far as the barometer reading Matt, everytime you turn the key on, the MS take a barometer reading. You cant stop that. To my knowledge the barometeric correction makes the MS periodically take a barometer reading. This would help someoen who lives in ahilly region.

For me the hot start lean issue only lasts for a short duration, it isnt constant. I do notice after the car has been driven for a while, it continues to lean out. From a cold start my idle AFR in 13's. Once its good and hot and driven for a while it drops to the 14.8.

I havent had much chance to really go after that issue yet but i feel confident the issue is in the VE table.

Terry

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

It only takes baro readings during resets, and power on, not when its running..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

-Roman

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

I may have stumbled onto something that will help this problem. I have a little time this weekend to mess with my ms somemore and I found something intresting. I was told that the asd relay was a god way to power my ms. It works but I have always had a choppy idle. For shits and grins I powered it off the the battery today and the car idles much better. Also I dont have the hot start issue. I have started and stopped my car 5 times with out having the lean idle. A much more intresting thing is that my afr changes between the two power sources. It runs much leaner off the asd relay. I would guess that the power source is not enought to control the ms and injectors.

Anybody else try this? I have be playing all day and man the car idles better then ever. I hooked up my ms to a toggle switch with power direct from the battery. No more choppy idle and none of that lean hot start either. This is the first time I have been able to get the map down to a consistant 36kpa at idle too. I love this stuff.

Yes, this is a known issue. Using the ASD relay will cause the problems you were having as well as ignition misfires and other quirks. Never use the ASD relay for MS power. Use a simple 12V 30-amp SPST automotive relay to power your MegaSquirt.

I'm using my ignition wire from the ignition switch to power a relay that turns the MS on and off...the power to the relay and to the MS comes from the batter, a redtop Optima. I also use a noise filter cap on the power supply line. I played around with it more today, and its still doing it. From an overnight cold soak, it warms up to op temp, and it runs great, ego correction is +/- 5%. Shut the car off for a few minutes, and it runs really lean until o2 correction kicks in, then the ego correction gauge is reading +8 to +15%! i dont get it..I even swaped in a new processor, same thing. Other than that, its running great

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

Well i think i've figured this out for the most part. Other MS users have had lean start issues, and i've figured out that the air density correction algorithm was not adding enough fuel for rising intake air temps. It was pretty clear just by watching my intake temps rise, and then watching the o2 correction add in more fuel as air got hotter, esp when going above 95 degrees, and really bad when in the low 100's.

The new alpha test code i'm using is 029o, which has air density correction table in it. YOu can choose either coolant correction, or intake air temp correction. It seemed to work quite well so far, and i'm only really using the correction at idle and slightly above, which is when intake air temps can get hotter with the slow air flow, and a large intercooler. When intake temps were around 150 on a hot restart, i needed approx 30% more fuel to keep the o2 correction close to 100%.

So there it is, if anyone has this issue, just try out the new alpha code and see what happens. The car idled the best so far with this code version as well. Very smooth.

One more issue that i figured out was the hunting idle, and roughness, was my PCV valve was sometimes letting air by, and sometimes not, which was messing with the idle speed, and fluctuating the MAP signal, which was messing with the smoothness of the idle. So i just took that out, capped off the intake port, and ran a line from the fitting on the valve cover to my catch can. It's working great so far.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)