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I'm not sure where you read all that (links would be helpful, especially for things that supposedly factory spec), but I'll tell you right now that 210 at the crank in a stock displacement, daily driven, all motor 420A is going to be a real bitch to achieve. Are you planning on putting the engine on an engine dyno? You might stick to wheel horsepower like the rest of us. In the end, that's all that really matters in this game. Current record is 160whp, FYI.
Originally posted by fullmoon
I was wondering was if I went with 11.5's this would make the head a bit on the hot side how do I keep the head cool enough to be a daily driver?
I think they would, but it's not so much that they make the head hot as it is that the compress the air charge sufficiently to heat it up and that results in predetonation. You either run higher octane (which has a higher flash point) or detune the engine by reducing CR, pulling ignition timing, or injecting water/alky into the mixture. Pretty sure you don't want to be running water injection on a shitton of retarded timing for your daily driver. It would be like detuning the built engine to perform like stock.
Originally posted by fullmoon
My theory is I should not overbore as this would make it run really really hot but just stick with stock bore to keep temps down.
There is no point in boring the cylinders over in pursuit of increased displacement in this engine. It's all about freshening up the cylinder walls to ensure they are perfectly concentric. Get the +.020" ("twenty over") build done and know you did it right. That is your only concern at this point.
Originally posted by fullmoon
If I need to tune the fule system could I keep it simple as installing slightly bigger fule injectors and or a hi flo fulepump?
First of all, PLEASE spell FUEL the correct way. F-U-E-L. Thank you. Second, per your question, you should have little to no need of larger injectors until such time as you are maxing things out. My suggestion, and this is coming from someone fully built on a completely stock fuel system, would be to build your engine and then take it to the dyno for tuning. At that point, they can show you a map of your AFRs and advise you of where you might need more fuel, if at all. You've got enough to spend your money on with this project. You don't need to be spending money on larger injectors you may or may not need.
Originally posted by fullmoon
I'm trying to stay away from the ecm since it cannot be reflashed by any companys yet.
To achieve your goals (or come close to them, anyway), you are going to need some form of engine management. I went from the AFX/R ECU to the stocker and, let me tell you, the stock ECU is dumb as all get out. It's really good at saving the engine's ass, but it plays it too safe for my liking. I can feel it pull timing in the top end. Where the AFX/R used to pull all the way to the rev limiter at 8000rpm, the stocker feels like it runs out of gas above 6000rpm. MSnS will allow you to move the rev limiter beyond the stock redline and make more use of your cams.
EDIT:
I forgot to mention that my engine doesn't come into its own until just under 4000rpm. If the stock ECU has dumbed all the power out of it by 6000rpm, you can imagine it's little more than a noise-maker between 5000-6000rpm, thus leaving me with only 1000rpm to play.
The bulk of the power is going to come from the head, but the aim of high horsepower will come at the cost of less low-rpm power. You
Originally posted by fullmoon
I have heard of decking and milling (Not too sure what it is I think I have an idea a little more on this would help thx ) I don't think I should have this done with stock bore 11.5s what are your thoughts?
This is removing material from the mating surface of the head to effectively increase the compression ratio of the cylinders. I *might* do this on my 10.5:1 engine, but I wouldn't even think about it on a 11.5. Conversely, you can also lower CR by installing a thicker HG.
Originally posted by fullmoon
Also can this be done w/o milling decking and w/o valves being too dangerously close to the pistons I think I may have enough room I dunno?
Again, there are limits to how much material can be removed from the head without damaging it, but you shouldn't bother yourself with this idea. If you are installing higher CR pistons, then you are doing the job right and only need to have the head cleaned up for an MLS HG.
Originally posted by fullmoon
My goal is 210 to the crank no NO2 no boost while at the same time keeping my tailpipe clean as possible for the smog happy people of California.
Cliffs' Notes?
DONT go 11.5/1CR - More trouble than it's worth, especially on a daily driver. I knock with the AC on in 100* temps on 91 octane at 10.5:1CR.
DO get the +.020" bore to make sure your cylinders are true.
DONT get the over bore to look for more displacement.
DO consider some form of EMS. Your goals will require it.
DO consider a move out of Kalifornia. They take all the joy out of car ownership - the law is against modification, the roads suck, the traffic sucks, and the drivers suck. 
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