Okay so I swapped in a new ECU and the car still does not fire...

Here are some side notes, so if anybody thinks of any idea's or anything to try, PLEASE let me know, I need this bitch to run, lol.

When cranking, my Snap On scanner IS telling me the following:
I have a cam/crank signal.
I have TPS value and voltage.
ASD and Fuel relays are both okay.
Fuel pressure is fine.

I did a spark test with the scanner and I got spark to both sides of the coil pack.

BUT when cranking w/ out doing the test w/ the scanner, there is no spark.

Timing is dead on, compression is 180 across the board.

What else can cause the ECU to not see spark? The engine fuse is okay too.

THIS IS DRIVING ME FUCKING CRAZY GUYS, I have searched like crazy and found nothing really, and if I did find something, I tried it and nothing worked.

Can someone point me a in a good direction or something PLEASE!!!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Do you have 12v at the coil while cranking?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

So why did you replace the PCM then? Check your battery voltage while cranking if it drops below 9.6 V then the PCM shuts down. If you still have problems i live in hartville ohio (between akron and canton) i can come take a look at it. Let me know.

.........................................................................................................................

Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
.........................................................................................................................
2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Battery voltage is not less than 9v either while cranking.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

So, your getting spark and fuel fine, and your ecu is new and sensors work. My only other suggestion is ground, only because you have the 2 major things to start your car fuel and spark, also you say your battery is fine. I may be wrong, but it has to be something small since everything you checked out is fine. My car wouldnt start on me 3 times, 1st was ecu, 2nd was little ground cable on the front of the block above the starter, and 3rd was asd relay. The only way i found out it was the asd relay was checking both relays to the fuel connection and making sure the fuel pump primes when the key is turned on. Hope you figure out.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

well thats probably your problem then

No really, I don't know what else to say.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

The Ignition and Fuel relay's are diffrent. I dont know, its weird.

I guess I could just buy a new ASD for it and see what happens...

EDIT: I called Autozone, NAPA and Advance Auto and no one sells them, where did you guys pick yours up from?

Dont tell me Satin is the only place!?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Okay so after reading just about EVERY post on 'no spark' on here, I noticed in a post that someone mentioned something about the Vehicle Speed Sensor being in series with the crank sensor.

SO, I am going to try to clean out all the dirt/grime that might be down there tonight at class, unplug it and see what happens.

EDIT: Since my scanner IS seeing a signal from the ASD while cranking, that rules out the ASD from being a culprut (sp?) here, so no need now to buy a new relay.

I figured I MUST have had a short some where in the cam/crank wiring, and we checked it out and didnt see anything, but obivously I do not since the scanner is seeing a signal from both the cam/crank sensors while cranking.

This is craziness. I can send a signal from my scanner to the coil and get spark when not cranking, but when I unplug the scanner, and try to crank, there is no spark at the coil.

I know this MUST be something simple, but it is DRIVING ME FUCKING CRAZY!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Advance auto parts does sell the ASD relay, the number mr76, but since you dont need it then you can keep the number just in case. My two relays are the same for the ASD and fuel relay, i dont see why yours isn't, that is weird. I have driven around without my vss for awhile now and it still drives fine. That shouldnt be the reason it doesnt crank, i take it all your grounds are ok.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

Shot in the dark, but what about the ignition switch? If it wasn't allowing a connection as it should (or shorting out), could that cause the problem of no fire?

~Luke
Facebook
1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

-----------------------------------------
2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Sounds right, it could be bad. Now pull both relays out and see if they can plug into another, if not then i dont know what kind you have.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

Unplug them and see if your scan tool says the same thing. If not, then maybe the ASD's fine, but find one to test swap with.

~Luke
Facebook
1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

Is your scanner showing an RPM signal during cranking? It should be..the crank sensor is the main sensor for rpm and spark, so i'd start there to be sure you have power and ground at the crank sensor, and the actual signal coming from the sensor. Both the ASD and fuel pump relays are the same, its your any old typical SPDT 12volt automotive 5 pin relay. You can use a multimeter on the crank sensor to show the pulsed output on the crank sensor output wire during crank as well. I've personally seen issues with relays where the contacts inside were going bad, but it still showed voltage, but had no current potential..YOu can grab a relay at most any stereo/alarm/remote starter install shop..I've used those on my car, as they plug right into the car's socket.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

relays are the direction here as matt said. The Scanner only reads what the PCM tells it to. IF the PCM sends a ground to thge ASD coil. as long as the coil shows the correct resistance the PCM thinks the ASD is clicking over. As matt pointed out, if the contacts of the relay are flashed over, they will be able to pass voltage but not support any amperage.

Remember, that scanner is a tool, not an answer. And btw go get the latest updates. The new carts are programmable by the dealer. No more swapping out chip sets.

Terry

maybe check the ignition switch . i heard it can short where it looks like everything works but doesnt crank unless you play with it.try keep turning the key on nd off real fast .who knows maybe youll get lucky . its worth a try

LED tails : Done for now!
99 eclipse rst
cobalt blue met. paint,star stage 2 upgraded t3/t460trim turbo ceramic coated , polished compressor housing, ,optima yellow top, chrome i/c piping ,front mount ntercooler ,apexi turbo timer . zeitronix wb02 ,faze oil ,boost gauge,egt ,bosch 4x plugs,kyb agx struts, pro kit springs.17''adr venomous rims,Falken azenis ,brembo dilled/slotted rotors ,turbo xs bov ,oil catch can,manual shiftknob,autometer pyrometer egt , vortech sfmu,b&m fuel pressure gauge ,accel 310cc injectors ,gasketmatched and polished intake manifold ,58mm throttle body ,no egr,polished turbonetics wastegate,fuel pump rewire,homade fcd and a lot more .LED reverse lights ,sidemarkers and tails .atx to mtx swap . South bend tz clutch . Tons more
http://imageshack.us>


http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=boosted60trimrst
My contribution to the wiki
http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=crank%20arm%20spindle%20mod%20to%20fit%20power%20panels

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Well, thought i could help, but now my car wont start. It started after cranking it for awhile and then idled all messed and immediately shut off not even 10 secs of being on. It wont start anymore so if you find something let me know. I am in the same boat, i got spark, fuel, fuses good, relays tested and good, i am gonna check my timing one day when i get tired of being pissed.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Okay here is what is up after tonights tests at school w/ the monster:

2 new relays, ASD and fuel...still no start.

still no spark to coil pack. but the coil is seeing 12v while cranking...

here is the interesting things now:

1. i unplugged the cam sensor, and had a classmate start the car, it started and ran (keep in mind crank sensor is still plugged in) what i would call 'limp' mode. sounded like it was running on 2 cyl's really. then i tried plugging the cam sensor back in while it was running, and it shut off immediately. tried again, same thing.

2. then i reversed it. i unplugged the crank sensor and plugged in cam sensor, and tried starting the car and it just cranked and wouldnt start. and thats beacuse i believe the crank is the first signal.

now, can someone point me in a direction to go here? i mean, this nuuuts. i need to know what color the wires are for the computer power and ground, does anyone know what they are?

i have good fuel pressure so fuel is crossed out to being a problem.

i replaced the cam sensor, both relays, new pcm, new msd coil, new msd wires, new plugs, what else is there to control it? i am lost here, someone shoot me some advice please so i can get it going monday hopefully at class!

p.s. i know the crank sensor is fine and obviously doesnt need replaced since it started from the signal from the crank sensor itself!

TIA TIA TIA!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Are you sure that you have the correct harnesses plugged into the cam sensor, coil pack, and VSS sensor? If I remember correctly, those three harnesses (or at least two of them) are the exact same. I've actually fried a couple of ECUs in the past by accidentally reversing two of them. Also, the wire colors for some of those harnesses changed between different year models.

Doug is very right, all three plugs are the same.

Mike read the the troubleshooter of your Scanner. test the Cam and crank with it.

Plug in the cam sensor only and see if the scanner is seeing cam signal (yes/No) do this with the crank unplugged.

The reverse the order plug in the crank and unplug the cam. You could just skip this step since it does start.

If one sensor is bad, it will make the other appear bad ect ect. This is all in the troubleshooter kart.

Next, since you replaced the cam sensor, if the scanner is not seeing signat then you have a problem from the sensor to the ecu possibly. Could be connector related. If you have a short it could have damaged the new ECU as well.

Are you getting any codes with the scanner? You do have the asian karts right to read the Mitsu ecu? Your not reading the Generic obd2 kart are you? The generic scan will miss a great deal of info on our cars.

Terry

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Mike,

Did you check the wiring for your cam/crank sensors? It might have shorted somewhere since you say it was showing the signal as on and then went to off and back.

And if it was a power wire for the ecu don't you think your snapon scanner wouldn't be able to connect?? Of course this is all just speculation as I don't own or have never used one. I need to buy one though.

-Nate
________________
-97 Avenger I4 5spd (R.I.P.)
-95 Eclipse GS 5spd
-Mods: Megan Header ,Megan Racing Cat-Back, AEM V2, Fluidyne Radiator
All-Motor Buildup on the way

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

this is going to be a dumb response i believe but did you actually pull a plug and ground it against the block to see if you get a spark firing

i know you said that you had spark to both sides of the coil pack but i dont remember seeing where you had spark coming from the coil pack

if i missed it then i apolologize for the useless post
but my last no start was that problem

1996 eclipse GS-T
1968 Ford Mustang
2004 Suzuki GSXR600
2006 Honda CBR1000RR
Decisions Decisions

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

C'mon guys, I know you guys MUST have something in the back of your head for me to try/test!!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

I don't have chit in mind...but you definitely need to get this diagnosed and fixed. My car is having almost exact same symptoms, so maybe your problem will be mine as well. Just go figure...I managed to drive the car once after finally getting a non-grenaded tranny swapped in lol.

Good luck to ya bro...and if I manage to figure mine out, I'll make sure to post about it just in case we're having the same issue

-Xavier-
95 Eclipse RS-T...lost in the frozen tundra

Well, after thinking long and hard, I have a couple suggestions, take them or leave them:
I noticed you never replaced the crank sensor because it started with it in. However, when it DID start, it ran like crap. And, you also noticed that you're not getting the number of sparks you're supposed to when cranking.

I suppose maybe you could try a new one of these.

I'm most intrigued by the fact that it started, and then shut off when the cam was plugged in. Why? What did the computer see that caused it to shut off? Were the crank and cam so far out of wack that it decided to shut it down? I don't know if that's the decision it makes based on that, but I guess it's a possibility.

Here's another possibilty. When connecting the cam sensor, you might have inadvertantely grounded something that shouldn't have been grounded. This freaked the ECU out and it shut down. Could the pigtail be at fault? Could faulty wiring or melted wiring be at fault?
I know you said you took the signal wire to the ECU, but that would check if there's a BREAK in the wire, not necessarily a short in the power or ground. Could there be a break in the power or ground wire to the cam sensor itself?

Just some thoughts. This one is a doosy!

Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

The black/green at the cam sensor is the ground wire. These are your wire descriptions for the cam and crank sensors:

Cam Sensor:

black/green = ground
Yellow = sensor power
blue/red = cam signal to ECU

Crank sensor:

black/green = ground
Yellow = sensor power
blue/white = crank signal to ECU

There are several tests you can do with this information, and a simple multimeter. To check the wires for any shorts or open circuits, use the continuity test on the meter, and first check for a wire possibly shorting to ground. Put one lead of the meter to battery ground, and the other lead to one of the sensor's 3 wires. Of course you should see a good ground on the black/green. You should not see any grounds with the key ON, on the yellow power wires. With the key off, the power wires may rest at ground, not too sure there. The signal wires, i believe, should not rest at ground as well. Now you can also test wire continuity from the sensor pigtail, to the ECU PIN. You want to test at the ECU pin, to also check for poor pin to wire connections. You should get full continuity from the sensor pigtail to the ECU pin, on each SIGNAL wire.

If the wire colors listed above are not the right ones at your sensors, then you have the wrong pigtails in the wrong sensors, although i dont think thats it. A faulty crank sensor and/or wiring is what i would be very suspect of..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Double check your timing. If it starts with out cam sensor pluged in it is using the crank sensor for the reference. So it will start but run like shit. It will smell like its loading up.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Man I really hope my car is not in the same boat as yours right now. I'm battling a no fire situation myself, and to me it seems to be my ignition switch...but we shall see. Good luck man.

http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1030

Ok before you rip out the harness, look at the Schematics to the ECU, make sure all the ground wires have good connectivity to the ground (ohm the wires to ground) and make sure all the 12V+ feeds for the ecu have good 12v signal on them.

Terry

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Okay, Terry and I talked a little bit today on the phone and he told me something to try:

Hook a test light up to the 2 end terminals on the coilpack harness, and while cranking it should flash on and off.

Well, it didnt, so what does this indicate? That there is no power coming from the ECU to the Coilpack? If so, what would cause it?

This is soo fucking crazy!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Lets take a step back and veryify some things..

You are not getting spark on one or both coils? correct?
YOu ARE getting 12volts on the center wire of the coil connector during crank, correct?

Next is to verify the ECU trigger signals on the end wires. I like to use a led tester for this, you can get one from snap on, ect, that flash the led for each trigger pulse. Thats the easiest way to find out if the ECU is sending the trigger signals to the coilpack. Do this, and then go from there.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Broken/shorted wiring from the coilpack, the crank sensor, or the ECU. The crank sensor is the MAIN sensor for the ECU to figure out when to fire the coilpack..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

i hooked up our scanner again, and while cranking, i know have a consistant cam, crank and asd relay signal!

what the hell can i do here guys!?!?!?!?!?!?!

also have 12v going to the coil, but it seems as if the ecu is obviusly not sending an output to fire the coil....

what kind of test can i do to confirm this?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

The ECU sees nothing related to oil pressure. The oil pressure sending unit on the back of the block only hooks straight to your gauge cluster in the dash. And its not really even a pressure sensor, more like a pressure switch. Too low of an oil pressure and it triggers the oil light in the dash. The ECU never sees this signal.

.........................................................................................................................

Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
.........................................................................................................................
2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Are there any mechanical problems besides the timing being wrong that cause no sparky?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

I'm just going to throw this out there... but you have an MSD ignition box or stock or Crane ignition box?

Many, MANY members here as well as on other boards have had their MSD boxes completely fail and give identical results as to what you are experiencing... search for a thread by ETX or Madhatter210 to see what Im talking about.
You need to completely remove it and not just use the bypass jumper.

.........................................................................................................................

Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
.........................................................................................................................
2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

What I need to find out is why it is only throwing out one spark every once and awhile out of the coil.....

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Take your test light and probe the 12volt wire on the coilpack harness. Watch this light as you are cranking. It should remain steady lit. I dont know if you have tried this yet, but did you use a new ASD relay? Try jumping the relay socket if you have a flickering 12volt signal at the coilpack. Just because the scanner says its got ASD reading, doesnt mean the relay is sending out power. The scanner is just saying the ECU is sending the ASD ground signal to the relay. Also, your LED test on the trigger wires, will sometimes only flash when there is 12 volts on the center wire.

UPDATE:

YOu know i just thought of something while looking over the schematics.. Has your speedometer worked before? Any issues with it? There are 3 sensors that share the ECU 5 volt reference signal which is the yelllow wire, that goes to the crank, cam, and speed sensors. I've seen instances where the speed sensor can short out, and this sends the 5v ECU power signal to shut down during the short. Try this, unplug your speed sensor, and check the wireing, and then just leave it unplugged. Now try and crank the engine, and see what happens..This could be why your gettign intermitent cam and crank signals..Be VERY suspect of that yellow 5 volt wire. Check that wire by all those 3 sensors, and all the way back to the ECU. There is a junction for that yellow wire, not sure where it is, but one yellow comes out of the ECU, to a junction, which from there goes to each of those sensors. Even the smallest short to ground can cause this issue, or a small break in the wire. YOu want to test for 5 volts on the yelllow wire at the crank and cam sensors as well, DURING crank to verifiy an issue on the yellow wire.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Seriously Mike, try a known good ecu, this reeks like an ECU problem.

Someone around you must have a 98, no junkyard ECU's either.

Terry

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

No more idea's

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Okay, there is a harness that goes from the ECU and plugs into the long harness that goes down to the crank sensor, knock sensor etc. Its about a 8 wire connector I think.

Question is, I unplugged it and the side coming out of the ECU at the yellow 9v signal wire, I have 9v. Now, on the other side of the connector (going down to the crank sensor and shit behind the block, on that connector, I have 0 volts... Shouldnt there be 9v on that side of the connector too?????

edit: n/m, it would help for it to be plugged in...

someone help here, lol!!!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Did you verify that you have all he proper grounds and 12v feeds to the ECU?

Edit: Make sure the harness to the crak sensor is ok but also, connect your scanner up and see what the value on the TPS is. Make sure the car is not in Flood clear mode.


Terry

For some odd reason, I knew this was not an electrical problem.

I checked timing again and it was fine, so I decided, what the hell, pull the cam gears off.

What do you know, A BROKEN DOWELL PIN ON THE EXHAUST cam!

This was therefor throwing off the signal for the cam sensor!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Can the dowell be knocked out somehow and punched back into place? I see it doesnt go through the whole cam here.

This is a stock cam too, not the crane turbo's anymore...

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Good deal, very misleading since the cam was still moving and giving signal yet not timed right.

For reference a 98 will start with no cam sensor, my 96 wont.

The dowel should be able to be removed by a machinest, it is possible for it to not go well and you might have to replace the cam.

For the price of a stock cam, just buy another good used one.

Terry

oh wow...I hope I don't end up goin down the same road as you did. I haven't had time at all lately with work and the kids to even touch my car, but damn I wanna fix the problem and install all these damn parts I've been stock piling...not to mention my squirt from Terry

congo rats on solving this doozy, you'll be back up in no time

-Xavier-
95 Eclipse RS-T...lost in the frozen tundra

That blue car got me boobies once

-Chris
1999 Eclipse T-GS


2.4 Project is Officially underway

umm...yeah the congo rats!!!

-Xavier-
95 Eclipse RS-T...lost in the frozen tundra

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

...take pics?

-Xavier-
95 Eclipse RS-T...lost in the frozen tundra

woah this was freaking fascinating. Total zebra - reminds me of some of the patient cases I hear about. Hope this thing cranks right up after the pin is replaced. You are going to feel so relieved, or end up hating your car forever now.

2gnt: '99 RS-T, killed by a toyota, pending rebuild...
Daily: Volt
Daily #2: '99 EVG ebike- STOLEN by PEDRO

Sorry I didnt take any pics, I wish I would have, but I rushed it to the machine shop to get it fixed, trying to get it rolling to hit the track for the first this year on saturday night!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

...good luck with that

I'm hoping my problem is just random burnt and melted wires from the damn egr

-Xavier-
95 Eclipse RS-T...lost in the frozen tundra

Okay I got everything put back together today, had to put the Crane turbo cams back in cuz the machine shop couldnt save the stockers, but oh well. Anyway, I went to start it up and it just cranked again, but I could deffinately tell by the sound of it cranking that one of the cams is 180 out. I did the good old one up one down with the AEM cam gears, but one is obviously out of time.

My question is, how do I tell which cam is out? Is there a way to check or something?

When I rotated my 2 revolutions to check my timing marks, it rotated okay, no valves touching the pistons, but I am positive its out.

So anywho, does anyone know a way to check to see which cam is out, or should I just rotate one of the two cams 180 in?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

pull the valve cover and look to see if both holes are facing up when at TDC.

Mike since your cran cms dont have the reference holes in them, take the stock cams or cam if you only have 1. You will see a 1/4" hole in the unfinished journal between cyl1 and cyl 2. When the #1 piston is at tdc, these holes point up perpendicular to the valve cover gasket surface. Looking at the cam/cams you have compare the dowel location in the aftermarket cams.

Terry

Mike,

If you still need the pair of stockers let me know. I also have the caps/gears for them. They are from a 95.

-Nate
________________
-97 Avenger I4 5spd (R.I.P.)
-95 Eclipse GS 5spd
-Mods: Megan Header, Megan Cat-Back, Pacesetter High-Flow Cat, AEM V2, Fluidyne Radiator
All-Motor Buildup on the way

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Those holes in the cams should be facing up on both cams. They're there for the tool designed to hold the cams in place when removing the bolts for the cam gears.

When at TDC, both holes (1 on each cam) should be facing upwards towards the valve cover.

~Luke
Facebook
1969 Cougar - 11.91 - 380HP
2007 GSXR 750
1999 OZ - SOLD - 15.26 NA - 14.71 on 75 shot

K my intake cam is the off one then.

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Just wanted to let everyone know that the green monster lives again. Fixed the cam today and she fired right up again

Thanks for all the help and support from everyone who contributed, this was a tough diagnosis, but it all worked out well!

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Congrats Mike. WOW was that a tough one!

Glad you got it fixed


Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast