I recently installed a Star Stage 2 turbo. I ran on 4 psi for about 3 weeks until receiving Hallman boost controller. I turned it up to bout 8 psi and it sputtered and died on the interstate...After pushing home I ran ODB code and it said to change CAM POS Sensor, So I did. It ran for a day then died again. Ran another code and it came up Cam pos sensor and Manuf. Ignition System or Misfire. Now my car runs passed 4k and dies, then won't start. When it does run...it will run for a few minutes, then at idle will just die. Ive replaced 3 cam sensors and now the car is misfiring. I've been reading up on here but no real answers. Before spending hundreds of dollars on Wires, Coil, O2 sensors, fuel filters etc.....id like to see if anyone knows a REAL answer, because my car only has 44K miles so these things couldn't be bad. PLEASE HELP any suggestions will be grately appreciated.

Change your crank position sensor. It will cause this (and fix it).


Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

Ok...just tried that...it seemed to help with the misfiring, but now whenever you put it in gear and barely let out on the clutch rpms drop and it wants to die, it starts right back up but put it in rev and let out a lil bit...dies again...seems to idle alright, could it be another cam sensor, or possibly clutch problems?

If the clutch feels NORMAL don't worry about it.

Are you starting the car in the COLD?

What does your fuel system consist of?

So you've changed the CAM AND CRANK sensors?

Does it run like shit all the time or just until it's warmed up?

Have you ever taken out the spark plugs?

Sorry for all the questions but....it'll kind of help.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

Get new bkr6e-11's and try and start it. It's obviously running really rich as far as the plugs go. I don't know why the walbro would cause it to run rich, it would just be dumping more fuel through the return line on the fmu......hmm.Is it clogged or is the line not big enough?

WHat year is your car?

Are there any codes right now? If there are I'd reset the ecu when you change the plugs.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

Get rid of the black box, the missing link is not gonna make you run rich so you need to buy it and put it on. It has nothing to do with fuel, it stops your ecu from seing positive boost and cutting fuel if it does see positive boose(if MS is not installed).

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

yah it sounds to me like your running wayyyy rich after 4k rpm.
how are you measuring your A/F ration?

*98 eclipse rs
*2005 srt4 (screw the warranty let the modifications begin)

The problem is definately your MAP sensor voltage. Once it sees over 4.7V it cuts the fuel...You NEED to do the map sensor mod or get a missing link.

I eat emo kids for breakfast

1995 Eagle Talon (SOLD)
72' SuperBeetle
72' Standard Beetle
56' Deluxe Beetle

The missing link you need, so if it doesnt fix the problem, the map sensor mods will not either so dont worry about doing it if your problem continues. It will have to be something else, but since you dont have either(map sensor or missing link), i think installing the missing link will help.

99 RS-T
"New bottom end(8.6:1 w/long rods)"
Turbonetics 60-1/Portfueler/etc!!!!!

Welp finally figured out the problem, pulled apart the timing gear cover and put the crank to TDC and saw the gears are a whole tooth off, so im waiting on a new UDP to come in and get it back on the road...thanks for help about the missing link and map sensor mod

D*mmit, I got the timing back aligned and put everything back together....started up fine and had no CEL lights....pulled outta the driveway and made it 50 yards and it just dies and won't turn back over....i ran a scan on it and it said P0340. Just so happens I picked up an extra CPS and put it in. Idled fine for 5 minutes with no light and got in to pull back out, light comes on again and engine stalls and dies. Ran code and the same code P0340 Cam sensor malfunction again. What do I need to check for now????!!!!? In desperate need for help...I really don't want to pay the cost for towing to a performance shop so any help with be appreciated


UPDATE::: I checked the voltage on the Cam position sensor and signal voltage was 4.99 which is good but its power supply was only 8.89...what could be causing such low voltage?

follow your wires from your cps. i bet they are grounding out on your egr tube.

you checked the cam sensor, but have you checked out the crank sensor too?

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

trace those wires dude i be you will find your problem.

I got a wacky suggestion.

Could it be that your timing belt tensioner is going? Is that how you lost some timing before, and is it possible that you're off again after driving for a minute?

It seems like it's fine when idling, but when the forces of shifting and acceleration happen, it might jump time? Would the misalignment in the Cam/crank position sensor cause the ECU to think one of them is faulty?

I would surely check the wires first (since that's easy), but if they're fine, check your timing again.


Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

Well, if the timing keeps jumping, a possiblity could be that the tensioner is shot. I'll be interested to hear the results of your timing check. If it's fine, then my idea is probably BS


Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

Any possible way the PCM could be the problem?

Anyone?

I think people have been having good luck with the mechanical one from Parts Dinosaur. There's a post about it right around here.


Brian

PS. Here's the link. I don't know if it's any cheaper (sorry, I didn't have time to look at all the prices) but if you're going to do it, it's worth looking at this thread.


http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=4&topic_id=79717&mesg_id=79717&listing_type=search

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

how is ur ignition system?

I just wish my car was as fast as it was loud. people tell me i should use my sub to push it, it might go faster.

UPDATE:: I think i finally found my problem. I haven't ordered a new ecu yet but i went out and started the car. I started messing with the wires on the ecu and all of a sudden my car dies. Started it back up then shook the top plug and you could actually make the car start to die and save it before it cuts off. I checked all of the wires and pinouts, nothing looked out of the ordinary. Before i check EVERY individual wire and pin or order a new ecu, do you have any suggestions? could be in the actual ecu? please help

You're on the right track. Take the plastic retainer (on the left side of the connector) off, and remove the wrap.

Start the car and wiggle each wire until you find the one that's bad.


Brian

Red 97 Eclipse GS (420a) MTX
Custom Garrett T3 Turbo system
Megasquirt w/52 lb/hr injectors & a Walbro 255
Kicker/Alpine Audio (3 amps, 2 subs)
90 Cav 2.2 TBI auto (winter) <- yeah, it's fast

Alright, I practically fondled all the wires in the top plug and it did nothing..but you can still tap the top on the plug and it will die. Still getting a p0340 code for cam sensor. Could it be an internal problem in the ecu?

Well I got my ecu in and still throwing the code....you can take the cam sensor out, clean it, and put it back on then the car will start but a few minutes later it will come back on and die.....what else?!

Sounds like the ECU is loosing the cam sensor signal..the engine will die out if it does..It def sounds like a wiring issue. At the cam sensor you have a blue/red which is the signal wire to the ECU, a black/green which is ground, and a yellow which is power, i believe 5-9 volts. You can find these wire colors at the ECU plug, and it will be easiest to test them with a proper tester. You can use a normal voltmeter to test for power and ground both at the sensor and at the ECU. The yellow wire coming from the ECU is sending that 5-9 volts power to several other sensors as well, including the crank sensor, so it could either be the ECU dropping the power out on the yellow wire or a bad wire, or a bad black/green wire loosing ground to the sensors. A bad signal wire (blue/red) would cause the ECU to loose the cam signal as well. I'm thinking its that blue/red wire somewhere between the sensor and the ECU plug. Find that wire at the plug, and be sure the pin in the ECU plug is not loose or a bad connection to the ECU pin. Maybe even try splicing in a loose wire from the blue/red at the sensor, to the blue/red at the ECU plug, bypassing the factory wiring, and see what happens. Be sure you have the proper wire though before you do so. Not sure if there are any other blue/red wires in the bunch. Tapping on the ECU plug really sounds fishy, so I would check the pins in the plug, and the corresponding ECU pin. Check for tightness, and also any corrosion.

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)