I recently installed a Star Stage 2 turbo. I ran on 4 psi for about 3 weeks until receiving Hallman boost controller. I turned it up to bout 8 psi and it sputtered and died on the interstate...After pushing home I ran ODB code and it said to change CAM POS Sensor, So I did. It ran for a day then died again. Ran another code and it came up Cam pos sensor and Manuf. Ignition System or Misfire. Now my car runs passed 4k and dies, then won't start. When it does run...it will run for a few minutes, then at idle will just die. Ive replaced 3 cam sensors and now the car is misfiring. I've been reading up on here but no real answers. Before spending hundreds of dollars on Wires, Coil, O2 sensors, fuel filters etc.....id like to see if anyone knows a REAL answer, because my car only has 44K miles so these things couldn't be bad. PLEASE HELP any suggestions will be grately appreciated.

Change your crank position sensor. It will cause this (and fix it).


Brian

Ok...just tried that...it seemed to help with the misfiring, but now whenever you put it in gear and barely let out on the clutch rpms drop and it wants to die, it starts right back up but put it in rev and let out a lil bit...dies again...seems to idle alright, could it be another cam sensor, or possibly clutch problems?

If the clutch feels NORMAL don't worry about it.

Are you starting the car in the COLD?

What does your fuel system consist of?

So you've changed the CAM AND CRANK sensors?

Does it run like shit all the time or just until it's warmed up?

Have you ever taken out the spark plugs?

Sorry for all the questions but....it'll kind of help. :P

Originally posted by Blizare
What does your fuel system consist of?

I would like to know this also, how did it run fine at 4psi but started acting up when turned up to 8psi.

Originally posted by Blizare
If the clutch feels NORMAL don't worry about it. Are you starting the car in the COLD? What does your fuel system consist of? So you've changed the CAM AND CRANK sensors? Does it run like shit all the time or just until it's warmed up? Have you ever taken out the spark plugs? Sorry for all the questions but....it'll kind of help. :P

Clutch feels normal

Am starting in the cold but i had time to warm up and ran for a minute, then pull it back into driveway and backed it out when it wanted to die.

Fuel system is the system that came with the star kit, walbro fuel pump and 12:1 FMU

Runs like shit all the time

I checked the spark plugs a week ago and they were fine but since i put the walbro pump in and i just checked them again and they are black...so i will change them tomorrow since autozone is closed...then i will get back to you'll if still havin problems...thanks for the help

Get new bkr6e-11's and try and start it. It's obviously running really rich as far as the plugs go. I don't know why the walbro would cause it to run rich, it would just be dumping more fuel through the return line on the fmu......hmm.Is it clogged or is the line not big enough?

WHat year is your car?

Are there any codes right now? If there are I'd reset the ecu when you change the plugs.

Originally posted by Blizare
Get new bkr6e-11's and try and start it. It's obviously running really rich as far as the plugs go. I don't know why the walbro would cause it to run rich, it would just be dumping more fuel through the return line on the fmu......hmm.Is it clogged or is the line not big enough? WHat year is your car? Are there any codes right now? If there are I'd reset the ecu when you change the plugs.

No, lines aren't clogged....and not gettin any black smoke out of the exhaust, the car is a '99...one concern i have is that I am using the "black box" map extender....I tried using the ML but it was running WAYYYYY to rich and foulin plugs in 30 seconds and wouldn't idle right, so i took it off and sent it back...could this box be a cause of problem? The last codes i got were the Cam Position sensor (which i have replaced 3 times) and some Manufactor Ignition System or Misfire (when looked up it says something about an Octane Pin) Guys at autozone couldn't tell me exactly what I needed so there is a good tuner in town i will have to ask. I will get the plugs and the ODB reader again to see what codes it has since i have put the Crank pos sensor in

Get rid of the black box, the missing link is not gonna make you run rich so you need to buy it and put it on. It has nothing to do with fuel, it stops your ecu from seing positive boost and cutting fuel if it does see positive boose(if MS is not installed).

yah it sounds to me like your running wayyyy rich after 4k rpm.
how are you measuring your A/F ration?

Originally posted by midnitetill678
yah it sounds to me like your running wayyyy rich after 4k rpm. how are you measuring your A/F ration?

Havent had the funds to splurge for the wideband, so im using reg lowband A/F gauge, it is idle right on stoich and running a little rich but nothing major....it is throwing a CEL so i will get a reading from it today

The problem is definately your MAP sensor voltage. Once it sees over 4.7V it cuts the fuel...You NEED to do the map sensor mod or get a missing link.

Originally posted by Blizare
The problem is definately your MAP sensor voltage. Once it sees over 4.7V it cuts the fuel...You NEED to do the map sensor mod or get a missing link.

Alright I contacted Importparts to send me a new missing link, if that don't work i'll try the map sensor mod....thanks for the help

The missing link you need, so if it doesnt fix the problem, the map sensor mods will not either so dont worry about doing it if your problem continues. It will have to be something else, but since you dont have either(map sensor or missing link), i think installing the missing link will help.

Welp finally figured out the problem, pulled apart the timing gear cover and put the crank to TDC and saw the gears are a whole tooth off, so im waiting on a new UDP to come in and get it back on the road...thanks for help about the missing link and map sensor mod

D*mmit, I got the timing back aligned and put everything back together....started up fine and had no CEL lights....pulled outta the driveway and made it 50 yards and it just dies and won't turn back over....i ran a scan on it and it said P0340. Just so happens I picked up an extra CPS and put it in. Idled fine for 5 minutes with no light and got in to pull back out, light comes on again and engine stalls and dies. Ran code and the same code P0340 Cam sensor malfunction again. What do I need to check for now????!!!!? In desperate need for help...I really don't want to pay the cost for towing to a performance shop so any help with be appreciated


UPDATE::: I checked the voltage on the Cam position sensor and signal voltage was 4.99 which is good but its power supply was only 8.89...what could be causing such low voltage?

follow your wires from your cps. i bet they are grounding out on your egr tube.

you checked the cam sensor, but have you checked out the crank sensor too?

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
you checked the cam sensor, but have you checked out the crank sensor too?

yup...changed it and its connecter

trace those wires dude i be you will find your problem.

I got a wacky suggestion.

Could it be that your timing belt tensioner is going? Is that how you lost some timing before, and is it possible that you're off again after driving for a minute?

It seems like it's fine when idling, but when the forces of shifting and acceleration happen, it might jump time? Would the misalignment in the Cam/crank position sensor cause the ECU to think one of them is faulty?

I would surely check the wires first (since that's easy), but if they're fine, check your timing again.


Brian

Originally posted by ForceFed420a
I got a wacky suggestion. Could it be that your timing belt tensioner is going? Is that how you lost some timing before, and is it possible that you're off again after driving for a minute? It seems like it's fine when idling, but when the forces of shifting and acceleration happen, it might jump time? Would the misalignment in the Cam/crank position sensor cause the ECU to think one of them is faulty? I would surely check the wires first (since that's easy), but if they're fine, check your timing again. Brian

I'll have to check that again...I haven't had a chance to run the code again to see if my timing has jumped a tooth again or not...i check the wires and didn't see any problems...What is a give-away that the tensioner has gone?...When I reinstalled the tensioner it seemed to put tension back on the pulley..

Well, if the timing keeps jumping, a possiblity could be that the tensioner is shot. I'll be interested to hear the results of your timing check. If it's fine, then my idea is probably BS :)


Brian

Any possible way the PCM could be the problem?

Anyone?

Originally posted by Bigtymr1021
Any possible way the PCM could be the problem?

It's possible, however, remotely so.

Sounds like you're just running extremely rich to me, but the constant CMP CELs is a sign to me that your timing isn't right. I know what you're thinking right now - "But I just redid it and it's fine! I don't want to pull all that shit off again!" You're still going to have to. :(

My tensioner took a shit on me back in August. I would redo timing dead on where it needed to be, but once the engine ran for a second or two, the belt would slack up just enough to lose proper compression. The engine would crank like normal, even to the point of draining the battery, but it would not turn over. I got a CMP code and spent a good two days with a buddy troubleshooting the entire electrical system - wire harness, CAS, and CMP. If you backprobe your sensors, you will see an alternating 5VDC as the engine cranks (be sure to have the fuel pump and ASD relays disconnected when doing this to be safe). The CMP will be easier to see, since the cams turn at half the speed of the crank.

In any case, the only thing I can tell you to give you a light at the end of the tunnel is this, before you bolt up the timing belt cover and UDP this time, find a way to align a hole in the UDP with the mark on the crank sprocket. Then, cut a small hole in the cover over the mark on the oil pump. This way, when you have it all back together and want to double check timing, you can pull the wheel and use a wrench to turn the crank until the lower mark lines up (through these holes) without having to fuck with the mount and all the other ancillary bullshit.

I seriously think you've got a tired tensioner, man. The same thing had me and a handful of buddies scratching our heads and cussing for a good week. (Can you imagine redoing your timing four nights in a row after work? It sucked.)

Good luck to you.

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by Bigtymr1021 Any possible way the PCM could be the problem?

It's possible, however, remotely so. Sounds like you're just running extremely rich to me, but the constant CMP CELs is a sign to me that your timing isn't right. I know what you're thinking right now - "But I just redid it and it's fine! I don't want to pull all that shit off again!" You're still going to have to. :( My tensioner took a shit on me back in August. I would redo timing dead on where it needed to be, but once the engine ran for a second or two, the belt would slack up just enough to lose proper compression. The engine would crank like normal, even to the point of draining the battery, but it would not turn over. I got a CMP code and spent a good two days with a buddy troubleshooting the entire electrical system - wire harness, CAS, and CMP. If you backprobe your sensors, you will see an alternating 5VDC as the engine cranks (be sure to have the fuel pump and ASD relays disconnected when doing this to be safe). The CMP will be easier to see, since the cams turn at half the speed of the crank. In any case, the only thing I can tell you to give you a light at the end of the tunnel is this, before you bolt up the timing belt cover and UDP this time, find a way to align a hole in the UDP with the mark on the crank sprocket. Then, cut a small hole in the cover over the mark on the oil pump. This way, when you have it all back together and want to double check timing, you can pull the wheel and use a wrench to turn the crank until the lower mark lines up (through these holes) without having to fuck with the mount and all the other ancillary bullshit. I seriously think you've got a tired tensioner, man. The same thing had me and a handful of buddies scratching our heads and cussing for a good week. (Can you imagine redoing your timing four nights in a row after work? It sucked.) Good luck to you.

Sounds like you went through some troubling times too...i'll get the ecu in and if that doesn't do the trick i'll go with your ideas and change the timing tensioner...where can i pick up a good one without spending $200??

I think people have been having good luck with the mechanical one from Parts Dinosaur. There's a post about it right around here.


Brian

PS. Here's the link. I don't know if it's any cheaper (sorry, I didn't have time to look at all the prices) but if you're going to do it, it's worth looking at this thread.


http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=4&topic_id=79717&mesg_id=79717&listing_type=search

how is ur ignition system?

Originally posted by VOTBLINDUB
how is ur ignition system?

Checked all ignition ohms and voltage, everything was in range

UPDATE:: I think i finally found my problem. I haven't ordered a new ecu yet but i went out and started the car. I started messing with the wires on the ecu and all of a sudden my car dies. Started it back up then shook the top plug and you could actually make the car start to die and save it before it cuts off. I checked all of the wires and pinouts, nothing looked out of the ordinary. Before i check EVERY individual wire and pin or order a new ecu, do you have any suggestions? could be in the actual ecu? please help

You're on the right track. Take the plastic retainer (on the left side of the connector) off, and remove the wrap.

Start the car and wiggle each wire until you find the one that's bad.


Brian

Alright, I practically fondled all the wires in the top plug and it did nothing..but you can still tap the top on the plug and it will die. Still getting a p0340 code for cam sensor. Could it be an internal problem in the ecu?

Well I got my ecu in and still throwing the code....you can take the cam sensor out, clean it, and put it back on then the car will start but a few minutes later it will come back on and die.....what else?!

Sounds like the ECU is loosing the cam sensor signal..the engine will die out if it does..It def sounds like a wiring issue. At the cam sensor you have a blue/red which is the signal wire to the ECU, a black/green which is ground, and a yellow which is power, i believe 5-9 volts. You can find these wire colors at the ECU plug, and it will be easiest to test them with a proper tester. You can use a normal voltmeter to test for power and ground both at the sensor and at the ECU. The yellow wire coming from the ECU is sending that 5-9 volts power to several other sensors as well, including the crank sensor, so it could either be the ECU dropping the power out on the yellow wire or a bad wire, or a bad black/green wire loosing ground to the sensors. A bad signal wire (blue/red) would cause the ECU to loose the cam signal as well. I'm thinking its that blue/red wire somewhere between the sensor and the ECU plug. Find that wire at the plug, and be sure the pin in the ECU plug is not loose or a bad connection to the ECU pin. Maybe even try splicing in a loose wire from the blue/red at the sensor, to the blue/red at the ECU plug, bypassing the factory wiring, and see what happens. Be sure you have the proper wire though before you do so. Not sure if there are any other blue/red wires in the bunch. Tapping on the ECU plug really sounds fishy, so I would check the pins in the plug, and the corresponding ECU pin. Check for tightness, and also any corrosion.

Originally posted by XtremeRS
Sounds like the ECU is loosing the cam sensor signal..the engine will die out if it does..It def sounds like a wiring issue. At the cam sensor you have a blue/red which is the signal wire to the ECU, a black/green which is ground, and a yellow which is power, i believe 5-9 volts. You can find these wire colors at the ECU plug, and it will be easiest to test them with a proper tester. You can use a normal voltmeter to test for power and ground both at the sensor and at the ECU. The yellow wire coming from the ECU is sending that 5-9 volts power to several other sensors as well, including the crank sensor, so it could either be the ECU dropping the power out on the yellow wire or a bad wire, or a bad black/green wire loosing ground to the sensors. A bad signal wire (blue/red) would cause the ECU to loose the cam signal as well. I'm thinking its that blue/red wire somewhere between the sensor and the ECU plug. Find that wire at the plug, and be sure the pin in the ECU plug is not loose or a bad connection to the ECU pin. Maybe even try splicing in a loose wire from the blue/red at the sensor, to the blue/red at the ECU plug, bypassing the factory wiring, and see what happens. Be sure you have the proper wire though before you do so. Not sure if there are any other blue/red wires in the bunch. Tapping on the ECU plug really sounds fishy, so I would check the pins in the plug, and the corresponding ECU pin. Check for tightness, and also any corrosion.

AHHHH FINALLY BOOSTING AGAIN!!!Well it wasn't the sensor wire but the ground wire was shorting out on something and causing the car to die. Probably the EGR pipe...thanks for all the help and suggestions from everyone