95 eagle talon esi I am running about 160hp at the flywheel, I have a unorthodox underdrive pulley, 2.25in maganflo cat-back, bosh plugs and wires, ams oil 0w30 oil
ceneterforce clutch and flywheel, on the way I have a dc sports 4-2-1 header, and ingen rd cai, and iluminas lowering suspension, i also am running a 16in rota gt3 wheel with a cooper zeon 2xs..very good tire..lightweel, the car runs very good, i dont have the money to turbo right now and proally wont for a while (im still in highschool) i was looking at the aem cam gears, and a highflo catback..mabye a ecu upgrade...very new to ecu upgrading..who makes a good one for our cars?

no "good" ecu upgrades for 95.

1995 Eclipse RS

Next big power adder for n/a is cams. It gets pretty costly to add some beefy cams, but you can get some less aggressive cams and not have to worry about upgrading your springs. Head work would add a little, but our heads seem to flow well while n/a and even lightly boosted. I would say to get some Crower turbo 2's. They work well while n/a and will also work well when turbo'd. Just keep in mind that while n/a your car will be slow. So save up and happy boosting

-Roman

Where do you live Keith, this will determine how far you can go with mods as some states are more strict than others. If you live in CA like me then everything needs to go back to stock in a day (or look stock) so you can get by the smog patrol. Cams and cam gears are a nice, hideable mod;
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_mesg&forum=32&topic_id=91&mesg_id=91&page=
this is a good place to start learning about that. For any decent power increase from an ECU, your going to have to go with a stand-alone, I would insert a shameless plug for the MegaSquirt here, but if your new to tuning then no one should point you that direction yet. Don't get the S-AFC or a Venom unit, the S-AFC has some negative side effects (advances timing) and the Venom unit doesn't work at WOT, which is where you'll be if you're looking for power increasing mods.
You could start considering some porting work, $145 for a 55mm throttle body from insert random business name here and you could take your intake to a local machine shop (or research it and port it your self) to hog out some aluminum and create some space for flow. This type of stuff needs to be researched first as the more you port, the more you'll lose off the bottom-end (generally).
The only real place to go from there is a rebuilt engine or a power adder, and we all know the cheapest of the three (and the easiest to mess up) is Nitrous (don't let anyone try to convince you to go to a supercharger, it's not worth it for where you are right now). Just do a bunch of reading, you'll find your way.

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Why keep throwing money into your N/A trying to get it too fast?

By the time you fork in the cash for some cams, nitrous, port work, etc, your half way to a turbo kit.

Just keep saving until you have enough $$$ for a turbo kit, its better to be slower for the next 6 months or however long it will take you save until you can turbo, its all worth it in the end.

Boost is great. Go take yourself in a ride that turbo'd, you will quit spending money into your n/a and start saving for a kit.

Like ^^^^^^ said, Happy Boosting

-MIKE-

Stroked 2.2L

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
Why keep throwing money into your N/A trying to get it too fast? By the time you fork in the cash for some cams, nitrous, port work, etc, your half way to a turbo kit. Just keep saving until you have enough $$$ for a turbo kit, its better to be slower for the next 6 months or however long it will take you save until you can turbo, its all worth it in the end. Boost is great. Go take yourself in a ride that turbo'd, you will quit spending money into your n/a and start saving for a kit. Like ^^^^^^ said, Happy Boosting

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Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by injendsm

Originally posted by talon749 95 I am running about 160hp at the flywheel, I have a unorthodox underdrive pulley, 2.25in maganflo cat-back, bosh plugs and wires, ams oil 0w30 oil ceneterforce clutch and flywheel

not to be an ass, but how do you figure your car having 160hp at the flywheel?

Geez, Greg. It's obvious he pulled the engine out after he installed the UDP, cat back, mad-tyte Platinum plugs, and Marvel Mystery Oil, strapped it to an engine dyno and they gave him a slip showing "about 160hp." It might be 159.2, but that's about 160 imo. In other words, I was wondering the same thing myself. You spent too much on the DC header. You spent too much on the Injen intake (imo). Name brand intake and exhaust are foolish for anyone with turbo plans. There is no ECU upgrade to be done or for sale unless you run a 97 MTX. If you have a "maganflo" catback, why are you also planning on buying a high-flow cat back? I'd say something about the kid with all the problems advising turbo being the way to go, but considering I'm the all motor guy with all the problems, I'll just leave it to a subtle jeering like so. And don't sweat all the people who tell you that it's pointless to build on your engine and to "just boost it." Guess what, if you want to be a serious player and be faster than a stock turbo car, you're going to need to get into that engine one day.

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Two words: Extrude Hone.

When is the money spending going to stop on this fucking car?!

-Roman

N/A has advantages, we just need to unlock our engines hidden power, if a honda can make 250whp N/A, so can we. I think it's hidden in the computer!

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )

It's the VVEEEEETECH man!!

-Roman

www.gregsorrells.com

http://ubanimator.com>

Turbo.

Representing the Central Cali chapter of 2GNT!
(I think I'm the only member )