I have replaced the rear main seal three times since the my rebuild and i dont even have 50 miles on the motor yet. Is there any way to tell if the block is cracked besides looking for the crack. i already inspected the block around the seal for cracks and i didnt find anything. i doesnt leak anything until it reaches normal operating temp. And yes i do know how to install a rear main seal.
"status as of now " busted420a powered by: 25g, crane cams valve springs retainers, ported head, ported manifold, oversize valves, 60mm tb, je pistions eagle rods, total seal rings,afx pulley, aem cam gears, spearco fmic, turbo xs bov, msd coil and wires, craptech
#92402, "RE: Cracked block?" In response to Reply # 1
I had the same problem with my car when I bought it. The guy that I bought it from just had rebuilt the engine, but it leaked oil after it warmed up. He replaced the rear seal again and it still leaked, so he decided to sell the car because he was tired of working on it. Well, anyway to make a long story short. When I took out the rear seal I inspected crank and there was a very small nick on the crank where the seal runs on it. I don't know if he nicked it when he put the engine together or the machine shop did it when they had the parts. After I disassembled the engine I found a lot of other things that were wrong with it so I ended up building it to where it is now.
#92408, "RE: Cracked block?" In response to Reply # 2
i put anaroebic sealant around the bedplate, but not around the seal itself. i lubed the rubber portion up with oil and used the plastic ring they give you with seal to put in place. The first seal i put in i thought itd be easier to put on before i torqued the bedplate down. The second time i put in as normal. Tapping it with a plastic hammer.
How bad was your leak? by the way
"status as of now " busted420a powered by: 25g, crane cams valve springs retainers, ported head, ported manifold, oversize valves, 60mm tb, je pistions eagle rods, total seal rings,afx pulley, aem cam gears, spearco fmic, turbo xs bov, msd coil and wires, craptech
#92409, "RE: Cracked block?" In response to Reply # 3
i talked to the machine shop to. Keep in mind Ive done alot businees with this place so they know me fairly well. but anyways he told me they dipped my block and then magnafluxed it. but im not quite sure of what magnafluxing it is.
"status as of now " busted420a powered by: 25g, crane cams valve springs retainers, ported head, ported manifold, oversize valves, 60mm tb, je pistions eagle rods, total seal rings,afx pulley, aem cam gears, spearco fmic, turbo xs bov, msd coil and wires, craptech
#92410, "RE: Cracked block?" In response to Reply # 4
ok what exactly is anaerobic sealant I asked the people at Auto Zone and they had no idea what I'm talking about...I mean nobody knew what it was even the store manager is there another name for it?
#92415, "RE: Cracked block?" In response to Reply # 6
Originally posted by ner947 It's this red jelly-like substance that makes a gasket and seals without the presence of oxygen. It also goes by "Loctite 518" In regards to Autozone... I told this guy at Napa some of my experences with Autozone and he put it this way "Stay out of the zone"
#92411, "RE: Cracked block?" In response to Reply # 4
Originally posted by jayden1 but im not quite sure of what magnafluxing it is.
The Magnafluxing process should show any cracks in your block. If the block was magnafluxed and it showed now cracks - then there are no cracks in the block.
#92416, "RE: Cracked block?" In response to Reply # 8
I've always used my finger to put a thin film of RTV around the edge of the main seal. Then tapped it in squarely with a mallet. You might expect there to be a slight imperfection right where the bedplate meets the block. The RTV will seal that. Perhaps you are leaking from an oil gallery plug higher up.
Corbin
'95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks
Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire
#92423, "RE: Cracked block?" In response to Reply # 10
magnaflux is a process where you clamp two magnets adjacent to each other in common places where cracks can occur. Then little metal bits are sprikled in that area and if a crack is there, they line up along the crack so it's visible. Alot of times when I have rear main probs with older 2 piece seals, I check the thrust bearing and end clearence to be sure that the crank is not riding on that seal and bashing against it. I do just like Corbin does with the black RTF b/c it will fill in any inperfections.
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