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Sup guys. I decided to rebuild the engine MYSELF! I will get a machine shop to bore/hone/clean my block, grind crank for over side rode bearing. Then I will assemble it.
Can someone please tell me the DETAILS of what things I should do.
I have a LONG ROD Howell bottom end rebuilt kit. 0.020 bored over.
First. What's the order for me to assemble the block? please tell me if the below is correct order and which step requires the lubricates, and etc... ---Go to the machine shop--- 1) Have the engine block clean/bore/hone 2) Get the crank grind down for over size rod bearing 3) Balance the crank,block,piston,rods, etc..
---After machine shop, I assemble--- 4) Lubricate the crank journal with engine oil? that goes between the block/bedplate completely! main bearing to block, main bearing to crank journal, crank to main bearing, main bearing to bedplate. (correct? or different lubricate?) 5) Install the crank onto the block after lubricate, then install the bedplate (with the main bearing...) 6) Install the rear main seal 7) Prime the oil pump with Vasoline (pack it) 8) Install the oil pump to the block then install the front main seal. 9) Install the crank sprocket
---Now I move on to the piston/ring/rod/wrist pins--- 10) Put the rings into the engine cylinder and check for ring gap, sand it down if needed 11) Install them into the piston, do I require to lubricate the rings before install or after install or at all? I am using total seal piston rings, so?? 12) lubricate the wrist pin and the piston pin hole with engine oil 13) place the rod to the piston and install the wrist pin
---Install the piston/rod into the engine--- 14) Lubricate all rod bearings surface with engine oil, rod to bearing, bearing to crank journal, crank journal to bearing, bearing to rod cap (correct? or different lubricate?) 15) Lubricate each cylinder wall with engine oil before installing the pistons (correct? or different lubricate? or do I need to lubricate them since I use total seal rings?) 16) Compress the rings and place them into each cylinder 17) Place into the crank, and tight the rod to spec (just tighten it? because turning the rod cap bolt that hard might damage the bearing doesn't it?)
Anyplace I have to check for gaps? specs? Please give me any thing you can think of. I have the electronic manual and the book. But I really have to ask them here again, coz I never DID a rebuild before personally (in this detail)
So thanks again. Gil ~~~~~~~~Modification~~~~~~~~ Performance: MegaSquirt v3.0 Fuel & Spark, 8.6:1 JE piston, Eagle Long Rods, SPEC III Clutch, EVOIII B16G, FMIC, Aeromotive 1:1 FPR, Walbro 255HP, 680cc Injectors, 2.5" DP, 3" Magnaflow Cat, 3.5" Greddy EVO CatBack, Greddy Electronic EGT,FUEL,BOOST,A/F gauges... Interior: Racing Seats, Metallic Interior, 15-Speakers System, Keyless, Dynomat Insulated, Neons... Exterior: 1999 Body with turbo wing, Halo Projector Headlight, 4300K HID, 17" Mille Rims, GSX Calipers... Coming Soon: Water Injection, Redo Undercarriage, Repaint Exterior
 $240 For New Complete GSX Calipers Kit (Calipers, Bracket, Shim, Pad, Bolts, etc) Email Me If Interested!
1995 RED Eclipse GS-'T': Stage VI 20PSI 2010 Audi S5 Quattro
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