Well I am in the process of replacing a head gasket and I am unsure of where to put the jack to support the enging while removing the engine mount. Also is it absolutley necessary to use a jawed pulley to remove the crank shaft? I don't know if I can afford that.

'95 GSX - Big16G ~ Leaks, but atleast it runs.

Take your jack and a thick board.. like a 2x4 and jack up on the oil pan. Put the board long-ways down the oil pan to ensure you distribute the weight as evenly as possible. Jack up on the board.

I've always used block of wood on a jack and made sure it was supported securely under the oil pan. Only jack enough to support the weight of the motor, you can jack the motor up slightly if you have a hard time reaching the side motor mount plate bolts. I was able to reach in there and get em out.


Built shortblock 8.8:1 CP pistons, Eagle Rods
Built head w/ P&P by ERT
Apex'i N1 catback
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers
3000 stall torque converter

im getting ready to do my UDP and the write up says what ^^^ they are saying, jack up on a board under the oil pan.

It doesnt say which way to put the board though, so you guys think its better to put the board long-ways like from front to back?

1998 GS
Mods: Cold air intake, Ported/polished stock intake manifold, AFX 55mm TB, Pacesetter header,
Custom Magnaflow cat-back exhaust system, AFX Underdrive pulley,
B&M short throw shifter(cut/welded), Symborski Shift Kit, Solid front motor mount, Monster ground wire kit.

Status: Finally up and running!

Side to side, running long ways across the pan to distribute the weight evenly.


Built shortblock 8.8:1 CP pistons, Eagle Rods
Built head w/ P&P by ERT
Apex'i N1 catback
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers
3000 stall torque converter

Correct me if i'm wrong, but theres only 3 bolts holding the mount to the motor?

'95 GSX - Big16G ~ Leaks, but atleast it runs.

You can "rent" a crankshaft pulley puller from Autozone, if there's one local to you. They require a deposit (I forget, but I think it was about $60); you get the deposit money back when you return the tool.

___________
Kon C

"Sometimes, a man has to do what a man has to do."

man, im glad i dont run the timing belt covers any more. i can do a hg in less then 4 hours.

'95 GSX - Big16G ~ Leaks, but atleast it runs.

Sorry to reply to a few year old thread. But who in the right mind would risk doing a timing belt job, due to a rock kicking up in there, I mean Just to make other jobs easier? Okay I could understand on a Track Car, I my self have a small spot cut where the block and head meet. Anyways I just don't see why you would run with it off, it seems so stupid for people that have put lots of time and effort into there DSM "Money Pit". I know I can't seem to fathom running without it.


I know someone has to agree with me on the simple fact that a HG takes awhile sure, but To make it quicker by putting your timing belt in harms way, on top of that On an INTERFERENCE motor.

Sorry but its the way I feel.

The general consensus is to at least leave the lower half of the cover in place. Personally I learned my lesson the hard way when my alt belt broke and launched itself into the timing belt.

Erik P.
Official 2GNT thread Hijacker
Some say that he's driven over more Covenant than he's shot, and that his grenades aren't where you'd expect them to be...
All we know is, He's not The Stig... But he is The Stig's Spartan cousin!

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

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