Well I am in the process of replacing a head gasket and I am unsure of where to put the jack to support the enging while removing the engine mount. Also is it absolutley necessary to use a jawed pulley to remove the crank shaft? I don't know if I can afford that.

Take your jack and a thick board.. like a 2x4 and jack up on the oil pan. Put the board long-ways down the oil pan to ensure you distribute the weight as evenly as possible. Jack up on the board.

I've always used block of wood on a jack and made sure it was supported securely under the oil pan. Only jack enough to support the weight of the motor, you can jack the motor up slightly if you have a hard time reaching the side motor mount plate bolts. I was able to reach in there and get em out.


Built shortblock 8.8:1 CP pistons, Eagle Rods
Built head w/ P&P by ERT
Apex'i N1 catback
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers
3000 stall torque converter

im getting ready to do my UDP and the write up says what ^^^ they are saying, jack up on a board under the oil pan.

It doesnt say which way to put the board though, so you guys think its better to put the board long-ways like from front to back?

Side to side, running long ways across the pan to distribute the weight evenly.


Built shortblock 8.8:1 CP pistons, Eagle Rods
Built head w/ P&P by ERT
Apex'i N1 catback
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers
3000 stall torque converter

Correct me if i'm wrong, but theres only 3 bolts holding the mount to the motor?

You can "rent" a crankshaft pulley puller from Autozone, if there's one local to you. They require a deposit (I forget, but I think it was about $60); you get the deposit money back when you return the tool.

Originally posted by destruckeclipse
Correct me if i'm wrong, but theres only 3 bolts holding the mount to the motor?

Theres 3 bolts that hold the mount where the bushings are. 2 on top, 1 that goes through the mount. There is also 3 longer ones that hold the plate looking piece that fits up agains the engine. 2 at the top, 1 at the bottom.


Built shortblock 8.8:1 CP pistons, Eagle Rods
Built head w/ P&P by ERT
Apex'i N1 catback
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers
3000 stall torque converter

man, im glad i dont run the timing belt covers any more. i can do a hg in less then 4 hours.

Originally posted by grain
man, im glad i dont run the timing belt covers any more. i can do a hg in less then 4 hours.

Yeah, I plan to leave them off, this is my first tbelt job so they definately staying off after this.

Sorry to reply to a few year old thread. But who in the right mind would risk doing a timing belt job, due to a rock kicking up in there, I mean Just to make other jobs easier? Okay I could understand on a Track Car, I my self have a small spot cut where the block and head meet. Anyways I just don't see why you would run with it off, it seems so stupid for people that have put lots of time and effort into there DSM "Money Pit". I know I can't seem to fathom running without it.


I know someone has to agree with me on the simple fact that a HG takes awhile sure, but To make it quicker by putting your timing belt in harms way, on top of that On an INTERFERENCE motor.

Sorry but its the way I feel.

The general consensus is to at least leave the lower half of the cover in place. Personally I learned my lesson the hard way when my alt belt broke and launched itself into the timing belt.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
Personally I learned my lesson the hard way when my alt belt broke and launched itself into the timing belt.

I didn't :P

But then again, nobody said I'm in my right mind.......