Since my engine hydrolocked, I've decided to pull the engine out to have it ready for a rebuild. What I want to know though, is it possible to take the head off without taking the cams off? TIA!
Brian West Melbourne, FL 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS(White) 1965 Ford Falcon
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#79968, "RE: Removal of head..." In response to Reply # 0
Yes, but the head bolts won't be able to be removed because the cams will still be in they way. But you have enough room to unthread the headbolts and still remove the heads. I know, I have done it.
#79972, "RE: Removal of head..." In response to Reply # 2
theres really no point to leaving them in. you will have to do timing again anyway, and considering the overall job, taking the cams out will be cake.
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#79975, "RE: Removal of head..." In response to Reply # 4
Just pull the fucking cams. You should be using ARP Head studs anyways. Reusing stock headbolts is an idea best left to shitheads. You aren't a shithead, are you?
#79980, "RE: Removal of head..." In response to Reply # 5
Originally posted by Ducking_Fumbass Just pull the fucking cams. You should be using ARP Head studs anyways. Reusing stock headbolts is an idea best left to shitheads. You aren't a shithead, are you?
Hmm, I ran stock headbolts for ~4 years running 22psi+ on pumpgas and they weren't stretched at all. Headgasket blew cause it was the old defective one, but headbolts were fine. I agree you shouldn't reuse them though, for 26 bucks, just buy a new set.
Just pull the head out with the cams in and remove them once its out if you decide. And yes, you can torque the head down just fine with the cams in.
#79981, "RE: Removal of head..." In response to Reply # 7
I don't trust a torque rating unless the socket is perfectly parallel to the bolt being torqued. Deflection can artificially increase torque reading (and make you under-torque your headbolts!) in the same way that a U-joint reduces the delivered torque as it is bent. Also, avoid excessively extending when torquing to spec... extensions will also take up some torque. What happens is that a few ft/lbs goes into twisting the extensions before the torque is transmitted. Wobble extensions are especially notorious for this.
None of this really matters, though, as there really isn't a specific torque value for stock headbolts, it is more "torque to this, then break your ratchet turning it another 90 degrees." Stupid idea, if you ask me. THAT is why I recommend ARPs.
#79985, "RE: Removal of head..." In response to Reply # 8
I agree... hehe.. If the head bolts would have been stretched just the slightest when I removed the head I would have got ARP's studs kit, but I am a combination of cheap and stubborn
As for your justification on torque, excellent... That is why I use a torque analizer to dial in the settings when I have to use extensions.
#80028, "RE: Removal of head..." In response to Reply # 9
a whatty what?
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Headgasket blew cause it was the old defective one, but headbolts were fine. I agree you shouldn't reuse them though, for 26 bucks, just buy a new set. 
