Since my engine hydrolocked, I've decided to pull the engine out to have it ready for a rebuild. What I want to know though, is it possible to take the head off without taking the cams off? TIA!



Brian
West Melbourne, FL

1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS(White)
1965 Ford Falcon

Mods: AF/X UDP, NGK-BKR5E spark plugs, Custom CAI. Best et...16.31 @ 85.50 mph with custom ram air intake.

Yes, but the head bolts won't be able to be removed because the cams will still be in they way. But you have enough room to unthread the headbolts and still remove the heads. I know, I have done it.

Yeah, but wouldnt you then still have to take the cams off to be able to torque down the headbolts?

Just wondering
DJ

theres really no point to leaving them in. you will have to do timing again anyway, and considering the overall job, taking the cams out will be cake.

I pulled my cams out in like 10 mins. Really no big deal!!

Just pull the fucking cams. You should be using ARP Head studs anyways. Reusing stock headbolts is an idea best left to shitheads. You aren't a shithead, are you?

Originally posted by Ducking_Fumbass
You aren't a shithead, are you?

Wrong forum.

Originally posted by Ducking_Fumbass
Just pull the fucking cams. You should be using ARP Head studs anyways. Reusing stock headbolts is an idea best left to shitheads. You aren't a shithead, are you?

Hmm, I ran stock headbolts for ~4 years running 22psi+ on pumpgas and they weren't stretched at all. :shrug Headgasket blew cause it was the old defective one, but headbolts were fine. I agree you shouldn't reuse them though, for 26 bucks, just buy a new set.

Just pull the head out with the cams in and remove them once its out if you decide. And yes, you can torque the head down just fine with the cams in.

I don't trust a torque rating unless the socket is perfectly parallel to the bolt being torqued. Deflection can artificially increase torque reading (and make you under-torque your headbolts!) in the same way that a U-joint reduces the delivered torque as it is bent. Also, avoid excessively extending when torquing to spec... extensions will also take up some torque. What happens is that a few ft/lbs goes into twisting the extensions before the torque is transmitted. Wobble extensions are especially notorious for this.

None of this really matters, though, as there really isn't a specific torque value for stock headbolts, it is more "torque to this, then break your ratchet turning it another 90 degrees." Stupid idea, if you ask me. THAT is why I recommend ARPs. :thumbsup

I agree... hehe.. If the head bolts would have been stretched just the slightest when I removed the head I would have got ARP's studs kit, but I am a combination of cheap and stubborn :+

As for your justification on torque, excellent... That is why I use a torque analizer to dial in the settings when I have to use extensions.

a whatty what?