what can i do to my car to make it faster without a turbo or nitrous? b/c i have AEM intake and thats it so what should i put on my car and how much horsepower will it add?

Let me say this before someone jumps ups on you
The Search is your friend.

USMC Semper Fi

Depends on what your definition of "a lot faster" is. If its anything like mine, then there is nothing short of turbo or nitrous that will get you there. You can do lots of bolt ons, head work, cams, and the like, which will get you moving a bit faster, but if you really want to rock, you need forced induction, plain and simple..

13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)
My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

read my post in your other thread in the general section

much searchage (actually just a little) will answer every question you have...afterwards if there is anything not covered (highly doubtfull) then ask

-----------------------------------------
2011 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x

2007 Kawasaki Ninja 650R

1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-NX 75 shot, AEM CAI, P&P t/b and intake mani-SOLD

1964 Buick Electra 225-all original, all power options, 325hp, 445ft/lbs tq

I have the ultimate mod. Here's the writeup.

Get a torch.
Cut off door.
Cut off roof.
Cut off rear bumper.
Cut off front bumper and all bumber support.
Cut off rear hatch.
Cut off all glass.
See now you got a convertible and run 13s. All for free

-------jezreel
hrc stage 1, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, costum dp, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting

USED TO HAVE...Everything you wish you had, and then some...

You are somebody special Tim, you matter! - from the admins (but nobody likes you, because your username is just like that other guy's, and you whine a lot)

Weight Reduction
Intake
Throttle body
Header
Test Pipe
Larger Exhaust
Underdrive Pulley
Cams
Fuel/Ignition control

You should be somewhere in the 15's.

in the grand scheme of things, without increasing intake manifold pressure above atmospheric or adding oxidizer, your car will be slow. even with a 2.4 and ALL of the all motor upgrades one could possibly do, i doubt you could run down the 1320 in less than 14.0 seconds. this is with full weight, of course.

2016 WRX STi Limited (current)
2001 A4 1.8tqms (donated)
1991 GVR4 #1933 (sold)
old.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=218 (dismantled)

If all your concerned about is bragging rights at the track. It's either a lot of money for turbo, a lot of money for all motor, or a lot of money for nitrous and some internals. If you want your car to fell quicker and be more fun to drive, I'd suggest firmer struts, springs and an energy bushing kit to firm up the ride. Being able to go the fastest in a striaght line is one thing, to go quickly on the street in the curves is another.

Power costs money. You have the bug. I'd suggest a second job. :p

*Skrilla
"Honest officer, I thought you were trying to race me"
Talon: 1st 2.4L
'97 Prelude
'04 350Z

Originally posted by etx
Good luck man! Project 'STFU Brian your talon is dead meat' should be on it's feet soon!

Bah all you need is an ELECTRIC TURBO

.........................................................................................................................

Built. That's All...
.........................................................................................................................
www.monkeybuttpirate.com
.........................................................................................................................
2 Fingers of Scotch with a milk back... Stat!

i'll let ya know how that quad tb works this summer.. once i get that worked out gettin it to work with my turbo set u

Bah all you need is an ELECTRIC TURBO
-Chris b.



HAHAHAHAHA... I hope he doesn't take that seriously.


However, the Rocket does fit his requirments (Not turbo nor Nitrous)
Let's see that on the road, like that bike on Torque.
(which is an actual bike)... but terrible movie.

I hope he does take it serious. Perfect answer for the perfect question. If you're anywhere in CT I'll take you for a ride in a 15psi RS.

intricatelines.com/ -graphics and vinyls

"Tell them of us and say,
For their tomorrow,
We gave our today."
-- The Kohima Epitaph

I was talking about the Electric Turbo suggestion...

I feel bad for those people who buy them off ebay.
Well, not so bad when we realize how they should research first.

"what can i put on my car to make it a lot faster without a turbo or nitrous?"

Answer : NOTHING !!! You can add all you want and just be running 14's ? Come on people dont really consider that fast I hope

Buy a turbo man its the only was to go on a 2gnt imo.



ajna st4r: how much would that suck
ajna st4r: black... and like 5inches
ajna st4r: you got JIPPED



Member # 333

Well fastest NA guy is 15.4 on here but if you want to keep up w/ a turbo 2gnt you are going to have to raisethe compression. Some people have done cams, ECU and bolt-ons but never got any times or didn't get anything impressive. Basically by the time you put the $ into car to stay NA and keep up w/ a turbo car you will probably spend more $ then you would of if you had gotten a turbo kit. Honda's are much better all motor cars if you want to stay all motor.
-Dave

2009 Corolla S - waiting until 2012 for my next toy!
*SOLD* 1992 3000GT VR4 - pearl white and 45,6xx miles!
*SOLD* 2007 Subaru Legacy GT sedan
*SOLD* 95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 - BPU
*SOLD* 97 Eclipse GS Star Stage 2

Want your car to accelerate faster yet no tubro/nos??

yah rocket will work...other than that MASSIVE weight redux would work....find ways to drop to 1st gen Dodge neon weight and (they are hard and probably will be quite expensive) you will gain not only better acceleration, but you will gain braking and turning power

Im Thinking on ordering FAL rear molded windows

other than that this is a lightening guide for neons...similar results can be acheived for eclipses:

WARNING THIS IS FOR RACE ONLY..dont expect to be streatable with this

Everyday Weight Reduction:
15 lbs.-- Swap stock battery for garden tractor battery (stock=30lbs)
5 lbs.-- FMM weight
5 lbs.-- Underdrive Pulley
13 lbs.-- Replace stock DOHC muffler with Supertrapp (except winter, trips)
8 lbs.-- Carpet and sound deadener
2 lbs.-- Rear Floor Mats
6 lbs.-- Gray rub strips on the sides
5 lbs.-- Rear seat belts
2 lbs.-- Underhood insulation and plastic scoop
1 lb. -- EGR Valve and hardware
1 lb. -- Driving lights and trim piece between headlights (except winter, trips)
11 lb. -- Insulation/sound deadener under carpet and panels
1 lb. -- Black plastic trim under FMM
2.5 lbs. -- Sound Deadener in doors
4 lbs. -- Asphalt based sound deadener under rear seat
2 lbs. -- Cruise Control servo motor, cable, brackets
4.5 lbs.-- Rear 6x9 Speakers
1 lb. -- Dash tweeters
1.5 lb. -- Glove box door weight.
2 lbs.-- Steel plate w/foam below steering wheel
4.5 lbs. -- Remove one radiator fan (driver's side)
2 lbs. -- Sound deadener under console
1 lb. -- Metal plate/bracket under console bin
2 lbs. -- Steering Wheel weight
1.5 lbs. -- Replace passenger outside mirror with blank bezel

Autocross Weight Reduction:

25 lbs.-- Spare Tire
5 lbs.-- Cut off back 1/2 of exhaust, exits out side
5 lbs.-- Corbeau Forza drivers seat
34 lbs.-- Rear seat (bottom=9 lbs, back=25 lbs)
6 lbs.-- Jack and hardware
4 lbs.-- Spare tire cover
1 lb. -- Ash tray and bracket
3 lbs.-- Visors
4 lbs.-- Front Floor Mats
4 lbs.-- Stereo
35 lbs.-- Passenger Seat

Future Possible Weight Reduction:

10 lbs.-- Remove all or most asphalt based sound deadener on floor
6 lbs.-- Dash Cover
13 lbs.-- Door Panels
5 lbs. -- Console (deluxe with armrest)
40 lbs. -- Remove AC

-replace stock wheels with lighter ones
-replace stock hood with fiberglass or carbon fiber one
-replace stock fenders with fiberglass ones
-replace stock front seats with lightweight racing seats
-remove all luxuries(power windows, cruise control, etc)
-remove metal bumper supports and foam
-cut air path into rear bumper
-remove door panels and plastic interior panels
-remove headliner, sun visors, dome light and wiring
-remove rear view mirror
-remove door mirrors
-remove metal plate under steering column
-remove rear seatbelts and retractors
-replace front seatbelts and retractors with 5 point harnesses
-remove metal bracket holding rear retractors
-remove throttle linkage plastic cover
-remove trunk release cable and handle
-remove trunk lock assembly
-remove hood release and latch mechanism, replace with hood pins
-remove hood and trunk hinges, pin them on
-remove third brake light
-remove front turn signals
-remove plastic grill
-remove underhood weatherstripping
-remove trunk weatherstripping
-replace steering wheel with aftermarket one, remove airbag, clockspring, counterweight and wiring
-Grind metal inside steering column smooth with dremel
-remove passenger airbag, replace with cover from blown airbag
-remove airbag computer and mounting plate
-remove entire air conditioning system, including wiring, hoses, brackets, clips, pump, condensor, etc.
-remove entire heating system as well as front defroster
-replace rear defrost window with no rear defrost window
-replace power steering with manual steering
-replace stock radiator overflow bottle with smaller plastic bottle
-cut stock shifter to shorter height
-remove all excess fuses and relays
-remove all excess nuts, screws, bolts, washers, clips, and snaps
-remove windsheild wiper fluid holder
-remove wipers, motor, wiring, hood squirters and hoses
-remove plastic spring wraps(the things that keep springs from clanking)
-remove emblems, racing stripes, and hood badge
-replace stock brake rotors with slotted brake rotors
-drill holes in metal inside door panels and package tray(or cut them out altogether)
-drill holes in battery tray
-remove fuel tank and associate components, replace with fuel cell
-replace controls arms with lighter ones
-replace rear disk brakes with rear drums
-scrape undercoating from entire unibody, spray paint flat black to prevent rust
-engine lightening, inlcuding cam gears, valvetrain, pistons, rods, crank, flywheel, etc
-remove entire dash, and all wiring, etc. Replace with aluminum sheeting and autometer ultra lite gauges
-replace all bolts and nuts with lighter titanium or aluminum ones
-replace side and rear glass with Lexan.
-Remove shift boot
-Replace shiftknob with smaller one
-Remove center console and weight underneath
-Remove Trunk Vents
-Remove mudflaps
-Remove Evap Purge System
-Remove Tranny Counterbalance weight
-Remove Front Sway Bar
-Remove Fog Lights and wiring
-Port/Polish inside/outside of Intake manifold (DOHC)
-Remove heatshields

I dunno...but that last post...the bottom seat..weighin in at 9 lb's?????...Its made of foam..I dont recalll it weighing 9 lb's but thats just meh I guess..great info tho..

Steve-o
Top secret.

Originally posted by FlyinEsi
I guess I'll just have to live with a 500+ hp AWD 4-banger.

As you noted its a list for NEON weight redux.....same principle, diferent weight specs

Its for a neon so its probly a different seat

1997 Dodge Avenger I-4 5-Speed
DreamSpeed Cold Air Intake,AF/X Under Drive Pully, ES Motor Mount Inserts, MSD DIS2, MSD Coil Pack, MSD 8.5mm Wires,Aluminem Flywheel,Spec Stage1 Clutch,Crank Scraper, Quaife LSD,Airmass 4-1 Headers, Test Pipe, Bosal Catback,B&M Short SHifter(50%),Symbroski Shifter Kit, Grounding Kit, Solid Front Motor Mount

put stickers on that bad boy.. that will make it super fast.hehe
Michael
99gs HRC Stage 2000 8-Injector Setup
2004 Honda Accord V6 (240 hp)

hm Somehow I missed that...damn Almost good information from the steve....

Steve-o
Top secret.

Originally posted by FlyinEsi
I guess I'll just have to live with a 500+ hp AWD 4-banger.

I bet if you just pulled your engine and rigged it to a HUFFY (a mountain bike for those of you who don't know), it would be pretty damn fast.

Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=776885