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this is what i wrote after i did mine:
Here’s the 10 step skinny:
1. Raise and block car, take off passenger wheel, unbolt plastic cover that you look at with wheel off. BAM, there’s the stock pulley!
2. Loosen alternator, AC compressor(if you have it), and PS pump. Take off belts.
3. Jack engine up under oil pan, just slight pressure at this point.
make sure you put a piece of wood on the jack when jacking on the engine. If you jack directly on the oil pan it can bend up. Put the wood so it lifts on the edges of the oil pan.
4. Apply more or less pressure to motor as needed to undo and remove motor mount on pulley side only.
5. Lower motor about 1-2in. (enough that the top of stock pulley will clear frame, you'll see what i mean)
6. Remove stock pulley bolt,(at this point go buy same thread bolt but 1-2in. longer and 5 or so thick washers that fit bolt, washers to be used later) screw in 1in. of longer bolt into crank.
7. RENT A SMALL 4 TON GEAR PULLER from local auto store and pull off pulley.
***At this point if you don't know how to use a puller or can't figure it out, PAY someone to do this Mod for you!!!!***
8. Put on new AFX pulley and thread longer bolt with washers between head of bolt and pulley.
9. Use ratchet socket and bolt to "pull" new pulley on. Remove or add washers as needed to "pull" pulley on tighter. At some point you can put stock bolt back in to finish "pulling" on the rest of the way.
10. Add new belts, tighten all acc. MAKE SURE BELTS ARE HELLA TIGHT or SSQQQUUUEEEELLLLL!!!!!!! put everything else back on and KAKOW, new pulley!!!
No matter how you do it, it will be some hassle. The old pulley is a tight virgin whoe! You will need the puller!!!! You can try oven heating the new pulley to slide it on, but sometimes it works and sometimes it don’t. Plus you gota have good mittens to handle the heat! This way will take about 3 hours start to finish if you have all the right tools and you’re good to go!
to tighten your pulley, i just put everything back together including the front right tire and with the car on the ground in gear, hand brake on and wheel blocks I use a long socket extension( or several short once connected together) stick it through the front right wheel all the way to the crank bolt and tighten it with the torque wrench.
http://my97rs.homestead.com/mywebpage.html
I refuse to tip-toe through life gently, only to arrive at death safely!
97 RS
Custom CAI
AF/X UDP
Bored TB-55mm
GS-T exhaust
"Super Good" plug wires
Front & Rear upper strut bars
Rear lower Stablizer bar
Front RRE lower Tie bar
Eibach Sportline Springs
Tokico shocks
Powerslot Rotors
S/S braided brake lines
Axxis Metal master pads
17" Focal Type 161's w/ Z-rated rubber
Stock shifter shortened 1.25in
Energy Suspension Shifter bushings
Custom shift plate(no more shift boot)
Indiglos
Grillcraft 3-pc. grill
V-Tech Taillight covers
Coming soon: AFC, EGT, A/F meter install, Pacesetter ceramic coated headers, 2.5" full exhaust pipeing
USED TO HAVE...Everything you wish you had, and then some...
You are somebody special Tim, you matter! - from the admins (but nobody likes you, because your username is just like that other guy's, and you whine a lot)
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1997 RS
