LAST EDITED ON 30-Oct-01 AT 05:38 PM (PST)

How in the hell do you get the underdrive pulley off? I have a 5 ton puller and it doesnt even move. I can only turn it so far until it is to hard to turn anymore. I turned it so hard that I already broke 1 wrench. I was about to take the oil pan off and us a hammer. Is there a secret to this or am I doing something wrong?

im not sure how well it would help... but you could try a bigger puller.. ie 6 ton


-Jason



95 GS

short air ram - custom grill - removed front license plate - custom stereo system - 2 Kenwood 10's powered by Kenwood amp - Hiper Blue Headlights - F&R Upper Strut Bars - 2 fan mod

Wow, gease, I got mine off with a 3 ton.

Michelle


We will NOT forget!
September 11, 2001


96 Eclipse Base Model
Best 14.6@93 w/60 shot
95 Talon Tsi AWD A/T

This may sound crazy but...heat it up with a torch! That way the metal expands and you can try to use your puller on it again.


"Kaptain Mike"
theblueghost@hotmail.com
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/Kaptainkillgore/index.htm
AIM= "KaptainKillgore" or "KaptainMyke"
1997 RS

NO NO DONT heat it up or you can say goodbye to your camshaft seals, take the 5ton puller back and get a different kind, they make two styles of pullers one has all those large jaws and one is much smaller looking, you want the smaller looking one

I've done some on a Neon. The trick for getting those off is finding the tabs on the backside of the pulley and getting your puller in those grooves. If you already got a UDP on there and you want it OFF then, try the same method--try to get it from the inside instead of the outside of the pulley. Heat doesn't hurt any camshaft seals that I could think of. Just use a good lube and a little whacking with a small dead blow hammer to loosen up any grime and crap that grows on the crankshaft. Don't whack her too hard b/c you don't want to knock around the thrust bearing in there. Hope this helps.

WTF?!?!?! camshaft seals?!?!?!?! that's kinda far from the crank.

Chris Dishmon
chrisdishmon@hotmail.com or
chrisdishmon@yahoo.com (pretty original, huh?)

http://www.threebrain.com/weeeeee.html

1990 GSX (14.1 in the 1/4 mile, so far)
1997 RS (it just looks neat)
http://www.homestead.com/klipzracer/index.html

meant crankshaft seals

You need the pulley puller from the dealership.

LAST EDITED ON 01-Nov-01 AT 03:35 PM (PST)

If you have an AFX, then you should be using the type of puller that hooks into the 3 bolt-holes on the pulley. The puller has 3-4 slotted arms and comes with assorted bolts. You screw the 3 bolts into the holes in the pulley and then use air tools to tighten the main puller bolt. My AFX came off with no issues using the proper tools and a little WD-40.


Corbin
'95 ESI-T
HRC + FMIC

this is what i wrote after i did mine:
Here’s the 10 step skinny:
1. Raise and block car, take off passenger wheel, unbolt plastic cover that you look at with wheel off. BAM, there’s the stock pulley!
2. Loosen alternator, AC compressor(if you have it), and PS pump. Take off belts.
3. Jack engine up under oil pan, just slight pressure at this point.
make sure you put a piece of wood on the jack when jacking on the engine. If you jack directly on the oil pan it can bend up. Put the wood so it lifts on the edges of the oil pan.

4. Apply more or less pressure to motor as needed to undo and remove motor mount on pulley side only.
5. Lower motor about 1-2in. (enough that the top of stock pulley will clear frame, you'll see what i mean)
6. Remove stock pulley bolt,(at this point go buy same thread bolt but 1-2in. longer and 5 or so thick washers that fit bolt, washers to be used later) screw in 1in. of longer bolt into crank.
7. RENT A SMALL 4 TON GEAR PULLER from local auto store and pull off pulley.
***At this point if you don't know how to use a puller or can't figure it out, PAY someone to do this Mod for you!!!!***
8. Put on new AFX pulley and thread longer bolt with washers between head of bolt and pulley.
9. Use ratchet socket and bolt to "pull" new pulley on. Remove or add washers as needed to "pull" pulley on tighter. At some point you can put stock bolt back in to finish "pulling" on the rest of the way.
10. Add new belts, tighten all acc. MAKE SURE BELTS ARE HELLA TIGHT or SSQQQUUUEEEELLLLL!!!!!!! put everything else back on and KAKOW, new pulley!!!
No matter how you do it, it will be some hassle. The old pulley is a tight virgin whoe! You will need the puller!!!! You can try oven heating the new pulley to slide it on, but sometimes it works and sometimes it don’t. Plus you gota have good mittens to handle the heat! This way will take about 3 hours start to finish if you have all the right tools and you’re good to go!

to tighten your pulley, i just put everything back together including the front right tire and with the car on the ground in gear, hand brake on and wheel blocks I use a long socket extension( or several short once connected together) stick it through the front right wheel all the way to the crank bolt and tighten it with the torque wrench.


http://my97rs.homestead.com/mywebpage.html

I refuse to tip-toe through life gently, only to arrive at death safely!

97 RS
Custom CAI
AF/X UDP
Bored TB-55mm
GS-T exhaust
"Super Good" plug wires
Front & Rear upper strut bars
Rear lower Stablizer bar
Front RRE lower Tie bar
Eibach Sportline Springs
Tokico shocks
Powerslot Rotors
S/S braided brake lines
Axxis Metal master pads
17" Focal Type 161's w/ Z-rated rubber
Stock shifter shortened 1.25in
Energy Suspension Shifter bushings
Custom shift plate(no more shift boot)
Indiglos
Grillcraft 3-pc. grill
V-Tech Taillight covers
Coming soon: AFC, EGT, A/F meter install, Pacesetter ceramic coated headers, 2.5" full exhaust pipeing