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The cam magnets are the same on the 2.0 and the 2.4. The difference is in how the camshafts are indexed. Because the timing gear on the 2.4 crank is advanced 180 degrees in relation to a 2.0, cam magnet must also be advanced. However, since 2 crank rotations is 1 cam rotation, the crank timing gear is advanced 1/4 of a cycle. Therefore, the camshaft timing reference (the magnet, in this case) must also be advanced 1/4 of a cycle. This is only 90 degrees on the camshaft, though. Once this is moved, then your cam and crank sensors are now in synch. Your spark and injector timing, however, is still 1/4 cycle off. Switching the trigger wires (wires 1 and 3) for the coil pack will solve this. The injectors, however, are slightly more difficult, as there is nothing comperable to "waste spark" with the injectors. Injector 1 wiring must be moved to injector 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, and 4 to 1, in order to make the injector timing synch up with the intake valve opening and closing.
As for the accessory brackets, the only solution is to go custom. What I have in mind is a one piece bracket that the PT Cruiser tensioner bolts to. Why the PT tensioner? Because I have one, that's why. You may decide to go with one that will accept the 2GNT accessory belt tensioner. But this will be a one piece that bolts to the block using all of the mounting bolt holes that were intended for the accessories on a PT Cruiser. The bottom would have 4 nuts welded on for the AC Compressor, since that's how it mounts up on a 2GNT. There would be a perpendicular to bolt the tensioner to. Hard to explain, but if you have seen the PT Accessory tensioner, you would understand. There would also be two perpendicular plates to bolt to the sides of the power steering pump. Bolt holes and sliders will be identical to the 2GNT bracket, which allows for independent tensioning of the belt if only PS is used.
As for the motor mount, I plan on making a custom bracket to bolt to the engine, based on the 2.4L motor mount bracket. At the top, however, would be bolt holes to accept the stock 2GNT rubber mount, using the stock bolts (or something similar).
I am using the 2.4L valve cover, come hell or high water. I have so much RTV on the spark plug grommets, that no oil will get by. At least, that's how it works out in my head. That eliminates the clearance issues with the valve cover and the hood.
As for the oil pan... the 2.4L oil pan will not interfere with the crossmember. At least the stamped steel pan won't. The cast aluminum pan has some ribs and bolt holes that can be removed for crossmember clearance. That's what I did at first, planning on doing a custom pan at a later date. I eventually decided, however, to modify a 2.4L stamped steel pan (like ours!) to suit my needs, with oil control (baffling) and dimensional changes to accomidate a downpipe. I do not recommend extending your downpipe below the stock level of a 2.4L oil pan. It will simply sit too close to the ground.
I have heard that it may be possible to modify a 2GNT passenger side motor mount bracket to work, but I am not sure that I would try it, when I have a fabricator who does good work. 
Other issues include:
Oil dipstick for the 2.0 doesn't bolt up, 2.4L dipstick wants to sit between the #2 and #3 runners. Fine if there is an intake mani there, not fine with an exhaust mani. The 2.4L lower water pipe doesn't come anywhere near the outlet of the radiator, so the 2.0 must be used, which doesn't bolt to the block. I bolted it to a plate that I bolted to the block. The starter likes to get friendly with the bracket on the lower water pipe, which means that you need to trim the lower water pipe support bracket a little bit to make it work. 2.4L corner head bolts must be used, as the 2.0 corner head bolts are too short.
Other then that, it is a straightforward swap. 
-=B-= Dude, Boeing called. They want their wing back.
Dark0ne95: There is a butthole on that girl that his going to feel the wrath of 23 yeras of worldwide hate.
Me: Can I put that in my sig?
Dark0ne95: GO right fucking ahead.
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