Ok,I'm pretty sure I have a blown headgasket, so I think I'm just going to go ahead and do all the engine work while I'm in there. I would love to do the 2.4L swap, but I don't know much about it. To those who have done it, what custom parts did you need to get made? How much am I looking at spending for everything? Does anyone already make forged internals for them? Any other input that I missed is great too, and if anyone else has questions that I didnt ask, add them. Tia.

If you don't know much about - you can probably learn alot by doing a search. This particular topic has come up alot, and there is alot of good info in the archives. Unfortunately, I don't think anyone has put together a writeup yet. I hope someone does, at some point.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

i did a search and came up with only 6 topics, non of wich asweredmy question much.

Well lemme try and give you some context, so you can have better keywords to work with.

You need to use the 2.0 head/cams/valve cover - it's a lower end swap not a long block swap.

There is an issue with the oilpan/crossmember. You have to use the 2.4 oilpan cause the bottom of the bedplate is different. The problem is that the 2.4 oilpan is taller - so it'll hit the crossmember if you just plop the engine in.

The camshaft position sensor needs to be turned a certain amount - I think 90 degrees.

The coil may need to be rewired to fire properly.

The passenger side motor mount needs to be fabricated/modified.

There is an issue with accessory brackets.

There is an issue with the lower radiator hose.

The internals are different, cause of the longer stroke. I think you can use some from a PT cruiser or that new turbo neon - as well as others.

You need more fuel, cause you have more displacement.

Thats the stuff(that I remember) that's come up about it. People have done it here, and have posted the issues that they've had. Hopefully that'll get you goin. Also, supposedly there's quite a bit about the 2.4 motor at neons.org.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Is it me, or wasn't this on the "Things We've Already Seen Before" part, like a very very long long time ago, maybe like 1-2 years ago.. and I think it disappeared from there..

Can someone clarify this for me.. any of the mods?

~Tacoman

the oil pan if u use the stock one clears the cross meember but the downpipe cutout like a 2.0 isn't there,

u need to move the cam magnet 90*

rewire the outer plugs on the coilpack,

u NEED an UDP,

a pt cruisar alternator bracket works with some mods,


so far those and the hurdles mentioned above are the ones we have encountered so far...


i might be missing something but looks good so far,

the internals u can use are from the stratus, pt cruisar, gt cruisar or 2rt4 or get some TurboII rods from bob stockum at (bstockum.com) to mate with soem forged turbo or hi comp weisco pistons

Bill

another biggy is the fact that the passenger side motor mount will not work, other than that I think you guys got it all. But our stock oil pan will NOT bolt up to the 2.4 block, which metal jim stated, you will either have to modify the stock 2.4 oil pan or our cross member. I think we know which one would be easier.

I'm still hoping a conversion kit comes out for mounting brackets :-)

As far as cam magnet goes, any thought on possibly using the one from a 2.4L would it be different, I'm sure it's the same size and dimensions and maybe willl bolt oriented such a way to make it a direct swap. Isn't there also a need to do something to the crank angle pick up?



15.9 @ 86.7mph

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Cams, Hooker Header, ERT/Catco Cat, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

You have to modify the 2.4 pan (cut it down like the 2.0) it will fit the way it is but your down pipe (has to bee extended) will drag on the ground for shure. Some other probs are the motor hits the hood, the Pt bracket works for the alternator but not for P/S or A/C (we have yet to find a solution for this). That is all we have found so far, still have to figure out the wiring and get a new turbo setup. The NER kit mounts the turbo way too high and will cause even more clearance issues. We will hopefully have this up and running in a few weeks.

The cam magnets are the same on the 2.0 and the 2.4. The difference is in how the camshafts are indexed. Because the timing gear on the 2.4 crank is advanced 180 degrees in relation to a 2.0, cam magnet must also be advanced. However, since 2 crank rotations is 1 cam rotation, the crank timing gear is advanced 1/4 of a cycle. Therefore, the camshaft timing reference (the magnet, in this case) must also be advanced 1/4 of a cycle. This is only 90 degrees on the camshaft, though. Once this is moved, then your cam and crank sensors are now in synch. Your spark and injector timing, however, is still 1/4 cycle off. Switching the trigger wires (wires 1 and 3) for the coil pack will solve this. The injectors, however, are slightly more difficult, as there is nothing comperable to "waste spark" with the injectors. Injector 1 wiring must be moved to injector 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, and 4 to 1, in order to make the injector timing synch up with the intake valve opening and closing.
As for the accessory brackets, the only solution is to go custom. What I have in mind is a one piece bracket that the PT Cruiser tensioner bolts to. Why the PT tensioner? Because I have one, that's why. You may decide to go with one that will accept the 2GNT accessory belt tensioner. But this will be a one piece that bolts to the block using all of the mounting bolt holes that were intended for the accessories on a PT Cruiser. The bottom would have 4 nuts welded on for the AC Compressor, since that's how it mounts up on a 2GNT. There would be a perpendicular to bolt the tensioner to. Hard to explain, but if you have seen the PT Accessory tensioner, you would understand. There would also be two perpendicular plates to bolt to the sides of the power steering pump. Bolt holes and sliders will be identical to the 2GNT bracket, which allows for independent tensioning of the belt if only PS is used.
As for the motor mount, I plan on making a custom bracket to bolt to the engine, based on the 2.4L motor mount bracket. At the top, however, would be bolt holes to accept the stock 2GNT rubber mount, using the stock bolts (or something similar).
I am using the 2.4L valve cover, come hell or high water. I have so much RTV on the spark plug grommets, that no oil will get by. At least, that's how it works out in my head. That eliminates the clearance issues with the valve cover and the hood.
As for the oil pan... the 2.4L oil pan will not interfere with the crossmember. At least the stamped steel pan won't. The cast aluminum pan has some ribs and bolt holes that can be removed for crossmember clearance. That's what I did at first, planning on doing a custom pan at a later date. I eventually decided, however, to modify a 2.4L stamped steel pan (like ours!) to suit my needs, with oil control (baffling) and dimensional changes to accomidate a downpipe. I do not recommend extending your downpipe below the stock level of a 2.4L oil pan. It will simply sit too close to the ground.
I have heard that it may be possible to modify a 2GNT passenger side motor mount bracket to work, but I am not sure that I would try it, when I have a fabricator who does good work. :D
Other issues include:
Oil dipstick for the 2.0 doesn't bolt up, 2.4L dipstick wants to sit between the #2 and #3 runners. Fine if there is an intake mani there, not fine with an exhaust mani. The 2.4L lower water pipe doesn't come anywhere near the outlet of the radiator, so the 2.0 must be used, which doesn't bolt to the block. I bolted it to a plate that I bolted to the block. The starter likes to get friendly with the bracket on the lower water pipe, which means that you need to trim the lower water pipe support bracket a little bit to make it work. 2.4L corner head bolts must be used, as the 2.0 corner head bolts are too short.
Other then that, it is a straightforward swap. :rolleyes
-=B-=

bwahahah! straight forward!@#%! I would love to do this, but i am afraid my onions are not that large.. yet.

lol ^^

my block is being machined next week so i can start the proces of changing over to the 2.4 FINALY!