Welcome to the 2GNT Forum!
Home Site Background Info & Specs Mods & Tech Info CAPS Part Reviews Donate 2GNT Stickers
Search Printer-friendly copy 1 User in Chat
Top 2GNT Technical Performance/Engine topic #46857
View in linear mode

Subject: "Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?" Previous topic | Next topic
WickedESiMar-16-03 03:26 PM
Donating 2GNT member
3090 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#46857, "Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?"
Mar-16-03 03:50 PM by WickedESi



          

I just ordered an AF-X UDP and I was wondering if it is a good idea to replace the front main seal when I'm putting it on. Does the oil pan have to come off to change it? Also, what belts come w/ the AF-X so I can be ready to get this done.

TIA!!

Also... I just like to mention my 2G has 130k miles.


Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

Replies to this topic
RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?, TeamXtremeRS, Mar-16-03 04:42 PM, #1
RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?, WickedESi, Mar-16-03 06:12 PM, #2
      RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?, WickedESi, Mar-18-03 07:56 AM, #3
           RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?, Global Ruler Of All ThingsDarkOne, Mar-18-03 09:36 AM, #4
                RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?, nullforce, May-13-03 08:48 AM, #5
                     RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?, Kirby, May-13-03 10:25 AM, #6
                          RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?, TeamXtremeRS, May-13-03 11:49 AM, #7

TeamXtremeRSMar-16-03 04:42 PM
Member since May 20th 2003
6329 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#46862, "RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?"
In response to Reply # 0
Mar-16-03 04:43 PM by XtremeRS

          

At 130k, it wouldnt be a bad idea to change out the seal. In order to get at it, you will have to take off the timing belt, and then the timing belt crank gear that goes on behind the crank pulley. You then carefully pry out the oil seal from the oil pump cover, then replace. Put new seal flush with oil pump cover. You will have to reset the timing and t-belt tension.


13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)

My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

    
WickedESiMar-16-03 06:12 PM
Donating 2GNT member
3090 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#46870, "RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?"
In response to Reply # 1




          

Hey, thanks a lot! =]

Do you recommend Gatorback timing belts?


Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

        
WickedESiMar-18-03 07:56 AM
Donating 2GNT member
3090 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#46978, "RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?"
In response to Reply # 2




          

I went ahead and bought a Mopar timing belt.

How do you get the crankshaft (timing belt) sprocket off w/o the special tool it says in the Chilton's manual?


Joel Baldridge, ASE Certified Master Technician, Audi Certified Expert Technician

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

            
Global Ruler Of All ThingsDarkOneMar-18-03 09:36 AM
Donating 2GNT member
14955 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#46979, "RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?"
In response to Reply # 3




          

Harmonic balancer puller. I can never remember the bolt sizes though..

______________________________
If a sentence found online has 35% misspellings or greater and includes at least two racially charged expletives, chances are it is a YouTube comment.

'95 Eclipse TurboGS (garage deco)
'95 TSi AWD (restoring a survivor)
'97 Talon ESi-T (poor impulse control)
'99 Eclipse RS-T (daily beater)
'13 Evo X (mostly stock)
'17 Sienna (Middle Aged Dad Mobile)



Factory Service Manuals: http://nawdu.de/files/

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

                
nullforceMay-13-03 08:48 AM
Member since Mar 06th 2002
36 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#51096, "RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?"
In response to Reply # 4


          

M6-1.00 x >80mm

Is there a way to make the sprocket come off easier?

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

                    
KirbyMay-13-03 10:25 AM
Donating 2GNT member
2181 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#51101, "RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?"
In response to Reply # 5
May-13-03 10:28 AM by Kirby



          

The sproket uses the same thread pattern as your timing belt cover bolts. Getting it back on is another story, I used pipe and a sledge hammer. I have been told though that this was not the best way to do it, but I don't see how you could do it by drawing it on since it sits so far down on the crank.
Edit: here are matts words on how to get the sproket back on. "If you look at the crank, you should see a grove in it, that should be right infront of the sprocket. The actual sprocket will be almost to the point of touching the block, with a tiny gap in between. I know with my AFX pulley, it will push on the sprocket to the correct position when the AFX pulley is on all the way. IMO, its not a very good idea to pound that crank sprocket on there, as you can damage the thrust bearing in the block. You should always use a big socket or similiar to push on the crank sprocket(using a longer crank bolt and some washers, just like putting on the UDP."



I edited to the wiki!

Originally posted by DR1665
NOTE TO SELF: Go commando to wedding. Scar the Irishman for life.

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

                        
TeamXtremeRSMay-13-03 11:49 AM
Member since May 20th 2003
6329 posts,
Click to send email to this author Click to send private message to this author Click to view this author's profile Click to add this author to your buddy list
#51110, "RE: Replace Front Main Seal When Replacing UDP?"
In response to Reply # 6
May-13-03 11:55 AM by XtremeRS

          

Yeah getting that sprocket on took some enginuity. I used a big ass socket, one that fit the outside of the sprocket, and one that was large enough to go over the crank, and be SURE its deep enough so the socket wont bottom out on the end of the crank. You then will need a longer crank bolt. I used one that was about 1.5" longer than stock. Thread that in, using at least one, good size washer. I then slowly tightened the bolt to push on the gear. You can start out lightly tapping on the gear as far as it will go, to help you get enough bolt thread into the crank, so as not to strip out the crank threads. Once you start getting the gear on, switch over to the stock bolt, once you can get enough thread into the crank. Then just finish it up, lining up the outer edge of the gear, with that line on the crank. If the gear isnt on all the way, it will be once you put the UDP on fully. The gear will be very, very close to the block, when fully on. Like 1 mm or so of clearance. Be sure to remember to put the small crankshaft key in the keyway too.. I cant remember what socket i used,but i think i may have had to use the UDP to fully put on the sprocket, because the crank bolt i had wanst long enough, to fit a deepwell socket, and have enough thread to go into the crank. So i just used the Udp to fully push on the crank gear into place, but i started to put it on using that socket and longer bolt. It gets it to the "almost" fully on postion, maybe like 1/4" short of fully on. The UDP pushed it on when that was tightend. I believe i used a 1 1/4" deepwell socket. If you can find like a 2" longer than stock crank bolt, then that may work by itself, without haveing to use the UDP to put the gear on all the way.


13.5 @108 MPH-2.2 60ft(stupid FWD!)
S16G @ 18 PSI/FMIC/Running on MegaSquirt II (Now with sequential
fuel injection)

My webpage: http://eclipsed4evr.home.comcast.net
-1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS-T- "Toy"
-1992 Plymouth Laser Turbo AWD(SOLD)
-2000 Honda CR-V(daily)

  

Report This Post to Admin Printer-friendly copy | Reply | Reply with quote | Top

Top 2GNT Technical Performance/Engine topic #46857 Previous topic | Next topic
Powered by DCForum+ Version 2.2
Copyright 1997-2005 DCScripts.com, Copyright 2005-2026 2gnt.com
Generated in 0.063 seconds, executing 28 queries.