I just ordered an AF-X UDP and I was wondering if it is a good idea to replace the front main seal when I'm putting it on. Does the oil pan have to come off to change it? Also, what belts come w/ the AF-X so I can be ready to get this done.

TIA!!

Also... I just like to mention my 2G has 130k miles.

At 130k, it wouldnt be a bad idea to change out the seal. In order to get at it, you will have to take off the timing belt, and then the timing belt crank gear that goes on behind the crank pulley. You then carefully pry out the oil seal from the oil pump cover, then replace. Put new seal flush with oil pump cover. You will have to reset the timing and t-belt tension.

Hey, thanks a lot! =]

Do you recommend Gatorback timing belts?

I went ahead and bought a Mopar timing belt.

How do you get the crankshaft (timing belt) sprocket off w/o the special tool it says in the Chilton's manual?

Harmonic balancer puller. I can never remember the bolt sizes though..

M6-1.00 x >80mm

Is there a way to make the sprocket come off easier?

The sproket uses the same thread pattern as your timing belt cover bolts. Getting it back on is another story, I used pipe and a sledge hammer. I have been told though that this was not the best way to do it, but I don't see how you could do it by drawing it on since it sits so far down on the crank.
Edit: here are matts words on how to get the sproket back on. "If you look at the crank, you should see a grove in it, that should be right infront of the sprocket. The actual sprocket will be almost to the point of touching the block, with a tiny gap in between. I know with my AFX pulley, it will push on the sprocket to the correct position when the AFX pulley is on all the way. IMO, its not a very good idea to pound that crank sprocket on there, as you can damage the thrust bearing in the block. You should always use a big socket or similiar to push on the crank sprocket(using a longer crank bolt and some washers, just like putting on the UDP."

Yeah getting that sprocket on took some enginuity. I used a big ass socket, one that fit the outside of the sprocket, and one that was large enough to go over the crank, and be SURE its deep enough so the socket wont bottom out on the end of the crank. You then will need a longer crank bolt. I used one that was about 1.5" longer than stock. Thread that in, using at least one, good size washer. I then slowly tightened the bolt to push on the gear. You can start out lightly tapping on the gear as far as it will go, to help you get enough bolt thread into the crank, so as not to strip out the crank threads. Once you start getting the gear on, switch over to the stock bolt, once you can get enough thread into the crank. Then just finish it up, lining up the outer edge of the gear, with that line on the crank. If the gear isnt on all the way, it will be once you put the UDP on fully. The gear will be very, very close to the block, when fully on. Like 1 mm or so of clearance. Be sure to remember to put the small crankshaft key in the keyway too.. I cant remember what socket i used,but i think i may have had to use the UDP to fully put on the sprocket, because the crank bolt i had wanst long enough, to fit a deepwell socket, and have enough thread to go into the crank. So i just used the Udp to fully push on the crank gear into place, but i started to put it on using that socket and longer bolt. It gets it to the "almost" fully on postion, maybe like 1/4" short of fully on. The UDP pushed it on when that was tightend. I believe i used a 1 1/4" deepwell socket. If you can find like a 2" longer than stock crank bolt, then that may work by itself, without haveing to use the UDP to put the gear on all the way.