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>but I do have some energy suspension motor mounts, >afx udp, a new o2 sensor, header wrap. I'm also going to get >a test pipe before hand.
I don't recommend header wrap, it can trap moisture and promote rusting.
>So I will just be replacing the gaskets, timing belt, water >pump, thermostat, painting the valve cover (I'm going to try >that Duplicolor Can Spray paint that suppose to look like >anodized) and putting the above parts on.
Make sure whatever paint you buy is a high temp paint or it will boil and chip off.
>What's the deal with the rear driver side corner head bolt? >Where is it neccessary for me to use loctite?
Don't use locktite on head bolts. It can interfier with proper torqueing of the bolts. Some shave the bolt down to ensure thee are no problems... the new gasket and spray etc are suppose to cure it. I'm going to use an extra wiasher with a milled head instead.
>Also, is a leveler accurate enough to check head warpage >within tolerances?
If anything you need a straight edge, make sure it's VERY straight. Then you'l put the straight edge against the head and see it there are gapsd at any point between teh straight edge and the head, if so it's warped. If not it may still be slightly warped, just not detectable by naked eye.

15.9 @ 86.7mph 97 Eclipse RS
Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC
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