Hey guys,

*off topic*
I just had to replace my whole clutch hydraulics yesterday, the boot on my master clutch cylinder was leaking fluid into the car and there was an extreme leak in the lining into the slave cylinder at the banjo bolt where the thing got actually crushed from Professional Transmission (worse place ever, search for my story on how wrong they did my car) when they over torqued it. Only to discover a new problem...
*off topic*

My car has been leaking oil (some drips every few days, very minor) I was thinking it was a leak at the oil pressure sensor (or maybe it's the oil temp. sensor, not sure which it was) but then I noticed my coolant level dropping abnormally. Oil Leak + Coolant Leak = Destroyed Head Gasket. Today when I was at a stop light, by myself, I saw light black smoke (oil burning) come by my window, urgh.

So I need to replace my head gasket, are the Chilton's instructions good? Anywhere else I need to read up on info before I jump to it? Should I get a metal head gasket? If not (I hear of leakage problems), what kind for a Street/Drag setup? I have 130k miles on my car, and had the last timing belt change at 70k miles (my dad changed it, it was before I was 16), so I'll be changing that when the head is getting put back together. What would you recommend the best info for that? Chilton's again? I was wondering how I get all those pulley bolts loose. Do I need to get a good sized breaker bar?

I'm going to go ahead and put a UDP on since I have it planed to anyway, I'll rent a puller from AutoZone. What else should I replace when I have it broken down?

Sorry for all the questions, I appreciate any help you can give to me, thanks!

click on the link in my sig, it has the 420a overhaul section of the factory service manual and a bunch of other sections.

Do you really need the special tools to do things like insert a camshaft seal? They sound expensive.

Why is there so many differen't kinds of loctite needed? Is this necessary? Where can it be bought?

dont forget about that rear driver side corner head bolt, needs to be replaced or shaved....

Im also replacing my head gasket soon, if you have the cash, you may want to get your valves done while you're at it. Another thing, how much do you shave the head bolt?



95 Eclipse GS -
APEX'i N1
AEM Short RAM Intake
Streetfighter Full Body Kit

No special tools needed for cam seal installation...

If you have the cash not would be a good time to upgrade the valvetrain.

Make sure to check valve stem seals etc, and get a full set of gaskets.

Also have the head checked out for warping on the bottom, you don't want to replace it just to find out it was warped and won't seal with the new gasket.

What you can do while the head is iff depends on the money.



15.9 @ 86.7mph
97 Eclipse RS

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

I'm probably not going to have the cash to do any valvetrain upgrades, I just ordered some 17" Rims (Tenzo Passion-5's Saturday), but I do have some energy suspension motor mounts, afx udp, a new o2 sensor, header wrap. I'm also going to get a test pipe before hand.

So I will just be replacing the gaskets, timing belt, water pump, thermostat, painting the valve cover (I'm going to try that Duplicolor Can Spray paint that suppose to look like anodized) and putting the above parts on.

What's the deal with the rear driver side corner head bolt?
Where is it neccessary for me to use loctite?

Also, is a leveler accurate enough to check head warpage within tolerances?

>but I do have some energy suspension motor mounts,
>afx udp, a new o2 sensor, header wrap. I'm also going to get
>a test pipe before hand.

I don't recommend header wrap, it can trap moisture and promote rusting.

>So I will just be replacing the gaskets, timing belt, water
>pump, thermostat, painting the valve cover (I'm going to try
>that Duplicolor Can Spray paint that suppose to look like
>anodized) and putting the above parts on.

Make sure whatever paint you buy is a high temp paint or it will boil and chip off.

>What's the deal with the rear driver side corner head bolt?
>Where is it neccessary for me to use loctite?

Don't use locktite on head bolts. It can interfier with proper torqueing of the bolts. Some shave the bolt down to ensure thee are no problems... the new gasket and spray etc are suppose to cure it. I'm going to use an extra wiasher with a milled head instead.

>Also, is a leveler accurate enough to check head warpage
>within tolerances?

If anything you need a straight edge, make sure it's VERY straight. Then you'l put the straight edge against the head and see it there are gapsd at any point between teh straight edge and the head, if so it's warped. If not it may still be slightly warped, just not detectable by naked eye.



15.9 @ 86.7mph
97 Eclipse RS

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

>I don't recommend header wrap, it can trap moisture and
>promote rusting.

It's the stock header/exhaust manifold, the header wrap should keep the exhaust hot and the engine bay cool, good approach right?

>Don't use locktite on head bolts. It can interfier with proper
>torqueing of the bolts. Some shave the bolt down to ensure
>thee are no problems... the new gasket and spray etc are
>suppose to cure it. I'm going to use an extra wiasher with a
>milled head instead.

What spray are you talking about? Should I use a dremel to shave the bolts down? We are talking about all the head bolts right?

>It's the stock header/exhaust manifold, the header wrap should
>keep the exhaust hot and the engine bay cool, good approach
>right?

The stock exhaust manifold already is a rust bucket so yeah it's fine.

>What spray are you talking about? Should I use a dremel to
>shave the bolts down? We are talking about all the head bolts
>right?

Using a dremel gets tricky, you want to make surethe thread will stil start smoothly. Spray = the copper gasket spray you are suppose to use on the gasket to fill in an very minor imprefections between head and gasket.



15.9 @ 86.7mph
97 Eclipse RS

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

Are you referring to Permatex from this sealant thread?
http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=46381&mesg_id=46381&page=

isn't it just one head bolt that needs shaving? if I remember right its the number 7 bolt, anyone?

#7 is the driver side rear corner (short) bolt

What method should be used to shave the bolt?

It is mentioned in one of the posts there. It's a spray can of copper basket gasket sealer. Made by Permatex, call Copper Gasket Spray if memory serves. But that is a good thread for sealer parts and identification... probably going to have to go to Things We've seen Before.



15.9 @ 86.7mph
97 Eclipse RS

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake, Crower Stage 2 Cams, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, Crane Ign Amp, S-AFC

and make sure u buy new headbolts....My idiot friend just tossed his second head gasket because he didnt know he had to get all new headbolts....and torque them down in the right sequence at the right torque levels.