so I wanted to get some advice. I've searched the net for threadlocker that WON'T fail or that is rated to withstand temps that are around that of a turbo hotside, turbo mani or cylinder head threads. Loctite and permatex, from what i've been able to find, only have products that can withstand 450-500 degrees. I need something around 900+ (or whatever wont fail with turbo related heat ranges).

I've seen just ONE, but it looks like the label was made by a 12 year old and I don't wanna spend money on what i don't know works: http://www.034motorsport.com/fluids-chemicals-extreme-temp-thread-locker-turbo-rated-p-609.html

these are the other two that just won't do:

1. Permatex (available at most auto part stores): http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PERMATEX-Threadlocker-3DPK6?cm_mmc=Google%20Base-_-Adhesives,%20Sealants%20and%20Tape-_-Thread%20and%20Gasket%20Sealants-_-3DPK6

2. Loctite (same): http://www.restockit.com/0-5ml-threadlocker-262-permanent-(442-26205).html?source=froogle&Bvar5=100F1&Bvar6=100F1&Bvar7=100F1&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=comparisonshopping

^^^sorry for the broken link^^^

My goal: A permenant solution for head, mani, and downpipe bolts from vibrating loose...

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

No personal experience with that 034Motorsports high temp thread locker, but from what I have heard, they are a good company and make quality products.

1999 Eclipse GS
Built motor
Hahn 16G Turbo w/ FMIC
Hahn Stage 5 Portfueler (270's & 500's)
Zeitronix Zt-2 wideband w/ 3.5bar MAP
3" SS Turbo Back
CM Stage 4 Clutch and Fidanza Flywheel
Baer Big Brake Kit

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

The solution to your problem is not liquid thread locker. You need to use lock washers or all turbo system fasteners and torque them down real good.

Agreed. Ustilize mechanical means to keep the fasteners secured. Mcmaster has an assortment.

---

2012 2500HD LML

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

Ironically, I use anti-seize with my turbo bolts, lol. I also use the correct grade bolts (I got no idea what grade for exhaust - I'm sure smarty pants Dave would know ) with washers.

Whether I need the anti-seize or not has been debated (some say it burns off etc.), but what I do know, through all the theory, is that it works. 'Nuff said for me.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

what anti-seize do u use mark

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

I have also always used antisieze in conjunction with lock washers.

No need to order some regular old lock washers online from Mcmaster... just run down to your local auto parts store and buy them. If they don't have them listed for metric then get the standard equivalent size.

I also use anti-seize on all turbo system fasteners, ALWAYS. You can also get this shit at the parts store. I like the nickel stuff myself, but any type you get will work just fine. The copper will conduct electricity, for battery terminals and so forth. You can even pick up a small packet for spark plugs at the checkout lane for about a buck.

Anti-seize does not just burn off, that's ridiculous. Haha! Hell, the nickel shit that I'm using is rated to 2600 degrees! Now, the grease that makes up the base will smoke at first for a few minutes and eventually burn away... but the graphite, aluminum and nickel will remain on the threads and serve it's purpose.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

thanks for the insight doug. will do all that was discussed in here. good info. thanks everyone

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

You can always safety wire them.