I have the block from the car that I bought with a bad engine, Im trying to get the balencer to come off. I got the bolt out. I bought a kit from Autozone. It still will not come off. The kit they sold me has a bunch of bolts but nowhere on the balencer are holes? any ideas?

There is a hole right in the middle. You said you took the crankshaft bolt out, that is the hole you use...

Did you get the right puller? You have to use the Chrysler one.

I got one that they said work. but Im gonna go tomorrow and get the 3 jaw gear puller and see if that works

You can use a three jaw but its a pain in the ASSSSS. You gota figure out a way too get something in the crank pulley bolt hole for the jawed puller's bolt to sit on so you can crank the pulley off. I've done it several times but i sugest you follow the ideal method of getting the special crystler tool.

95 RS sold...

Get the right tool and it's super easy. They should have it. It is called a Chrysler harmonic damper puller, and it looks like this:

Don't bother with the 3-jaw puller. It may work, but it may also destroy your pulley. Just use the special puller; you can rent it from most retail parts stores.

http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=287

95 Avenger 2.0 - Hahn 16g, DMS 8 injector setup, UDP, Big FMIC, HKS SSQV, MSD Coil & Wires,
ZEX Nitrous System, QTP Cut Out, Mandrel 2.5" Exhaust with cat delete, MP 60mm TB...and tons of Carbon Fiber

alright thanks for the help.... Ill call around tomorrow and see if the tool is available to rent if not ill have to buy one. thanks

thanks for all the help the autozone that i bought the wrong one from has one in stock.

an impact wrench and 30 secs, and it's off. Easiest thing on the car to do. Air compressor is your best friend on this one.

FYI, if all the teeth are on the pulley at the same time and even torque is applied to each, this puller WILL work. The stories that people tell are from dumbasses who don't know how to use tools.

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

hahaha well I went out and bought the tool so I will see how it works when i get off work tonight

95 Avenger 2.0 - Hahn 16g, DMS 8 injector setup, UDP, Big FMIC, HKS SSQV, MSD Coil & Wires,
ZEX Nitrous System, QTP Cut Out, Mandrel 2.5" Exhaust with cat delete, MP 60mm TB...and tons of Carbon Fiber

I used a regular 3 jaw puller from autozone and it slid right off. Takes some time but as long as you have all three teeth on it evenly it should come off with no problem although a little PB blaster doesn't hurt.

you can go to any oreilly auto parts and get the chrysler style harmonic balance removal tool and you will need a pushrod from a chevy style engine to use because they don't give you a long enough rod to use in the center to pull the balancer off and it will work perfect!

95 Avenger 2.0 - Hahn 16g, DMS 8 injector setup, UDP, Big FMIC, HKS SSQV, MSD Coil & Wires,
ZEX Nitrous System, QTP Cut Out, Mandrel 2.5" Exhaust with cat delete, MP 60mm TB...and tons of Carbon Fiber

well I bought the tool, the pulley started to come off, then the piece of Sh*t rod broke. So I took it back, Im done messing with that block it sat for to damn long. Everything is all rusted up. I got the bolt out with out a problem. but the balancer just doesnt wanna come all the way off.

95 Avenger 2.0 - Hahn 16g, DMS 8 injector setup, UDP, Big FMIC, HKS SSQV, MSD Coil & Wires,
ZEX Nitrous System, QTP Cut Out, Mandrel 2.5" Exhaust with cat delete, MP 60mm TB...and tons of Carbon Fiber

I rented that same puller from O'Reillys but the damn pulley will not come off. I had to get a different bolt to put in the crank so the rods were long enough but it still won't come off. I was just wondering if there were any tricks to get this thing off? Thanks

when i was doing this my bolt messed up my threads and i had to rethread it. the ac pully was a pita

good god this has been discussed a fucking million times. If you don't have a push rod or an impact wrench w/ some PB blaster, you'll be on it all day.

GET THOSE ITEMS. DONT BE SO HARD HEADED

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

Chrysler harmonic damper puller tool. Autozone. $30.

Pull the crank bolt out, drop a longer extension for your ratchet down the hole.

Alternately, consider heating up the center of the pulley with a torch.

For the record, everyone...

Chrysler. Balancer.

Our crank pulleys use an interferance fit to attach themselves firmly to the crank. You MUST heat it with a torch of some kind evenly around the bolt hole before trying to get it off. MUST MUST MUST. You can seriously damage the threads inside the crank if you don't do this. Also, you must do to same when putting it back on. If you don't, it may not line up properly and you will find yourself shreading belts.

HEAT it ON and OFF.

Built block.
Refinished head.
Tuned suspension.
TURBO.

There is really no need for a torch or PB blaster. If you are using the correct tool, the Chrysler Harmonic Damper puller, it should come right off. Using the correct tool makes it super easy. I wouldn't even consider using anything else.

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

+1eleventy for using the right tools every time.



Bullett, here use this one

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"Don't fear the weapon, fear the soul of the warrior using it."
"My CEL only goes off when i remove my battery."

Best sum up of working on a 2GNT
DR1665- "#5. Spike that motherfucker on the garage floor and grab a beer. You deserve it."


Ahhhh Priceless . . .
eclipse982nrRST "its actually lightish red"
RoninEclipse2G "yeah, they already have a color for that... it's called PINK"

Originally posted by foggy45
Bullett, here use this one

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

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2012 2500HD LML

By cramming the bolt through the center of the crank. It is not unusual to use heat to get this pulley off. It was designed this way. Feel free to keep cranking away with a pulley puller, I use heat and it practically slides right off. No puller necessary.
I am a little struck that no one on this forum has mentioned that at this point. I thought it was basics on a 2gnt...
You will also notice that there is no woodruff key, or anyother key to keep the pulley from spinning on the crank. That is because the interference fit of the pulley provides the force necessary to keep the pully from just spinning on the crank.

Built block.
Refinished head.
Tuned suspension.
TURBO.

Using the correct Chrysler puller, the three jaws grip the pulley while the push rod bottoms out inside the crank. Using the correct tool, the internal threads on the crank are not even used. That is why I am asking how you would damage them.

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2012 2500HD LML

I agree that would not damage them. Not everyone has that tool though. I didn't look to see who it was exactly mocking my suggestion, but I didn't appreciate the ridicule for suggesting heating the pulley. If the guy is using a puller with that much difficulty, he needs to heat the pulley. Enough said. I would expect people on this forum to be more open to multiple methods rather than critisize advice that doesn't exactly coincide with their own. There is always more than one way of doing something. It is definitely my advice to always heat the pulley on and off, or it may not seat properly going on or be difficult to get off. If someone doesn't want to do that I don't care. Just please do not bash my advice for offering up a suggestion when one thing was clearly not working for the guy.

Built block.
Refinished head.
Tuned suspension.
TURBO.

If you are all knowing and think that this is 2gnt basics and are wondering why we don't heat it and do it as you do, then why does it state in the FSM, haynes and chiltons to use this puller and mention NOTHING about heat whatsoever? whatever. Torch away bud

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http://www.2gnt.com/quote_db.php?id=278

Outside of Corona: "That sucks, peace out..." (jamie walks away)... "Sweeet, what we doin?" -Zac
Tim's garage (prior to motor install): "Im gonna smoke real quick, that way if you fuck up I am already nicotined up" -Tim

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm

I just had to pull mine off yesterday. I've done it with the small 3-jaw before, modified with a steel rod and a small socket on the end of the puller bolt. Rented the Chrysler one for this round though, came off in like 20 seconds, piece of cake.

/>

'95 GS w/ t3/t4b
FMIC, diy piping & RFL BOV
MS2-Extra Fuel&Spark
50 lb/hr Holley injectors w/ 1:1 RRFPR
JE 8.8:1 dish w/ Hastings Rings
Eagle Rods w/ ARP bolts
ARP Head studs
Mild port/polish head
3" custom DP/cat section, 3" PIT catback
dual MBC - 12 psi / 20psi

Heating the crank pulley is a very bad idea. The factory Crank pulley is a harmonic ballencer and is actually two pieces held together by a composite rubber ring. Heating the pulley 100's of degrees hotter than operating temperature will result is damage to that ring. You may not see it but its there. Eventually that ring can fair and send the outer portion of the pulley in any direction including up.

There is a reason your not supposed to heat the pulley, its not becuase the chiltons is dumb and your smart.

what year models came with the balancer? I have a new pulley, but never recall having any type of balancer. Perhaps this is wherein our differences lie.
Do all the 2gnt's have balancer's from the factory?

Built block.
Refinished head.
Tuned suspension.
TURBO.

Could not find a 2.0 pulley lying around but here is a 2.4. Same design.

I cannot speak for Terry, but I think he meant crank pulley as opposed to harmonic balancer.

The rubber ring referred to:

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2012 2500HD LML

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2012 2500HD LML

Captain Caveman

96 RS Turbo 11.414 @ 119.62 MSNS, Crower 2 NA cams, BW366, 10.5 comp, UDP, 60mm TB, W/A intercooler, 3.55 tranny 567.9whp 430tq
97 RS NA 13.188 @ 103.87 MSnS powered 12.5 comp, Crower 3's and 219.4whp with 175tq
98 RS DD 12.5 comp on stock ECU, LTH, Crower 2's, Koni, GC, Hypercoil, DG hats
99 OZ 5sp Stocker 15.856 @ 85.97
99 GS stocker auto 17.7@77mph!

wiki home page:http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=bullettdsm