I have the block from the car that I bought with a bad engine, Im trying to get the balencer to come off. I got the bolt out. I bought a kit from Autozone. It still will not come off. The kit they sold me has a bunch of bolts but nowhere on the balencer are holes? any ideas?

There is a hole right in the middle. You said you took the crankshaft bolt out, that is the hole you use...

Did you get the right puller? You have to use the Chrysler one.

I got one that they said work. but Im gonna go tomorrow and get the 3 jaw gear puller and see if that works

You can use a three jaw but its a pain in the ASSSSS. You gota figure out a way too get something in the crank pulley bolt hole for the jawed puller's bolt to sit on so you can crank the pulley off. I've done it several times but i sugest you follow the ideal method of getting the special crystler tool.

Get the right tool and it's super easy. They should have it. It is called a Chrysler harmonic damper puller, and it looks like this:

Don't bother with the 3-jaw puller. It may work, but it may also destroy your pulley. Just use the special puller; you can rent it from most retail parts stores.

Originally posted by Locke_db
Don't bother with the 3-jaw puller. It may work, but it may also destroy your pulley. Just use the special puller; you can rent it from most retail parts stores.

I couldnt' find this at any local store near me. The first time, I had to talk one of my local dealership guys into loaning me the tool over night--which I'm still amazed he let me do. The next time I needed it, I just ordered one from Matco, at around $125 it ain't cheap, but it works like a charm and has helped me and my fellow 420a friends numerous times....

I could never get that 3 Jaw "generic" puller to work right, although many of my friends suggest threading in the crank bolt one or two full turns and trying it that way as it should give you enough leverage to get it started--other wise you have to get a longer bolt and let it bottom out on the crank to get enough leverage to force the pulley off using the generic puller.

alright thanks for the help.... Ill call around tomorrow and see if the tool is available to rent if not ill have to buy one. thanks

thanks for all the help the autozone that i bought the wrong one from has one in stock.

an impact wrench and 30 secs, and it's off. Easiest thing on the car to do. Air compressor is your best friend on this one.

FYI, if all the teeth are on the pulley at the same time and even torque is applied to each, this puller WILL work. The stories that people tell are from dumbasses who don't know how to use tools.

hahaha well I went out and bought the tool so I will see how it works when i get off work tonight

Originally posted by 420agreenvilleSC FYI, if all the teeth are on the pulley at the same time and even torque is applied to each, this puller WILL work. The stories that people tell are from dumbasses who don't know how to use tools.

As long as you have something (such as the crank bolt) in place for the puller to push against. Most people do not get the generic puller to work because the threaded center rod just presses against the center of the pulley...and they forget that they have to have something in the hole pressing against the crank in order to "pull" the pulley off.

Its not just knowing how to use the tools, but improvising in these situations and making the tools you have, work.

Originally posted by 420agreenvilleSC
an impact wrench and 30 secs, and it's off. Easiest thing on the car to do. Air compressor is your best friend on this one. FYI, if all the teeth are on the pulley at the same time and even torque is applied to each, this puller WILL work. The stories that people tell are from dumbasses who don't know how to use tools.

thats what i use the only prob is that the bolt is not long enough on mine so i just use an old honda head bolt in the hole and pry off that it just takes ingenuity...

I used a regular 3 jaw puller from autozone and it slid right off. Takes some time but as long as you have all three teeth on it evenly it should come off with no problem although a little PB blaster doesn't hurt.

you can go to any oreilly auto parts and get the chrysler style harmonic balance removal tool and you will need a pushrod from a chevy style engine to use because they don't give you a long enough rod to use in the center to pull the balancer off and it will work perfect!

Originally posted by conner_d_78
you can go to any oreilly auto parts and get the chrysler style harmonic balance removal tool...

Except the one in my town......lol

well I bought the tool, the pulley started to come off, then the piece of Sh*t rod broke. So I took it back, Im done messing with that block it sat for to damn long. Everything is all rusted up. I got the bolt out with out a problem. but the balancer just doesnt wanna come all the way off.

Originally posted by 96mitseclipsers
well I bought the tool, the pulley started to come off, then the piece of Sh*t rod broke. So I took it back, Im done messing with that block it sat for to damn long. Everything is all rusted up. I got the bolt out with out a problem. but the balancer just doesnt wanna come all the way off.

WOW...broke the rod. Usually once the pulley starts to come off, you should have no futher issues--it should just come off by continueing to turn the threaded center section.

I'm surprised you didn't get a replacement tool and give it another go, but I can understand your frustrations.

Sorry to hear about the troubles...

I rented that same puller from O'Reillys but the damn pulley will not come off. I had to get a different bolt to put in the crank so the rods were long enough but it still won't come off. I was just wondering if there were any tricks to get this thing off? Thanks

when i was doing this my bolt messed up my threads and i had to rethread it. the ac pully was a pita

Originally posted by scorpo86
when i was doing this my bolt messed up my threads and i had to rethread it. the ac pully was a pita

Spray it with PB blaster let set in for a few and take a breaker bar to it.

good god this has been discussed a fucking million times. If you don't have a push rod or an impact wrench w/ some PB blaster, you'll be on it all day.

GET THOSE ITEMS. DONT BE SO HARD HEADED

Chrysler harmonic damper puller tool. Autozone. $30.

Pull the crank bolt out, drop a longer extension for your ratchet down the hole.

Alternately, consider heating up the center of the pulley with a torch.

For the record, everyone...

Chrysler. Balancer.

Our crank pulleys use an interferance fit to attach themselves firmly to the crank. You MUST heat it with a torch of some kind evenly around the bolt hole before trying to get it off. MUST MUST MUST. You can seriously damage the threads inside the crank if you don't do this. Also, you must do to same when putting it back on. If you don't, it may not line up properly and you will find yourself shreading belts.

HEAT it ON and OFF.

There is really no need for a torch or PB blaster. If you are using the correct tool, the Chrysler Harmonic Damper puller, it should come right off. Using the correct tool makes it super easy. I wouldn't even consider using anything else.

Originally posted by adamzty
There is really no need for a torch or PB blaster. If you are using the correct tool, the Chrysler Harmonic Damper puller, it should come right off. Using the correct tool makes it super easy. I wouldn't even consider using anything else.

I NEVER NEVER NEVER used heat to get a pulley off (or PB Blaster for that matter).

Right tool, for the right job.

(Damn, couldn't find the beat a dead horse icon)

+1eleventy for using the right tools every time.



Bullett, here use this one

Originally posted by foggy45
Bullett, here use this one

Lol, thanks Foggy

I knew somebody would come to my rescue on that one :cheers

Originally posted by bzoss
You MUST heat it with a torch of some kind evenly around the bolt hole before trying to get it off. MUST MUST MUST. You can seriously damage the threads inside the crank if you don't do this.

Please let me know how you would damage the threads in the crank while attempting to remove the stock crank pulley.

By cramming the bolt through the center of the crank. It is not unusual to use heat to get this pulley off. It was designed this way. Feel free to keep cranking away with a pulley puller, I use heat and it practically slides right off. No puller necessary.
I am a little struck that no one on this forum has mentioned that at this point. I thought it was basics on a 2gnt...
You will also notice that there is no woodruff key, or anyother key to keep the pulley from spinning on the crank. That is because the interference fit of the pulley provides the force necessary to keep the pully from just spinning on the crank.

Using the correct Chrysler puller, the three jaws grip the pulley while the push rod bottoms out inside the crank. Using the correct tool, the internal threads on the crank are not even used. That is why I am asking how you would damage them.

I agree that would not damage them. Not everyone has that tool though. I didn't look to see who it was exactly mocking my suggestion, but I didn't appreciate the ridicule for suggesting heating the pulley. If the guy is using a puller with that much difficulty, he needs to heat the pulley. Enough said. I would expect people on this forum to be more open to multiple methods rather than critisize advice that doesn't exactly coincide with their own. There is always more than one way of doing something. It is definitely my advice to always heat the pulley on and off, or it may not seat properly going on or be difficult to get off. If someone doesn't want to do that I don't care. Just please do not bash my advice for offering up a suggestion when one thing was clearly not working for the guy.

Originally posted by bzoss
I agree that would not damage them. Not everyone has that tool though. I didn't look to see who it was exactly mocking my suggestion, but I didn't appreciate the ridicule for suggesting heating the pulley. If the guy is using a puller with that much difficulty, he needs to heat the pulley. Enough said. I would expect people on this forum to be more open to multiple methods rather than critisize advice that doesn't exactly coincide with their own. There is always more than one way of doing something. It is definitely my advice to always heat the pulley on and off, or it may not seat properly going on or be difficult to get off. If someone doesn't want to do that I don't care. Just please do not bash my advice for offering up a suggestion when one thing was clearly not working for the guy.

We're not saying it's a bad idea to heat the pulley. We are just saying heat is not needed if you are using the correct tool like you should be.

If you are all knowing and think that this is 2gnt basics and are wondering why we don't heat it and do it as you do, then why does it state in the FSM, haynes and chiltons to use this puller and mention NOTHING about heat whatsoever? whatever. Torch away bud

Originally posted by bzoss
I agree that would not damage them. Not everyone has that tool though. I didn't look to see who it was exactly mocking my suggestion

That would be me....

Originally posted by bzoss
....but I didn't appreciate the ridicule for suggesting heating the pulley.

Ridicule? No, more like emphasis of importance.

Originally posted by bzossIf the guy is using a puller with that much difficulty, he needs to heat the pulley. Enough said.

No, much more needs to be said about using a torch in that area


With the emphasis on "must" you were indicating that it should always be done this way. On the contrary, heat should be used only as a last resort in pulling off this pulley.

Besides the fact that there should be no need to heat this pulley up to get it off (unless there are extreme extenuating circumstances - again as a last resort), there are other more important (read that as dangerous) reasons not to put a torch in there. Look right behind the pulley and you will see plastics. Plastics are afraid of torches. It does not take much of an error by someone not adept in using a torch to set their engine plastics on fire (I have seen two people do just that. Hey, it was Honda's they were working on, what did I care if they burnt their cars down? lol). Also behind that is your timing belt, again, they are not fond of flame. Behind that is the crank seal, more rubber that doesn't like flame.

Now you may say you're not talking about using a torch. You are talking about using a heat gun. Well the problem with that is that the amount of heat needed to heat up that pulley can also ruin the crank seal or even melt the plastics. Also, the heat gun needed would have to be called a specialized tool that would probably cost more than the pulley puller (plus you can normally get the puller from a parts store for free use if you buy their parts).

Again, my original post was not for the intention of mocking or ridiculing you (ok, maybe a little elbow to the ribs ;-)), as most here know, that's not my style. It was more for emphasis of what is needed to remove the pulley.

I just had to pull mine off yesterday. I've done it with the small 3-jaw before, modified with a steel rod and a small socket on the end of the puller bolt. Rented the Chrysler one for this round though, came off in like 20 seconds, piece of cake.

Heating the crank pulley is a very bad idea. The factory Crank pulley is a harmonic ballencer and is actually two pieces held together by a composite rubber ring. Heating the pulley 100's of degrees hotter than operating temperature will result is damage to that ring. You may not see it but its there. Eventually that ring can fair and send the outer portion of the pulley in any direction including up.

There is a reason your not supposed to heat the pulley, its not becuase the chiltons is dumb and your smart.

what year models came with the balancer? I have a new pulley, but never recall having any type of balancer. Perhaps this is wherein our differences lie.
Do all the 2gnt's have balancer's from the factory?

Could not find a 2.0 pulley lying around but here is a 2.4. Same design.

I cannot speak for Terry, but I think he meant crank pulley as opposed to harmonic balancer.

The rubber ring referred to:

Originally posted by CODE4
Could not find a 2.0 pulley lying around but here is a 2.4. Same design. I cannot speak for Terry, but I think he meant crank pulley as opposed to harmonic balancer. The rubber ring referred to:

The factory crank pulley IS a harmonic dampner/balencer. This is also why some people arguel underdrive pulleys are bad for our cars since they are NOT harmonic ballencers. I cannot say i have ever seen premature wear on bearings due to them.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
The factory crank pulley IS a harmonic dampner/balencer. This is also why some people arguel underdrive pulleys are bad for our cars since they are NOT harmonic ballencers. I cannot say i have ever seen premature wear on bearings due to them.

I stand corrected ;)

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Heating the crank pulley is a very bad idea. The factory Crank pulley is a harmonic ballencer and is actually two pieces held together by a composite rubber ring.

Damn, that's right Terry, I forgot all about that ring also.

And yes, they all have them.